The wait begins

[dmoua]

Maybe you're already doing this, but when using the stripped bolt method I also like to pull the ejector out as well so there is nothing putting any kind resistance on the bolt.  Then I size my brass till the bolt handle will nearly fall closed on its own weight.

The ejector is still in the bolt. I'll have to look up videos how to remove that.

please don't. Its real easy to tweek them.  If you can, compare some body measurements between fired and sized to see if the die is actually doing anything. I avoid loading threads like the plague because its normally sloppy practices that are to blame and people don't like hearing that but your measurements are where a fired piece should be and if in fact you're bumping them back to .736ish and they won't chamber then then im guessing its a case body issue. Your pressure issues are weird as well because you shouldn't be hitting pressure till well north of 70gr with those 185's.

I'm going to load up some more test loads to shoot so that I can measure a fired body size to one that's been fl resized as you recommended. I'm willing to admit if it's my own sloppy reloading skills but at this point I don't really know what to blame.

The pressure issue I'm assuming is probably caused by the brass not being sized correctly like b23 mentioned before as I agree I shouldn't be seeing pressure signs so low in the powder charge weight.

[dmoua]

[Karl Blanchard]

I'm definitely not saying its you. I was just acknowledging why I seldom participate in these threads but your fired cases seem normal from a chamber aspect.  It sounds like you have had multiple 300 WSM rifles and issues with all of them and all with the same die. Seeing a pattern yet?

[dmoua]

I'm definitely not saying its you. I was just acknowledging why I seldom participate in these threads but your fired cases seem normal from a chamber aspect.  It sounds like you have had multiple 300 WSM rifles and issues with all of them and all with the same die. Seeing a pattern yet?

Yes reason why I went and purchased a new one just to see if that was the issue. Maybe the RCBS dies just suck? Hopefully I can return this one and order a Redding die set like you suggested. I use this die for my old man's Browning 300 WSM with no issues. At this point I'm kind of at a loss. 

[2MANY]

Karl you need to watch your mouth.
LOL

[b23]

Based on watching you close the bolt on a piece of brass it almost seems like you have a tight extractor because it seems like your resistance is coming in the very first part of you closing the bolt and the extractor is snapping over the rim.  You do it kind of fast so it's hard to tell but it almost looks as though once the extractor snaps over the rim there isn't really much resistance, it's just that initial part of closing the bolt where you have the greatest amount of issue.

[dmoua]

Based on watching you close the bolt on a piece of brass it almost seems like you have a tight extractor because it seems like your resistance is coming in the very first part of you closing the bolt and the extractor is snapping over the rim.  You do it kind of fast so it's hard to tell but it almost looks as though once the extractor snaps over the rim there isn't really much resistance, it's just that initial part of closing the bolt where you have the greatest amount of issue.

You might be onto something. It is only happening when I first start to close the bolt. Once I get over that little lump it's actually really smooth.

[BULLBLASTER]

Can you manually put tue brass inside the extractor and push it against the ejector and close the bolt? See how it feels then?

If it was a case geometry issue you could color the whole case with a sharpie and them chamber it to see where it hits.

[dmoua]

Here's a slower video.

[Stein]

I'm definitely not saying its you. I was just acknowledging why I seldom participate in these threads but your fired cases seem normal from a chamber aspect.  It sounds like you have had multiple 300 WSM rifles and issues with all of them and all with the same die. Seeing a pattern yet?

Yes reason why I went and purchased a new one just to see if that was the issue. Maybe the RCBS dies just suck? Hopefully I can return this one and order a Redding die set like you suggested. I use this die for my old man's Browning 300 WSM with no issues. At this point I'm kind of at a loss. 

Redding type S are pretty much at the top of the list for a bunch of people that are competing and winning in F class, so I figured they should be good enough for me.  I've only had mine for a couple weeks now, but just got back from another range trip and am completely satisfied.  The only thing is you have to buy the bushings and they are brand specific to brass and if you don't get it right you have to order another one and wait instead of just adjusting something.  Fortunately, I think I got it right first try.

[dmoua]

Can you manually put tue brass inside the extractor and push it against the ejector and close the bolt? See how it feels then?

If it was a case geometry issue you could color the whole case with a sharpie and them chamber it to see where it hits.

Good idea I’ll have to try that.

[b23]

Sure seems like once you get past the extractor there is little to no resistance so I'm strongly leaning toward the extractor causing your grief, at least with regard to bolt closure.

[BULLBLASTER]

Sure seems like once you get past the extractor there is little to no resistance so I'm strongly leaning toward the extractor causing your grief, at least with regard to bolt closure.

One of my custom actions has an extractor that takes a bit of force to snap over the rim.

[b23]

Not to get into any kind of extractor debate as to which type is best or that you even need to change what you have, but if you ever wanted to upgrade the extractor I'd recommend going with a M16 type extractor over any of the others.  IMO, the pinned extractors like the M16 type are the best largely because they are pinned.

[dmoua]

Not to get into any kind of extractor debate as to which type is best or that you even need to change what you have, but if you ever wanted to upgrade the extractor I'd recommend going with a M16 type extractor over any of the others.  IMO, the pinned extractors like the M16 type are the best largely because they are pinned.

Shawn mentioned about the M16 extractor. I didn’t really think I needed it at the time so I opted out. Maybe in the future I’ll get it done.

But back on topic about a tight extractor, I took a picture of my bolt face earlier and noticed a lot of brass shavings.