AR-15 free float handguard.

[jackelope]

No way...another thread gone sideways...weird.
 

[Biggerhammer]

Funny how that happens whenever I make a post??  Apologies to the OP.

If you look through your post history, it's you following me. I'll let you play the victim. 

[jackelope]

Funny how that happens whenever I make a post??  Apologies to the OP.

If you look through your post history, it's you following me. I'll let you play the victim. 

Why don't both of you put your personal opinions of each other aside and quit ruining peoples' threads. Its getting ridiculous.

[bearpaw]

Why don't both of you put your personal opinions of each other aside and quit ruining peoples' threads. Its getting ridiculous.

http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php/topic,112660.15.html


Consider this an official warning to avoid each other, we are getting tired of unnecessary comments!

[jaymark6655]

I want a free float quadrail for my DPMS carbine. I know I need the 7" one but what else is needed to put it on ? Thanks Allen

Back to the original topic.

What type of gas block is up front?  Is the rail going to cover it, is there a front sight in the way?  Just some things to consider.

I think almost all free floats come with a special barrel nut of some sort, the normal spring loaded D-ring that normally holds standard handguards in place will no longer work.  If you have a front sight post, it will need to be removed so the tube can slide over the barrel and it might be in the way of the tube depending on what length you get.  Since this part is aligned with the gas port and then a spot for the pin is drilled, changing gas blocks can be a pain and I was told once it would be better to start with a whole new barrel/block combo or cut the front sight off and leave the gas portion of it in place.

[Biggerhammer]

It is simple to drift the pins out of a standard factory front sight post. Most quality gas blocks, low profile or railed come with one or two set screws on the bottom of the block and pins are not needed once the original pins from the factory sight post are removed.

[jaymark6655]

It is simple to drift the pins out of a standard factory front sight post. Most quality gas blocks, low profile or railed come with one or two set screws on the bottom of the block and pins are not needed once the original pins from the factory sigh post are removed.

  I forgot about those.

[Biggerhammer]

One thing to rememeber when your drifting out the pins on a front sight post, the pins are tapered, make sure your drifting them the right way, towards the largest side. In other words, beat on the small end. I place it on a stout wood block with a heavy duty piece of carpet between the sight/barrel combo and the wood block.

[Huntbear]

Here is what I have always used as a gunsmith for driving pins out...

Get yourself a Hockey puck or two..  drill 5 or 6 different sized holes in the puck.. line up the pin with a hole in the puck when driving it out,, NO DAMAGE WHATSOEVER to the finish on the firearm.  Pin is captured into the hole of the puck.  Done deal.

Easy Smeazy Lemon Squeezy...   

I have 4 or 5, of various configurations always around.

[Heredoggydoggy]

Here is what I have always used as a gunsmith for driving pins out...

Get yourself a Hockey puck or two..  drill 5 or 6 different sized holes in the puck.. line up the pin with a hole in the puck when driving it out,, NO DAMAGE WHATSOEVER to the finish on the firearm.  Pin is captured into the hole of the puck.  Done deal.

Easy Smeazy Lemon Squeezy...   

I have 4 or 5, of various configurations always around.

There is a specific block made for this, that the barrel and sight lays in.  One side says "Out", and the other side says "In".  You can't go wrong that way. 

[mountainman]

Here is what I have always used as a gunsmith for driving pins out...

Get yourself a Hockey puck or two..  drill 5 or 6 different sized holes in the puck.. line up the pin with a hole in the puck when driving it out,, NO DAMAGE WHATSOEVER to the finish on the firearm.  Pin is captured into the hole of the puck.  Done deal.

Easy Smeazy Lemon Squeezy...   

I have 4 or 5, of various configurations always around.

There is a specific block made for this, that the barrel and sight lays in.  One side says "Out", and the other side says "In".  You can't go wrong that way. 

[Jim the Plumber]

If you want the best, get a Seekins rail.
http://www.seekinsprecision.com/quad-rails-hand-guards.html

[huntandjeep]

I want a free float quadrail for my DPMS carbine. I know I need the 7" one but what else is needed to put it on ? Thanks Allen

Back to the original topic.

What type of gas block is up front?  Is the rail going to cover it, is there a front sight in the way?  Just some things to consider.

I think almost all free floats come with a special barrel nut of some sort, the normal spring loaded D-ring that normally holds standard handguards in place will no longer work.  If you have a front sight post, it will need to be removed so the tube can slide over the barrel and it might be in the way of the tube depending on what length you get.  Since this part is aligned with the gas port and then a spot for the pin is drilled, changing gas blocks can be a pain and I was told once it would be better to start with a whole new barrel/block combo or cut the front sight off and leave the gas portion of it in place.

         There is no sight on the block, just a rail on the top. Not going to cover it either. Just thinking about getting rid of the original hand guard for something more Tacticool 

[Heredoggydoggy]

YHM makes a free-float handguard that is slotted to go around a military style sight/gas block.  You may need a handguard like that if you don't want to change to a Low Profile gas block, and want a longer handguard.  With a Low Profile gas block, you could even put a Rifle-length handguard on, and hide the gas block completely.  (Looks cool, too!) 

[Blacklab]

Most quality rails come with their own barrel nut and mounting hardware. More often than not, they also come with the Allen wrench or tool to install.

MidWest Indusrties does quality rails for a good price. I have used them on basic AR builds. They are stout, made well and don't break the bank.

http://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=149

Damn near broke it since I bought two........lol