What do you think of this boat "2cents welcome"

[jackelope]

FWIW though if you are not planning on doing a lot of shallow water fishing you should look at some fiberglass boats, the bad thing about an aluminum boat is that it will pound like a bitch in even fairly small waves. I have a small aluminum boat and I know all about the pounding, in 2-3 foot waves it will pound just trolling...A glass boat will cut through waves where the aluminum will float over the top like a cork and *WHAM* down on the other side.

Wouldn't it have more to do with the degree of the hull than what it's constructed of? I'd personally prefer to run aluminum in shallow water. If you hit something hard enough it will poke a hole in fiberglass rather than dent aluminum.

[BigD]

I was gonna comment on that, yea degree of dead rise, more degree of deadrise (angle) makes it slice the waves much better.
With that being said that boat looks like a good deal to me for that price. I would be a little concerned with room but since it's family on board should be cozy. Are the spectra boats welded or riveted? Any one know?

[BigD]

Can you run a powerboat on the Deschutes?

I have read you can but the days are limited and i think you have to get a permit.  They do this so the motor boats are not on the river the same days the rafters are there. You wuld need a jet.

[FC]

Wouldn't it have more to do with the degree of the hull than what it's constructed of? I'd personally prefer to run aluminum in shallow water. If you hit something hard enough it will poke a hole in fiberglass rather than dent aluminum.

No it has more to do with the weight of a glass hull, the construction differs accordingly and that also helps. In shallow water I also prefer aluminum and for the same reason.

[BigD]

http://www.typhoonboats.com.au/Boat%20design.htm

That is correct on the weight of the fiberglass boat, but the weight is why a fiberglass boat has more degrees of dead rise than an aluminum boat. A heavier boat sits farther in the water which allows the chines to sit in the water, aluminum being lighter sits higher in the water so if you had the same deadrise the chines would be out of the water,  making the aluminum boat tip back and forth. If you had two identical boats one fiberglass and one aluminum and they were the same weight they would run the same.

[Rick]

http://www.typhoonboats.com.au/Boat%20design.htm

That is correct on the weight of the fiberglass boat, but the weight is why a fiberglass boat has more degrees of dead rise than an aluminum boat. A heavier boat sits farther in the water which allows the chines to sit in the water, aluminum being lighter sits higher in the water so if you had the same deadrise the chines would be out of the water,  making the aluminum boat tip back and forth. If you had two identical boats one fiberglass and one aluminum and they were the same weight they would run the same.

What a boat weighs has NOTHING to do with deadrise. Deadrise is the amount of "vee" a boat has on the bottom. You could have a 7000lb glass boat with 10° of deadrise or you could have a 7000lb aluminum boat with 20° of deadrise. Deadrise is based on what the boat is designed for,not just what its made out of,or what it weighs.

More deadrise generally means a better ride in the slop,but with more deadrise you sacrifice stability at rest. Flatbottom boats with 0° of deadrise are the most stable,but of course are the worst riding.

Where the helm is,also plays a part in how a boat rides. A forward cabin boat like a pilot house will ride rougher than a walk around where the helm is further back towards the stern.

[Rick]

the bad thing about an aluminum boat is that it will pound like a bitch in even fairly small waves.

Nonsense. If you buy the CORRECT aluminum boat for the application they can ride just as nice as a glass boat. You wouldn't buy an Alumaweld sled with a 6° bottom and expect it to ride well in the sound. You also wouldn't buy a Northriver Offshore and expect to run it at Blue Creek.

[jackelope]

the bad thing about an aluminum boat is that it will pound like a bitch in even fairly small waves.

Nonsense. If you buy the CORRECT aluminum boat for the application they can ride just as nice as a glass boat. You wouldn't buy an Alumaweld sled with a 6° bottom and expect it to ride well in the sound. You also wouldn't buy a Northriver Offshore and expect to run it at Blue Creek.

Kinda what I was getting at, bit I also got to admit I misread what FC said the 1st time around.

[cohoho]

http://www.typhoonboats.com.au/Boat%20design.htm

What a boat weighs has NOTHING to do with deadrise. Deadrise is the amount of "vee" a boat has on the bottom. You could have a 7000lb glass boat with 10° of deadrise or you could have a 7000lb aluminum boat with 20° of deadrise. Deadrise is based on what the boat is designed for,not just what its made out of,or what it weighs.
More deadrise generally means a better ride in the slop,but with more deadrise you sacrifice stability at rest. Flatbottom boats with 0° of deadrise are the most stable,but of course are the worst riding.
Where the helm is,also plays a part in how a boat rides. A forward cabin boat like a pilot house will ride rougher than a walk around where the helm is further back towards the stern.

I wish weight was the answer to smooth riding....  If that was the case I would run my heavy alum out to tuna lands, as it should ride like a caddy....   Nothing what so ever from the fact...  As stated above is the deadrise for the ride and the degree of approach angle to cut gnarly waves... 

[FC]

the bad thing about an aluminum boat is that it will pound like a bitch in even fairly small waves.

Nonsense. If you buy the CORRECT aluminum boat for the application they can ride just as nice as a glass boat. You wouldn't buy an Alumaweld sled with a 6° bottom and expect it to ride well in the sound. You also wouldn't buy a Northriver Offshore and expect to run it at Blue Creek.

I'm sorry but I beg to differ on this one, aluminum boats are nice from a maintenance standpoint but they just don't ride the same compared as a glass boat, they are just too light and ride too much higher in the water. Can you imagine a 16.5' aluminum with 20 degree rise? You would have to pour a ton of lead in it's belly to hold it upright on the water. Aluminum boats are great but it's not very efficient material to make a rough water boat out of.

The guy a couple posts up gave a bit more info then I did about the difference in design and weight required to keep the chine in the water on glass and aluminum boats and it's very true.

[carpsniperg2]

  man i am lost now i think i am going to pass and save my pennies for a little bigger boat i already have a "lake boat" in my bass boat/bowfishing boat.

He's about ready to experience one of them for himself, plus help the seller experience his..... 

and i have no idea what you guys are talking about maybe when he gets one and gets rid of it i love my boat i have now but not for what i am looking for

[cohoho]

FC- I think there is the comparison of apples to oranges, heck yea a big old heavy 26 Defiance Off Shore or BAMF (my dream Ocean Boat) model will ride much better than a 26 Hewes craft or another bigger alum boat, the hulls are completely different and designed for OFF SHORE only with extremely huge amount of deadrise and exterior shape...   But your not going to run that Defiance up to a a shore line and park it there like you would and could with a big alum boat.  Now take your basic lesser fiberglass boat, Bayliner Trophy,  etc..  and comparing that to a Pilot House Wooldridge, 26 North River or a 26 Hewes Alaskan and that fiberglass cheaper made boat is going to lose everytime....  They are probably the same weight as their building process is way cheaper than the top quality boats, and your getting a .250 bottom that is darn near bullet proof...  Now when you start comparing boats - dollar for dollar, the Alum is going to win out, the low end model fiberglass rides like crap and are NOT designed to take a beaten like fiberglass Defiance, BAMF, Osprey, etc...  But then your talking 120K boats for starters.  But in the end, the boat above in question is strictly for inland NOT off shore at all and is a good all purpose boat...  Does alot of stuff good but nothing great.....  Just like 90% of the multi purpose boats running the Columbia.......  In AK, a huge number of guides run nothing but big Alum boats for the durability and they run in some of the roughest water anywhere taken clients out everyday....  In reality- I need atleast two maybe three- A 22 foot North River Sea Hawk with 250hp prop outboard (for Sturgeon on the Columbia, Chelan hunting and water skiing), a 17 foot Wooldridge with 90 jet (for skinny water) and a big ocean 26 BAMF boat (for chasing TUNA...)  Or is that me??? Lottery, Lottery, Lottery.........

[BigD]

man i am lost now i think i am going to pass and save my pennies for a little bigger boat i already have a "lake boat" in my bass boat/bowfishing boat.



I would still by that boat, for what you said you would use it for it will work fine.
Just to add a bit, all I was trying to point out is the fact that with a heavier boat you can add more dead rise, degrees of angle, what ever you want to call it, and it will ride beter in in bigger water. Plain as that, I not talking about cabins, pilot houses, inboard, outboard or anything like that. More weight and more dead rise can be added.

[FC]

It's interesting to read the varying opinions on boats and not to hard to see that most here prefer aluminum boats (I have an aluminum boat too) but I got curious enough to go looking for specs. The weight on a glass boat type for type and roughly foot for foot comes out with the glass boat weighing double, the reason almost any glass boat rides better than the aluminum boats (matched to what you are using them for) is simply weight, it takes more energy to divert (lift) a 6,000lb boat cutting through a wave then a 3,000lb boat, if the boat doesn't lift going through the wave it doesn't pound when it comes down on the other side.

http://www.hewescraft.com/2007/docs/perf_bulletins/240_alaskan-yamaha_225_030403.pdf

http://www.bayliner.com/get/id/85

Two very closely matched boats by type and length, hewes lists no price but the wooldridge alaskan 26' was 48k with no motor so we can guess...

When you get down to the smaller more general purpose type boats such as the one that carpsniperg2 was originally looking at you are talking about an aluminum boat that weighs maybe 1000-1200lbs where a glass boat of similar size would weigh 2000-2400lbs, not hard to figure out which one will ride better. Neither of them would ride great but the glass boat will have it all over the aluminum boat. Will you be able to beach the glass boat without damage? No probably not but I have only ever seen two aluminum boats beached and one of them was mine. Most guys seem afraid to scratch them...lol

Here are a couple more examples, an 18' hewes aluminum weighing in at a porky 1100lbs vs that cheapo bayliner at 2285lbs....

http://www.hewescraft.com/2007/docs/perf_bulletins/180_open_fisherman-yamaha_60.pdf

http://www.hewescraft.com/2007/docs/perf_bulletins/160_sportsman-yam%20115_jet_071901.pdf Yuck! Only 1350lbs with motor!

http://www.bayliner.com/get/id/75

That weight thing that some seem to think doesn't matter really is just simple physics, a body in motion tends to stay in motion and the heavier it is the harder it becomes to stop it or alter it's course. The example here is a 1000lb boat and a 2000lb boat going over the same 3-4 ft wave with a similar deadrise, which one rides higher and then pounds harder on the other side?

[alanger]

Carp heres another like it. a year older but a foot and a half bigger. http://spokane.craigslist.org/boa/1881398470.html for 300$$ less.