Author Topic: Fleshing & Stretching (Read 12018 times)

Carp Commander · « **on:** January 13, 2013, 06:30:22 PM »

Apparently fleshing and boarding is not like riding a bike. After all it's only been twenty years! I found myself trying to take way to much off the muskrats. I had forgotten how thin the hide is with out the saddle. The male mink seemed exceptionally greasy so I worked the saddle off of it.

I posted the following photos hoping for any suggestions and comments on improving the product.

Thanks

Doug

Carp Commander · « **Reply #1 on:** January 13, 2013, 06:33:21 PM »

Muskrat

bob maier · « **Reply #2 on:** January 13, 2013, 07:03:50 PM »

Doug, you need to make the bottom edges of your rats even. A fur buyer measures to the shortest side for length. You can hold the sides in place with snap cloths pins. On mink I think they like the back legs on the same side as the tail,you can pleat them so it makes the fur thicker,also shorten the tail up and use more pins. I know it's hard without a picture but I hope it helps. Bob

Carp Commander · « **Reply #3 on:** January 13, 2013, 07:07:23 PM »

Thanks for the advise Bob. How does the fleshing look?

70sdiver · « **Reply #4 on:** January 13, 2013, 07:16:43 PM »

The fleshing on the rats look good. The mouth should be at the top of the wire make eye the eyes are centered and everything looks straight. Take a cloths pin over the mouth before you tighten it with your hooks. Then use clothes pins on each side and slide the fur on the sides snug. You have to leave the saddle on the mink. They will dock you pretty hard on that. Check out trapperman. Com

Carp Commander · « **Reply #5 on:** January 13, 2013, 07:24:56 PM »

I referred to the NAFA Pelt Handling Manual in reference to the mink saddle. It's a bit confussing!

THE MINK SADDLE
The saddle is the fleshy membrane that remains on the
back of the Mink when the pelt has been removed from
the carcass. Female Mink usually have very little fat
underneath the saddle, whereas male Mink have
substantial quantities. Due to excessive fat under the
saddle, western and northern sections of Wild Mink are
clean-scraped, whereas north-central and southern Mink
with less fat have saddles left on. However, it is important
if saddles are to remain on the pelt that all fat under the
saddle is removed. If the saddle is to be removed, remember
that Mink leather is delicate and care must be taken not to
over-scrape or damage the leather with false knifecuts
or nicks.

Should I just leave it on then?

I went out and made some adjustments. Hows this?

Thanks

bob maier · « **Reply #6 on:** January 13, 2013, 07:44:30 PM »

Much better!

oldleclercrd · « **Reply #7 on:** January 13, 2013, 08:04:32 PM »

How long do you leave the flesh out before you turn it to fur out? Cant you turn the hide out to begin with? I've seen it both ways and just wondered if it mattered.

trapperguy22 · « **Reply #8 on:** January 13, 2013, 08:08:27 PM »

Doug looks a lot better!!! Did u remember a sticker in the mink? I think as long as there isn't to much fat I would leave the saddle on. You leave rats, mink coon, and otter fur in for the fur trade.

Carp Commander · « **Reply #9 on:** January 13, 2013, 08:23:43 PM »

Sticker? same as belly board? Yeah its in there. Thanks again for the comments. I hope taking the saddle off that mink isn't going to hurt too much, It's a nice one!

oldeclericrd,

Most of what we catch around here, other than coyote and bobcat, get put up grease out.

oldleclercrd · « **Reply #10 on:** January 13, 2013, 08:27:13 PM »

Humptulips · « **Reply #11 on:** January 13, 2013, 09:14:42 PM »

On the mink saddle: Along the coast especially male mink can be very fat. You have to flesh them but if you are dealing with a really fat mink it will flesh easy which keeps from damaging them. I don't think you are likely to get any like that. I would say you could figure on leaving the saddle on all you catch.

I would close up the gap between the tail and the legs on your mink and shorten the tail by pleating. It looks pretty good as is though.

SunnySlopes · « **Reply #12 on:** January 14, 2013, 08:02:40 AM »

Looks good, Carp. I romove the saddle and all fat on the fat males. Lean males and the majority of females don't have the layer of fat under the saddle. I've never been docked for fleshing a mink clean.

Carp Commander · « **Reply #13 on:** January 15, 2013, 05:34:30 PM »

A couple more quick fur handling questions; What do you recommend for storing dried fur? I use to to ring them with wire and hang from the wall or rafters but that was in a heated fur shed. My garage is only heated part time by a a LP heater when I am out there working and while pelts are drying. Will the low temps in an unheated garage hurt anything?

Also used a piece of PVC pipe to flesh for the first time. An old trapper friend of mine from back home in Missouri started using it last year. It worked pretty good!

onetrapper · « **Reply #14 on:** January 15, 2013, 06:33:40 PM »

I like to trim about 1/8" off the bottom of the muskrat pelt all the way around. This can be done after you put it on the stretcher. This really makes a nice looking edge on the pelt and eliminates that little edge of fat on the pelt. Its just takes a minute to trim it off. Probably not something they do when the are skinning fifty rats a day though.

trapperguy22 · « **Reply #15 on:** January 15, 2013, 07:35:37 PM »

hanging them in the garage after they are dry will be fine.

SunnySlopes · « **Reply #16 on:** January 17, 2013, 08:35:48 AM »

Pelts hung in an unheated outbuilding will draw moisture and warp. I don't like this. I store rat pelts in a cardboard box. In a cool room in the house. Stand on their nose and line up belly to belly, back to back. When you fill up the box, get another. Mink I hang on a hanger in the same cool room.

BOWHUNTER45 · « **Reply #17 on:** January 17, 2013, 08:44:53 AM »

Not a whole lot to say other than fletching is the biggest part of taking care of the hides ... The mink looks great but the Muskrat could use a little more fletching ...removing that thin membrane is the key and getting all the fat off is key too !! Other than that it looks good

70sdiver · « **Reply #18 on:** January 17, 2013, 09:52:56 AM »

leave the saddle on the muskrats!!!

Machias · « **Reply #19 on:** January 17, 2013, 09:58:03 AM »

Quote from: BOWHUNTER45 on January 17, 2013, 08:44:53 AM

Not a whole lot to say other than fletching is the biggest part of taking care of the hides ..

Does the bitzenburger fletching jig work the best for fletching furs?

Carp Commander · « **Reply #20 on:** January 17, 2013, 10:48:50 AM »

Sounds like there are some difference of opinion reference the saddle on Mink and Muskrat. I'm leaving them on ALL the Muskrat, as I know this has been the standard from when I trapped back home in Missouri years ago. I will make a judgment call on the Mink depending on how greasy it appears.

I doubt my wife is going to appreciate having fur in the house. I have two dozen Muskrat, well dried, fleshed, rolled and frozen. The temps in the garage are a concern so I will wait until warmer temps and spend a week putting them up. I'm not taking any chances.

Thanks again for all the advise. I missed last weekend and it's been a tough week at work. I have the next four off and well have traps out by dark tomorrow. I am well on the way towards my goal of 100 rats. Need to figure this Mink thing out as I only have one and set a goal of 6 for the season. I devised a few creative Mink set designs and I'll be sure to share.

Happy Trapping

Doug

BOWHUNTER45 · « **Reply #21 on:** January 17, 2013, 10:53:32 AM »

Quote from: Machias on January 17, 2013, 09:58:03 AM

Quote from: BOWHUNTER45 on January 17, 2013, 08:44:53 AM
Not a whole lot to say other than fletching is the biggest part of taking care of the hides ..

Does the bitzenburger fletching jig work the best for fletching furs?

I think I may have old timers by the time I hit 50

My spelling is getting bad !!!

SunnySlopes · « **Reply #22 on:** January 17, 2013, 02:29:02 PM »

If you got enough room in the garage for a bunk, you may want to consider moving the wife out there till you get your pelts shipped out in the spring. I guess you could let her sleep in your truck in the garage if theres no room for a bunk.

Carp Commander · « **Reply #23 on:** January 17, 2013, 02:56:57 PM »

Just suggestion that would guarantee it wouldn't be an issue next year, because I wouldn't be living there anymore!

3nails · « **Reply #24 on:** January 17, 2013, 06:16:14 PM »

Carp- Good luck this weekend. Keep the thread going with updates! I'll be hitting it the next 3 days real hard too. Got my 10th mink this morning!

onetrapper · « **Reply #25 on:** January 17, 2013, 06:21:45 PM »

Nice job on the mink...how many cages out?

BOWHUNTER45 · « **Reply #26 on:** January 17, 2013, 06:22:20 PM »

When does it end ...? Trapping is also a blast but I am not into the life trap thing ...but once you got set up it would be fun to do

Humptulips · « **Reply #27 on:** January 17, 2013, 06:39:33 PM »

Quote from: BOWHUNTER45 on January 17, 2013, 06:22:20 PM

When does it end ...? Trapping is also a blast but I am not into the life trap thing ...but once you got set up it would be fun to do

Trapping season is 5 months long, Nov.1 to March 31.

3nails · « **Reply #28 on:** January 17, 2013, 08:50:22 PM »

Quote from: onetrapper on January 17, 2013, 06:21:45 PM

Nice job on the mink...how many cages out?

2 but only have them out about 50% of the time.

hardkorrhunter · « **Reply #29 on:** January 23, 2013, 12:39:10 PM »

Re; Fleshin and stretchin, ive been through this sight all over youtube even tried ebay i cant find any how to/ or dimension/ or templates for building my own stretching boards. I want to build a beaver board and some boards for raccoon,otter,coyote,marten, and bobcat if anyone can either post a website where i can order templates or even post a few dimensions that would be awesome. I do recall reading some where that bobcat and coyote should not be stretched any more than eight inches.Thanks Jessie.............

fatslinger · « **Reply #30 on:** January 23, 2013, 01:12:34 PM »

Check out "North American Fur Auctions" website. Under "Wild Fur" and "Resources" there is a NAFA Pelt Handling Manual which can be downloaded. The last few pages have instructions for building wooden stretchers the correct size. They used to have plans for a beaver board, but I didn't see it here.

Carp Commander · « **Reply #31 on:** February 06, 2013, 07:25:07 PM »

Another fur handling question. My trapping partner and I are planning to wrap up the season in a remote area in northeastern Washington. We are camping and because of the warming but still fluctuating temps. does anyone have any recommendations on how to keep the fur good. It will be cold enough at night but not during the day, rain and humidity will prevent proper drying, etc.

onetrapper · « **Reply #32 on:** February 06, 2013, 07:36:05 PM »

skin and put it on ice... pretty hard to put up fur while camping

Carp Commander · « **Reply #33 on:** February 07, 2013, 07:08:02 AM »

Any ideal how many days it will last on ice? We can refresh the ice supply in town every couple of days. Do you think we can get five or six days out of it?

onetrapper · « **Reply #34 on:** February 07, 2013, 02:29:25 PM »

Don't take my word for it but I would not be worried at 5 days. Chill furs well before you cover them since they are good insulation and if warm will stay warm for a while.

Humptulips · « **Reply #35 on:** February 07, 2013, 05:49:51 PM »

Should easily last a week.

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Author Topic: Fleshing & Stretching (Read 12018 times)

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