1992 F-150 U-Joint and wheel bearing replacement

[DoubleJ]

Looking for a kind soul that can come over, share a 6pk of beer, and help me change a U-Joint and a wheel bearing.  I have done a lot of vehicle work but these are 2 things I've never done and, quite frankly, I am a bit nervous.  I am going to grease up the U-Joints that are on there and hope that's enough but, I just think it needs replaced.  The wheel bearing I know needs replaced.  Not sure if these will need special tools or not but I think the wheel bearing will need a bearing press.  Is this even doable in my driveway?

Anyone that can come to Shelton for the afternoon on an upcoming weekend, it would be much appreciated.

[Button Nubbs]

Do you have bearings or whole hub assemblys? I just did hub assemblys and the only part that really sucked was getting all the bolts off. I used a whole can of pb blaster.

[DoubleJ]

Do you have bearings or whole hub assemblys? I just did hub assemblys and the only part that really sucked was getting all the bolts off. I used a whole can of pb blaster.

Not sure.  Would a picture help?  I can take the tire off tomorrow and take a pic

[shoot-em-dead]

You can do it. I have done both before in my driveway. Actually I did U joints in Shucks parking lot. lots of noise but they didn't stop me. I wish I was closer to give you a hand.

[Button Nubbs]

Looks like your gonna have to pull the bearing from the little bit of googleing I did. When I did my assemblys I just watched youtube vids about 35 times. You can do it, just go in confident that you can get the job done.

[sebek556]

front or rear wheel bearing to start with... then if it is front are they the factory hubs (usually auto hubs) or after market (usually will have the company name on it) u joints are easy have a socket handy that you don't like much that will fit into the shaft for ones that stick

[Heredoggydoggy]

Don't know about your library, but the library here has a big selection of Motor's Manuals, Chilton's, etc. that show and tell how to do that stuff on your vehicle.  U-joints and wheel bearings haven't changed much over the years, but some of the systems, 4x4 hubs, for instance, have a lot of parts to them.  Bearings are simple-it's the pressed in bearing races that are the hard part.  Some parts stores like NAPA will print out an exploded view of your job area.  Good luck.

[DoubleJ]

front or rear wheel bearing to start with... then if it is front are they the factory hubs (usually auto hubs) or after market (usually will have the company name on it) u joints are easy have a socket handy that you don't like much that will fit into the shaft for ones that stick

Rear wheel bearing

[DoubleJ]

I have a Chilton but, for the life of me I can't find the damned thing.  Again.    You'd think I'd learn to leave it in the truck

[sebek556]

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/906101-rear-wheel-bearing-installation.html
 

[Cascade_fisher]

King county library system lets you download the manuals online and print expanded views.  They seem to have most of the older stuff.

[Woodchuck]

front or rear wheel bearing to start with... then if it is front are they the factory hubs (usually auto hubs) or after market (usually will have the company name on it) u joints are easy have a socket handy that you don't like much that will fit into the shaft for ones that stick

Rear wheel bearing

That is a can of worms packed heavy with dynamite You should do both sides as it is common fluid all the way through. Need to inspect the axles and make sure the surface of the axle that touches the bearings isn't damaged. If so you need axles. Do not, I say again DO NOT buy those worthless repair bearings. Would also not hurt to roll the carrier out and check carrier bearings on the diff. Again it is all common fluid and debris from one bearing has nasty habit of hurting the rest.

[DoubleJ]

front or rear wheel bearing to start with... then if it is front are they the factory hubs (usually auto hubs) or after market (usually will have the company name on it) u joints are easy have a socket handy that you don't like much that will fit into the shaft for ones that stick

Rear wheel bearing

That is a can of worms packed heavy with dynamite You should do both sides as it is common fluid all the way through. Need to inspect the axles and make sure the surface of the axle that touches the bearings isn't damaged. If so you need axles. Do not, I say again DO NOT buy those worthless repair bearings. Would also not hurt to roll the carrier out and check carrier bearings on the diff. Again it is all common fluid and debris from one bearing has nasty habit of hurting the rest.

I think I just threw up a little.  Maybe I'll just stick my fingers in my ears and go "la la la la la la" like I didn't just hear all of that.

[Woodchuck]

Sorry man but this stuff is right up my alley and if you are not confident, this is not a good job to learn on. I am happy to help you over the internet all I can but it really can turn into a big deal pretty quick.

[jyerxa]

Looking for a kind soul that can come over, share a 6pk of beer, and help me change a U-Joint and a wheel bearing.  I have done a lot of vehicle work but these are 2 things I've never done and, quite frankly, I am a bit nervous.  I am going to grease up the U-Joints that are on there and hope that's enough but, I just think it needs replaced.  The wheel bearing I know needs replaced.  Not sure if these will need special tools or not but I think the wheel bearing will need a bearing press.  Is this even doable in my driveway?

Anyone that can come to Shelton for the afternoon on an upcoming weekend, it would be much appreciated.

You provide the six pack and I'll bring over a half rack and ten tons of advice.  We'll get'er done. 

Ah in all honesty I had an old ford that true U-joints ever two years. I got pissed off because I had it done by mechanics and said to myself "Self, you want anything done you got to do it yourself." Well that wasn't good enough ether. I took my drive shaft down to a drive shaft specialist place in Fife. They had a field day giving me a bunch of crap that I didn't know what the heck I was doing either. I was kind of like BS I knew exactly what I was doing when I thumped my truck about 5 years ago.

I sold that truck.

[DoubleJ]

OK, I just greased up the u-joints with the grease gun and it didn't do anything so, they need replaced.  Since I have the grease gun out, is there anywhere else on the truck that could use a pump or two?

[sebek556]

any grease fitting you can find under it  look around the front end, there are a few up there

[Heredoggydoggy]

By the time it sounds like something like U-joints need grease, it's too late.  Replace them and you won't have to worry about them for a long time.  Don't know about the 150, but most everything on my '91 Ranger was "lubed for life".  Never could figure out if they meant my life or the truck's life. 

[DoubleJ]

any grease fitting you can find under it  look around the front end, there are a few up there

I knew there'd be more.  Was hoping for specifics

[DoubleJ]

By the time it sounds like something like U-joints need grease, it's too late.  Replace them and you won't have to worry about them for a long time.  Don't know about the 150, but most everything on my '91 Ranger was "lubed for life".  Never could figure out if they meant my life or the truck's life. 

Yea, inheriting a great truck that was abused is rough.  I know what this truck could have been and what it is.  I'm trying to keep it going as best as I can.

[sebek556]

well darn it now my brain has to work.. look around your control arms, ball joints, front drive shaft if 4x4, control arm. umm sorry trying to recall where they all are from memory

[DoubleJ]

2 wheel drive

[sebek556]

ok front ball joints, upper control arms, easiest way jack it up and pull the tire, then look at the arms coming down from the frame, there is a ball joint right where they attach at the hub, should be a grease point there, and one in the same spot on the lower control arms.

[6x6in6]

la la la la la la believe what Woodchuck said to the letter la la la la la la
 

[Kowsrule30]

Tierod ends and wherever there is a zert fitting..... If you can't do the other things properly don't try.... You'll just piss yourself off.....

[DoubleJ]

I got 4 zert points on the front end.  The best part was when the grease chamber got full and black, oil like substance leaked out ahead of the new grease.  Literally oil color and viscosity.  Not grease.  Probably hasn't had a drop of grease since it left the showroom in 1992.

[DoubleJ]

la la la la la la believe what Woodchuck said to the letter la la la la la la
 

I know but, that sounds like it's going to be an arm and a leg if I take it to a shop and I'm not sure it's something I can handle.

[Button Nubbs]

Is it a daily driver? If not get a manual and take your time! If it pisses you off, walk away for a bit.

[DoubleJ]

Is it a daily driver? If not get a manual and take your time! If it pisses you off, walk away for a bit.

It is my daily driver

[Mark Brenckle]

Is it a daily driver? If not get a manual and take your time! If it pisses you off, walk away for a bit.

It is my daily driver

 Wish I was closer, I'd definitely help you out for a weekend in exchange for a couple crab!  Looks like you're into it for a weekend - clear your schedule and get going on it.  If you're somewhat mechanically inclined you'll be able to do it.  I've never had any formal mechanic training and I've done similar jobs.  Take Woodchucks advice and plan on doing the whole rear end.  Even if you have to get a bearing removed or pressed in, it's a lot cheaper to take them the axle housings and have them do it.
 Either that or go find the whole rear end at a junk yard, rebuild it on your own timeline and then put it in.
 Chiltons is your friend - they've never let me down.

[jyerxa]

any grease fitting you can find under it  look around the front end, there are a few up there

I knew there'd be more.  Was hoping for specifics

True noise is not a good thing. If you hear it is too late. Metal is burning up. The troublce with my old ford ranger was the fact I did thump it pretty hard a couple times. The alignment was just assque (sp?) enough that created an imbalance to the alignment and created a subtle vibration to the drive shaft that stressed the U-joints. Whew okay, U-joints are also like fuses made to be the week point on purpose.

Your grease gun is set to fit Zirk fittings. Crawl under your truck and look at all of the linkage and ball joints for the stearing. If it has a zirk fitting grease it.  Fords have about four I can think of.

[DoubleJ]

any grease fitting you can find under it  look around the front end, there are a few up there

I knew there'd be more.  Was hoping for specifics

True noise is not a good thing. If you hear it is too late. Metal is burning up. The troublce with my old ford ranger was the fact I did thump it pretty hard a couple times. The alignment was just assque (sp?) enough that created an imbalance to the alignment and created a subtle vibration to the drive shaft that stressed the U-joints. Whew okay, U-joints are also like fuses made to be the week point on purpose.

Your grease gun is set to fit Zirk fittings. Crawl under your truck and look at all of the linkage and ball joints for the stearing. If it has a zirk fitting grease it.  Fords have about four I can think of.

I found 4 without removing the wheels.  one near the wheel on the tie rod and then one at the top of the rocker arm from the steering gear and one where the rocker arm meets the tie rod

[jyerxa]

Very cool!!! I looked this up on youtube. But sounds like you got it! 

How To Use A Grease Gun To Lube A Chassis

[Heredoggydoggy]

Sometimes to save money, car companies didn't put zirks in the joints, but usually there is a plug where you can add one, and keep them greased.  if the joints were ever replaced, they either had zirks already or had them put in.  if you can't find parts for an older vehicle, go online to LMC Truck--I got a lot of parts from them to restore my '90 Bronco II. They won't be Ford parts, but sometimes they are as good or better.  A friend of mine priced a door gasket for his '83 pickup, and nearly choked at the price.  He got one from LMC for about half the cost!

[winshooter88]

On the rear end, if you drain the oil and it has a gray metallic color to it, then you need to have the rear end flushed at the very least. This also means that there is a good chance that that carrier and pinion bearing are damaged. If the oil is not gray metallic colored then you might get lucky. I don't know about the newer Fords, but the older Ford F-150 rear ends had sealed wheel bearing and wouldn't contaminate the rear differential fluid. Chevy C-K 10 (1/2 tons) had bearings that were lubed by the differential fluid and would contaminate the rear differential bearings. The U-joints aren't that hard to replace, just make sure that you remove the bearing cap retaining rings or clips before you try to push the old joint bearing caps out. Don't know if Ford ever did it , but Chevy actually used a injected plastic u-joint retainer system. Good Luck.