Busted antler help

[saylean]

So, my dads muley has a busted tine...not much...only about 3 inches or so, and about 1/2 thick or less...my question is this....should I use super glue to repair or anything else special?

Thanks in advance.

[boneaddict]

The best would be to use taxidermy stuff, which helps fill in the gap, sort of like ondo, which can also be used, but it has more color issues.  You might hit Michele up and ask what she would chargeyou to repair an antler as she probably already has a big can or two of the stuff you need.  It would probably cost you more in gas to get it to her than the actual fix.   I have used elmers, but usually you have a clear crack to deal with and it doesn't color well.  Same could be said about super glue.  Really,epoxy sculpt or something like that, would work the best. 

[PolarBear]

Yep, Epoxy Sculpt!  The only draw back with it is that it does not take stain well.  A paste stain or antler paint would be the best.  I have some antler restoration paint to try out on and epoxy sculpt fix that I did on a shed but I havent had time to try it out yet.

[saylean]

I should note that I have all the pieces of the antler and it seems to be a clean break...thanks for the tips guys!

[Michelle_Nelson]

Fixing an anter depends on how it was broke.  Lot's of times when a tine is broke off it chips around the edge of the break.  If you super glue it you will be able to see where it was broken.  

I drill a hole in antler and the pice that broke off and put a piece of wire in it befor I super glue it.  I adds a bit more streangth to the repair.  Than fil the gaps where the antler was chipped with All Game appoxie.  smooth the appoxie with water and than texturize.  Wait for it to set up.  I use a combination of stains, a little paint, and pete moss to blend it back to the original antler color.

[saylean]

hmm...sounds pretty good....

[Michelle_Nelson]

Yep, Epoxy Sculpt!  The only draw back with it is that it does not take stain well.  A paste stain or antler paint would be the best.  I have some antler restoration paint to try out on and epoxy sculpt fix that I did on a shed but I havent had time to try it out yet.

Try All Game epoxie.  It is not a grey color like Epoxy Sculpt.  It has a yellow brown color to it that makes it easier to blend.  I couldn't tell you how many tine and main beam breaks I have repaired.  I love that stuff.  I say 1 out of 20 deer I did required tine replacement or re-attachment.

[Bones]

I am not a taxidermist, but I have been repairing antlers for about twenty years. Most of those were sheds that had chews or broken tips and missing tines. I have used about everything out of the taxidermy supply houses, but the best product I have found in MinWax High Performance Wood Filler.  This product looks like Bondo, smells like Bondo and works like Bondo, but it is beige in color and when it is sanded, it is the natural bone color of an antler. It will take a stain, but sometimes you have to seal it first so it does not absorb too much stain.
  A few weeks back, I cut a couple of tines off a scrubby little antler to show a buddy how to do the repairs.  When adding a long tine, I drill into the center of the tine with a 5/16 inch drill bit, and then I use a 3/8 inch tap to cut threads into the tine, Then I screw in a piece of 3/8 inch all-thread rod until it bottoms out. Then I add two jamb nuts. Cut the rod to the desired length and then use a file or hand held grinder to make a point on the end of the rod. Then I use a small pipe nipple as a cheater to bend the rod to match the curvature of the antler. On this antler, I added a small tip to the G-1. To do this, I cut the head off of a 8 penny finish nail and drilled into the center of the tine. When the nail was imbedded in the tine, I removed the drill leaving the nail in the antler tip.



 To add a piece of tine like you want to do, you could try drilling the other piece and then push it onto the nail, but sometimes it is hard to line them up. I usually build a new tine. For a deer antler, you could use a 1/4 inch all-thread rod.
On the first application of filler, you just cover the rod leaving no voids.



It takes several applications and as you apply the filler, as it starts to set, you can shape it by shaving it wath a razor blade and by using 80 grit sand paper.



On the final application of filler, I start to match up veining and texture. This repair is as strong as the original antler tine. I think it is easier to build a new tine than trying to piece the other one onto the antler. The MinWax filler can be found at any lumberyard.

[saylean]

Wow...thanks for all the tips on here guys...I will post my results (if I am not TOO ashamed of them) on here when Im done. I really appreciate the help.

Cheers,

Saylean..

[Bones]

Saylean,  After thinking about your repair, I think I know how to do it. After you get a nail imbedded into the antler, it would be hard to use another nail to drill the piece and get the pieces to line up. I think I would use a 1/8 or 3/16 drill bit to drill the hole in the three inch piece. Then slide the piece over the nail to make sure they will mate up. The filler is soupy when you first mix it. Pack the hole and cover one of the mating surfaces with the filler, and then hold in place until the filler starts to kick. Then you can lay a razor blade flat against the antler and shave off any excess. Then when it is set, touch up with sandpaper. make sure you clean any filler off of the antler before it cures.
Bones

[Michelle_Nelson]

Hey Bone, 

That is a new product to me when it comes to anter repair.  How strong is it once it is set up? 

[Bones]

Michelle,  It is very strong.  I am sure you have used Bondo. It is the same thing but a different color. I have repaired the ivory tips
on elk antlers, and the color matches up so close the repair is not noticed. After you try it, you will not use any of the products mentioned above.
Bones

[boneaddict]

I use allgame and epoxy sculpt both, interchangeably, in the sort of fashion what I find first on my work bench.     
I will definately check out your recommendation bones.  Good post.  I still need to clone myself so I have time for some of this stuff, and I still owe Michelle my antler staining recipe.  Maybe I'll epoxy Sculpt another boneaddict.  Good luck Saylean, and please post the results!

[Michelle_Nelson]

Ohh I am going to try it thats for sure.  I am always looking for a better way of doing things in my shop.  I can probably use this in a few more applications.  I use bondo for a lot of stuff in my shop.  I mix it with chopped fiberglass and use it in my deer ears to shape them. 

[boneaddict]

I use it in ears, anchoring large antlers on forms, and for putting cut forms back together.  Good stuff.

[Bones]

This filler comes with a tube of catalyst like Bondo. The Bondo catalyst and Minwax catalyst are interchangeable. The only difference is that Bondo is pink and the MinWax is an ivory-bone color. The MinWax is a little more expensive, an 8 ounce can is $5.95 and the 12 ounce can is $8.95.
Bones

[Michelle_Nelson]

You use what boneaddict?

[boneaddict]

I use allgame or epoxy sculpt for antlers and such, but bondo for the last part I was mentioning, anchoring, ears with fiberglass, glueing forms back together etc.

[saylean]

Hey Guys and Gals, thanks for all the tips again. There is some really great advice on here. I appreciate it. I am back from my unsuccessful bear hunt...but it was great getting out and about, so now I will work on the antler...will post a pic when done.

Cheers,

Saylean~

[loppy1980]

This is a good thread. Anyone have any new tips or techniques?  I'm trying to repair a few broken tines. I've used apoxie sculpt, for the repair. I then painted the repaired time with ivory paint and cleared over top of it with a matte sealer. I'm having trouble getting the stain to take. Also it looks pretty shiney on the repair now. Any tips would be great. I'd love to see some videos on the whole process, but don't want to spend money on a sub par one.