Old Bear Take down Recurve Bow

[Dakota Dogman]

Short part of the story... I have inherited a older Bear take down recurve bow.  While it comes from an important uncle, I have other more sentimental acusitions of his  that mean a lot more to me.

The other day I was talking to a guy & he suggested that old bow could be worth something.  I'm not an archery guy, not against, just never had the time / aquired the knack.  Don't need to get rid of it, but if it could sponser a different / more used toy... who knows?

So what I am wondering is a) if the guy knew what he was talking about... is it worth something?  b) if so... what price range are we talking about?  c) if A & B then C = what is the best way to go about selling off a 30 year old (??) bow?

I'm going to try to post a couple of pictures of it.
I know I'm going to need to answer some questions, but I don't know enough to even know what the right questions are...

Like I said, It is a Bear Recurve, takedown model; fiberglass arms; the arms seem to lock in; no wood on it that I can see; 50 lb range ?? that's a guess, sure feel it when I lock back with it; oh, it was set up for archery fishing originally, and I think I still have a green "reel" for the front of it & the fishing arrow ...

Thanks for any wisdom / direction you can give me.

God bless, Matt s

[STIKNSTRINGBOW]

I cannot really see the latches, or where the limbs meet the riser, but...
I am pretty sure that is a Bear "Minuteman", looks kind of like a 76er, but limbs are slightly different.
76er, they slide in, on a minuteman, they latch.
Not very likely that it is a 50#, most of those are under 40#, It should say on the limbs somewhere.
Unfortunately they sell for under $100 usually, if it is 50# you might get more.
I have a 45# 76er that I like to play with.

[Ratdog68]

A couple of things you want to look for while looking the bow over is.  BTW... I'm sure you're aware of some of these... but for safety's sake... worth as a reminder to all of us.

Is there any "limb twist" evident?  If you do not use a bow stringer to string the bow (with recurves in particular) it's easy to torque the limb and to put some twist into it.  After stringing the bow, look to see if the string sits centered at the limbs' ends... if not, then the twist needs to be corrected before the bow is test shot.  IF a twist is present and is NOT addressed, the string "can" come off the limb tip at a very bad time (while being drawn).  Another way this can happen is.. if the bow is stored by standing it in a corner instead of being hung, or laid flat. 

If the bow hasn't been shot for a while... go easy as you go to string it the first time... exercise the limbs gradually a few times before you set the string... and continue to exercise the limbs before taking it to full draw.

How has the bow been stored?  If a laminated bow is stored in a manner in which excess heat exists, the glue used to laminate the limbs can be compromised.  You do NOT let a bow sit in a hot car.

An archery shop can help you to determine the poundage of the bow (if it's not listed on the bow).  Be sure the arrows you shoot from it are intended for the poundage of the bow.  (In other words... if the kids have a starter bow kit, don't just grab one of those arrows and test fire the adult bow from full draw.

So long as the above doesn't apply... the bow should be just fine after all these years and should bring you lots of enjoyment. 

I'm trying to recall... did Bear put some markings on the riser, or on the limbs to advise which type of take down bow it is?  If so... post up what those markings are... it can help to determine a little more about the bow. 

Check the string over well and make sure it's not frayed... also... has it been stored in the open (by a window) where UV light might degrade the string?  Just things to rule out.

[BLKBEARKLR]

I have 3 of them, they are not worth hardly anything. They are a fun bow to go out there and plink around with.

You will probably only get 75.00 for it.