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Author Topic: reloading questions  (Read 6044 times)

Offline bearpaw

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Re: reloading questions
« Reply #15 on: February 18, 2011, 05:43:55 PM »
We have never had a problem with our Rockchucker, seems to work well, if you get the kit, it will have most things you need.
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Offline sakoshooter

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Re: reloading questions
« Reply #16 on: February 18, 2011, 10:57:43 PM »
I"ll second or third the RCBS Kit. Been using RCBS for 30 years without a hitch.

I'll also second or third "Read The Manual" thoroughly.
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Offline BIGINNER

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Re: reloading questions
« Reply #17 on: February 19, 2011, 09:27:24 AM »
wow.  Thanks guys.  I will pm you guy later. I am on the west side right now. As for a mentor... Well I don't really have anyone.  But iwill read_ and read more _ and read and read.  And you guys seem like pretty good mentors.   :drool: :chuckle:

Offline quadrafire

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Re: reloading questions
« Reply #18 on: February 22, 2011, 04:46:34 PM »
Look for the book ABC's of reloading. Very informative.

Offline BIGINNER

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Re: reloading questions
« Reply #19 on: February 23, 2011, 01:13:01 PM »
i was just at wholessales sports during lunch, and i found a book tittle "all you need to know abour reloading 25-06 rem"  (or something along that line)

looked like a good book to start with,  also,  is there any reloading books that talk about reloading specificly for my make and model of rifle, or is it the same basic info for most rifles, (barell twistd,.. ect..) ? 

Offline docsven

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Re: reloading questions
« Reply #20 on: February 23, 2011, 01:59:19 PM »
If your rifle is older, check the CUP pressure tolerance posted by maker and cross check that with load data in your manual so that you are not exceeding it.  Most manuals take that into account when they publish a max load.  Do a lot of reading first and start with starting loads and you should be fine, but get the other tools mentioned, like calipers and case trimmer.  Inspect your brass, go slow and be careful.

Offline BIGINNER

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Re: reloading questions
« Reply #21 on: February 23, 2011, 02:09:55 PM »
If your rifle is older, check the CUP pressure tolerance posted by maker and cross check that with load data in your manual so that you are not exceeding it.  Most manuals take that into account when they publish a max load.  Do a lot of reading first and start with starting loads and you should be fine, but get the other tools mentioned, like calipers and case trimmer.  Inspect your brass, go slow and be careful.
my rifle in brand new, i haven't even fired it yet...lol  but where would i find the CUP pressure tolerance? owners manual?  :dunno:

and ya, i am shopping for books right now, i'll do lots of reading, this kind of stuff scares me too much for me to do something stupid, and i definately take every safety step and beyond necisary

Offline GUHunter

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Re: reloading questions
« Reply #22 on: February 23, 2011, 03:08:02 PM »
If your rifle is new, you should be fine by sticking to book data. Start near the lower end of the range for a given powder type and bullet weight and work up, watching for pressure signs as you go. Your rifle will eventually tell you what a max load is in that rifle. Keep in mind that there are many things that affect this. If you find your rifle's max load now and then shoot the same ammo in july, you may see dangerously high pressures. Higher temperatures increase pressure. This is just one reason that knocking on the door of max loads is not necessarily ideal.   
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Offline BIGINNER

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Re: reloading questions
« Reply #23 on: February 23, 2011, 03:14:09 PM »
If your rifle is new, you should be fine by sticking to book data. Start near the lower end of the range for a given powder type and bullet weight and work up, watching for pressure signs as you go. Your rifle will eventually tell you what a max load is in that rifle. Keep in mind that there are many things that affect this. If you find your rifle's max load now and then shoot the same ammo in july, you may see dangerously high pressures. Higher temperatures increase pressure. This is just one reason that knocking on the door of max loads is not necessarily ideal.   

ya,  i agree with you,  and i would be scared, (and smarter) than to try abything above max pressure,  i would be scared to be neer the max pressure,  i just want to try loading for accuracy, and try smaller grain bullet without having to pay $50 for a box of 20.


also it seams like a fun hobbie to have  :) 

uno mass qvestion.

i havesn't really looked at alot of reloading recepts yet, but do they usually have the psi on the table? or do you just look for pressure sighns on the casing,

also,... what signs of pressure should i be looking for? bulges? ect..?

Offline wildmanoutdoors

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Re: reloading questions
« Reply #24 on: February 23, 2011, 03:42:08 PM »
Shells hard to extract, flattened primers, split cases...

Offline bobcat

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Re: reloading questions
« Reply #25 on: February 23, 2011, 03:49:48 PM »
Most of the newer books are pretty conservative on what they show for max charges, so you should be safe going all the way to max. Of course you always want to watch for pressure signs as wildman stated but in most cases you should be able to get to the max book powder charge if you're using identical components (primers, cases, bullet). It's pretty hard to get yourself in serious trouble if you're loading a cartridge like the 25-06 and if you're using one of the slowest powders, which are also the ones that will provide maximum velocities. As an example, with my 270 Win (very similar to your 25-06) I use H4831 and generally about 58 grains with 150 grain bullets. This charge fills up the case and I don't think I could get more than maybe 60 grains in the case and still be able to seat the bullet. If I did mistakenly get 60 grains in there I am sure it wouldn't be enough to cause any real problems. So there's really no need to worry about "blowing up your gun" or anything like that. Now if you were loading pistol cartridges and using the fast powders that generally work in them, you could easily get a double charge, which probably would blow up the gun. But for just loading your 25-06, don't sweat it too much.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2011, 04:20:35 PM by bobcat »

Offline BIGINNER

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Re: reloading questions
« Reply #26 on: February 23, 2011, 04:18:52 PM »
Most of the newer books are pretty conservative on what they show for max charges, so you should be safe going all the way to max. Of course you always want to watch for pressure signs as wildman stated but in most cases you should be able to get to the max book powder charge if you're using identical components (primers, cases, bullet). It's pretty hard to get yourself in serious trouble if you're loading a cartridge like the 25-06 and if you're using one of the slowest powders, which are also the ones that will provide maximum velocities. As an example, with my 270 Win (very similar to your 25-06) I use H4831 and generally about 58 grains with 150 grain bullets. This charge fills up the case and I don't think I could get more than maybe 60 grains in the case and still be able to seat the bullet. If I did mistakenly get 60 grains in there I am sure it wouldn't be enough to cause any real problems. So there's really no need to worry about "blowing up your gun" or anything like that. Now if you were loading pistol cartridges and using the fast powders that generally work in them, you could easily get a double charge, which probably would blow up the gun. But for just loading your 25-06, don't sweat it too much.

LOL  THATS IT YOU CONVINCED ME.. I'M GETTING A RELOADING SETUP..   :chuckle:  
« Last Edit: February 23, 2011, 04:21:00 PM by bobcat »

 


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