Reloader purchase

[Heredoggydoggy]

Bottlenecked cases, (rifle with a shoulder) are usually 2-die sets.  Pistol dies are 3-die sets because one of the dies bells the case mouth (very neccessary for loading cast bullets) and even prevents scraping off some of the copper jacket on jacketed bullets.  Carbide dies are more expensive, but eliminates the need for case lube (except for nickel plated cases), and are mostly used for straight-walled pistol cases.  A case trimmer is a necessity for bottle-necked rifle cases because they "grow" with each firing. I've never trimmed a pistol case in my life. That RCBS kit in the latest Cabelas sale flyer looks like a good deal! Don't hesitate to ask for info here--I've only been reloading for 40+ years, and I'm still learning...

[huntandjeep]

What's the difference between the RCBS turret press and there progressive?

[yorketransport]

What's the difference between the RCBS turret press and there progressive?

The progressive is a bigger pain to set up.

On the turret model, you manually advance the press. The progressive does it on it's own every time you pull the handle.

Andrew

[huntandjeep]

So a turret press kit would be the way to go.

[Jingles]

Depends on how much money you want to put out. If you're just getting started and with a limited budget get a Single Stage. AS with anything else the more bells and whisles you add on the more expensive it is going to be.

[Jingles]

Bottlenecked cases, (rifle with a shoulder) are usually 2-die sets.  Pistol dies are 3-die sets because one of the dies bells the case mouth (very neccessary for loading cast bullets) and even prevents scraping off some of the copper jacket on jacketed bullets.  Carbide dies are more expensive, but eliminates the need for case lube (except for nickel plated cases), and are mostly used for straight-walled pistol cases.  A case trimmer is a necessity for bottle-necked rifle cases because they "grow" with each firing. I've never trimmed a pistol case in my life. That RCBS kit in the latest Cabelas sale flyer looks like a good deal! Don't hesitate to ask for info here--I've only been reloading for 40+ years, and I'm still learning...

One thing you're going to need is shell holders for the different calibers or sizes of cases I use pretty much the same shell holder for all my rifles and 3 different ones for the handgun calibers.
I would suggest a Stuck shell puller if you are just getting started. Anyone that says they have never had a stuck shell is either very very lucky or exaggerating their abilities. IMO

[jasnt]

+1 for rcbs kit, also you will need a dial calipers, case trimer,dies & shell holders. I would never recomend a progressive press to a beginner. Turret press is nice,single is plenty.
I must warn ya though reloading is very addictive   before long you'll be wanting a concentricety gage and competition grade dies, strongly recomend hornady comparator kit. Powder trickler, hand primer,stuck case remover(which you can make your self), flash hole deburer,primer pocket uniformer,.....list goes on.
Get a reloading Manuel and read it,I know the kit comes with one but having different brands gives you a cross reference tool and you should read a Manuel before any other purchases. It gives you an idea what tools you want or need and weather you even really want to be a reloader,and believe me you'll want an idea as to what your doing so you can start reloading as soon as you get your kit home. Don't forget the shell holders.

[Fisherdave10]

  there's so many in the Midway catalog ( 2 die set, neck sizer, match series, carbide 3 die, 3 die set, trim die etc etc).

A 2 die set for bottleneck rifle calibers is sufficient.  The first die resizes, the second die seats and crimps if you wish.  I prefer crimping all ammo for semi-autos with a third die called a Lee Factory Crimp Die.  For bolt actions, I generally don't crimp.

  A 3 die set for non-bottleneck pistol calibers is sufficient.  On my progressive, I use 5 dies.  First is resize, second is a powder-through expander (called a PTX, I use this instead of the standard expander die included with a die set), third is a Hornady bullet feed die (not necessary), fourth is a seating die and fifth is a Lee FCD for a nice taper crimp (also not a necessity for reloading).

I like Hornady dies.  They usually have a promotion where you get free bullets for buying one of their presses or die sets.  All you pay is shipping.  For buying the L-n-L progressive kit and a 9mm die set, I got 600 .308" 150gr soft points for the cost of shipping them to me. 

A turret press is in between a progressive and a single stage.  The bottom half of the press is built like a single stage, but the top has a rotating turret that you install your dies in.  You rotate the turret to proceed to the next step.  Here are examples of turret presses.  Production with a turret press will be higher than a single stage.  I think a turret press is simple enough for a beginner to learn on.

[Swannytheswan]

What is the advantage to crimping for semi autos vs not crimping for bolt actions?

[Heredoggydoggy]

If you decide on a progressive reloader, get a Dillon--They work!  RCBS= not so good.   

Disclaimer: I've been reloading for over 40 years, and still don't have a progressive press.

[Fisherdave10]

What is the advantage to crimping for semi autos vs not crimping for bolt actions?

The action of a semi-auto is not so gentle on ammunition.  Crimping is more of a precaution because it adds extra neck tension to the round.  If a round does not have sufficient neck tension, the loading action could cause bullet set-back.  This could happen as the bullet hits the feed ramp.  On some large caliber rounds, the recoil can cause bullet set-back of the cartridges in the magazine.  This would happen with bullet to magazine wall contact.  All cartridges need neck tension, but deciding how much is up to you.  Before I had a Lee FCD, I loaded .223 without crimping because the neck tension seemed sufficient, and I never had an issue. 

I don't feel like buying a die I don't need so I choose not to crimp my bolt action rounds.  Someday if I'm bored I might experiment to see if a crimp improves or reduces accuracy.  If you need to crimp, I highly recommend Lee Factory Crimp Dies.

I have heard crimping can reduce accuracy, but some say a Lee FCD improves accuracy.  All I know is I don't want to blow up my AR and setting up a seat/crimp (in one) die sucks.  If case length is not uniform with all of your brass, one case could have a perfect crimp and the next will have a buckled shoulder from too much pressure.  A Lee Factory Crimp Die works like a collet, squeezing the neck into the bullet from the sides so case length does not matter. 

[Fisherdave10]

If you decide on a progressive reloader, get a Dillon--They work!  RCBS= not so good.   

Disclaimer: I've been reloading for over 40 years, and still don't have a progressive press.

Dillon makes excellent products.  I first taught myself to reload on my dad's old (1980s era) Dillon SDB.  When deciding on a progressive press, I was considering a Dillon 650XL or a Hornady LnL AP. 

In the end I chose the Lock-n-Load because of the significantly lower initial price ($385 on sale from Midsouth) and the lower price of the numerous accessories (shellplates, etc...) I would need to buy for each caliber.  Hornady's CS is very good (almost as good as Dillon) and their accessories are more available as they are sold through many distributors and sellers.  You can find LnL parts at the local Cabelas, Sportsman's Warehouse or almost any online retailer.  You won't find anything Dillon at those stores.

If you have the money (and patience), go with Dillon.  If you don't have a lot of money, go with Hornady.  In the end, they both do the same thing.  Both presses are great.

[Greenhorn]

I have my Grand Fathers RCBS jr-3 single stage reloading press and accessories that also came with the 45th 1970 edition of the Lyman reloading hand book, RCBS balance beam scale and everything needed to reload.  I have reloaded .223 through 7mm mag. in it and it works great.  I just wish the scale had a dampener in it.

[Jerbear]

Go to a book store and find an old reloading manual.  I started reloading in 1962 and the store clerk had me buy a Hornady reloading manual.  It is the first one they put out.  Just a few years ago I bought the new Hornady edition.  I gave it away.  I suppose because of liability they dropped their loads down, but too far.  If you can find an old hard bound N.R.A. manual, grab it, as it lists hotter loads.  Then at the Packwood city wide yard sale, I stumbled onto a Herter's reloading manual.  Some of those loads will take the twist pout of your shorts.  They offer two or three loads for each situation.  I take the lesser load.  Just a suggestion..