Looking for knifemaker to rehab a couple of knife blades

[quadrafire]

I have a couple of hunting knives I was looking to refurbish (to as good as new). One is a Puma white hunter, the other a Western (sentimental value). I have been buffing them w/ steel wool, but still pitted. I thought there was a knifemaker or two on here, but didn't see them in the sponsor section.
Give me a jingle if you can help out.
Thanks.

[Woodchuck]

Is Rainshadow still around?

[quadrafire]

His link on the sponsor page said rainshadow calls (wasn't sure if he did knives anymore), and the link did not connect. I'll try a PM later on.

[PlateauNDN]

His link on the sponsor page said rainshadow calls (wasn't sure if he did knives anymore), and the link did not connect. I'll try a PM later on.

You'll just have to enter his website manually because the link didn't auto connect for me either but it's up and running.  He's still doing knives and looking at the website and on here plus the reviews he does a very fine job with them and can't wait to use mine.

[h20hunter]

I was also going to mention Rainshadow. I have one knife from him and will be presenting to the future owner very soon.

[quadrafire]

WOW!!!
I just went to his site. NICE........  I'll give him a jingle. Thanks

[268bull]

If you have a grinder, buy a buffing wheel for it, along with a couple of sticks of buffing compound, buff out the spiderwebs yourself. But be very, very careful with the speed and applying the blade to the wheel. Otherwise , too many RPM's and you could catch the blade and end up sticking yourself or the knife goes through the freezer . Start out slowly and as you gain a feel for the process, with caution, slowly pick up the speed. You can do it!

[quadrafire]

Great idea 268. Thanks for the info 

[wraithen]

If you have a grinder, buy a buffing wheel for it, along with a couple of sticks of buffing compound, buff out the spiderwebs yourself. But be very, very careful with the speed and applying the blade to the wheel. Otherwise , too many RPM's and you could catch the blade and end up sticking yourself or the knife goes through the freezer . Start out slowly and as you gain a feel for the process, with caution, slowly pick up the speed. You can do it!

Care to share what sounds like a hilarious story? 

[268bull]

I didn't have the knife stick in me, thank goodness, but I did have way too many RPM's, too much pressure on the knife against the wheel, and the knife caught and went sailing and penetrated the freezer. I learned a whole lot in that nano-second. Like, stand to the side of the grinder when buffing, start the process slowly and pay strict attention to the top of the blade, so as to not let the buffing wheel catch it and knock the knife hurling out of your hands ( Use a 2 handed grip also ). You can add  pressure on the knife as you gain a feel for the process, but don't start gangbuster's like and let the knife be caught from applying to much pressure. Once the knife flings out out your hands and is protruding from your gut, the party's kinda over! One more thinf to keep in mind, The pitting may be such that to attempt to remove it completely, you main actually remove more metal in the process and render the blades value ( intrinsic or moneywise ). I don't by any means intend to scare you off from attemting to do this, you can! And a valuable skill learned by doing so, just some trial and error I expierenced along the way. Let me know how it turned out. Bull

[268bull]

One other thing I should tell you, I have a couple of bench grinder's. The one I use came from Harbor Freight, is a variable spd. ( 0- 10,000 rpms ), however a fixed speed will do the same job. JUST APPLY the KNIFE slowly and cautiously to the buffing wheel, till you beging to feel what's working for you. Good buffing! Bull

[268bull]

Sorry to keep taking up space, but my old mind remembers these after I post the previous ones. When you approach the buffing wheel with the knife, make sure the edge of the blade is down, Less inclined to catch the knife and knock it out of your hands. Also, when moving the blade across the wheel, do so at an angle as you approach the tip of the blade the tip, of course angled downward with light pressure on the balde against the wheel. OK,. No more afterthought's. I'll hush up. Remember though, you can do this. Bull

[268bull]

I know, I promised. You say that your working on the knives with steel wool. I take my knives, when bringing them back to life, and I apply a good liberal coat of Break-Free CLP on the blade's, and if it's a folder, down inside the knife, on the spacer's and spring's. I then put them in an old skillet, which I have designated for knife work, and let them sit for a couple of day's. After that, leaving the Break-Free still on the blade, I take a razor scraper and lightly apply pressure and take any surface rust, moving in one direction only. Not back and forth. I'm not adding to any . That way, I'm not adding any new scratching. Takes a lot of rust off, but still leaves the patina. Makes for less work on the wheel. Take a paper shop towel and wipe it clean. See how that work's for you. Bull (Try avoid using the steel wool, use 600 or 800 emory cloth soaked with Break-Free instead with a light touch.)

[quadrafire]

 

I do have a freezer across the garage from the grinder, I'll be very careful   

[268bull]

You can do it! I feel sure you can. Just be careful. Bull