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Author Topic: Broadhead sharpening  (Read 7317 times)

Offline h20hunter

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Broadhead sharpening
« on: September 16, 2013, 03:40:37 PM »
So...Montec G5.......shot a couple for practice and want to touch up the edge. What do you guys use? I looked online and the official just looks like a flat honing surface. Would any flat surfaced wet stone be pretty much the same thing?

Offline Smossy

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Re: Broadhead sharpening
« Reply #1 on: September 16, 2013, 03:46:07 PM »
So...Montec G5.......shot a couple for practice and want to touch up the edge. What do you guys use? I looked online and the official just looks like a flat honing surface. Would any flat surfaced wet stone be pretty much the same thing?
I think if I remember correctly it has diamond grains that help with fine sharpening, I don't think a wet-stone would work AS effectively.
That diamond plate comes with both (1200) & Rough (600) grain surfaces for bringing it down to shape, then honing in the edges.
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Offline pianoman9701

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Re: Broadhead sharpening
« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2013, 03:48:26 PM »
A flat diamond sharpener from Harbor Freight.
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Offline hoyt2002

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Re: Broadhead sharpening
« Reply #3 on: September 16, 2013, 03:51:00 PM »
flat stone will work fine. A diamond sharpener is alittle faster.

Offline JPhelps

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Re: Broadhead sharpening
« Reply #4 on: September 16, 2013, 03:58:21 PM »
To sharpen a montec, shoot it in the bank a few times and it will most likely be sharper  :chuckle:

I would think a flat stone/diamond would give a less than desirable blade angle.

Offline Smossy

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Re: Broadhead sharpening
« Reply #5 on: September 16, 2013, 04:14:56 PM »
To sharpen a montec, shoot it in the bank a few times and it will most likely be sharper  :chuckle:

I would think a flat stone/diamond would give a less than desirable blade angle.

I read somewhere that they designed the blade and grade of the hone (edge) around the sole purpose of it being able to be re-sharpened with the stone. I imagine it will never reach factory sharpness though.
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Offline hoyt2002

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Re: Broadhead sharpening
« Reply #6 on: September 16, 2013, 04:49:01 PM »
You can get them sharper than factory with a stone.

Offline 724wd

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Re: Broadhead sharpening
« Reply #7 on: September 16, 2013, 04:55:54 PM »
yeah, just a stone will work fine.  just did some last week!   :tup: 

the montecs i have were not honed on a stone prior to leaving the factory.  you can see the striations from them being sharpened 90 degrees to the direction of travel, creating micro serrations on the blade.  when i resharpen, i run the blade with the direction of travel and use a medium-then-fine stone to remove those factory serrations, creating a much smoother edge.  now we can begin the debate for which is sharper, micro-serrated or highly polished edge  :chuckle:  a serrated edge creates a slightly more ragged cut, and perhaps cuts better than the polished edge that make clean slices.  some make the case that the slightly ragged hole will not close up or heal as well as the slice created by a polished edge.  but a polished edge slices with less effort... so it's kind of a pick-your-poison scenario  :tup:

RadSav probably has more detailed information and opinions than i

Offline D-Rock425

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Re: Broadhead sharpening
« Reply #8 on: September 16, 2013, 08:54:21 PM »
To sharpen a montec, shoot it in the bank a few times and it will most likely be sharper  :chuckle:

I would think a flat stone/diamond would give a less than desirable blade angle.
:chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle:

Offline DoubleJ

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Re: Broadhead sharpening
« Reply #9 on: September 16, 2013, 09:04:56 PM »
yeah, just a stone will work fine.  just did some last week!   :tup: 

the montecs i have were not honed on a stone prior to leaving the factory.  you can see the striations from them being sharpened 90 degrees to the direction of travel, creating micro serrations on the blade.  when i resharpen, i run the blade with the direction of travel and use a medium-then-fine stone to remove those factory serrations, creating a much smoother edge.  now we can begin the debate for which is sharper, micro-serrated or highly polished edge  :chuckle:  a serrated edge creates a slightly more ragged cut, and perhaps cuts better than the polished edge that make clean slices.  some make the case that the slightly ragged hole will not close up or heal as well as the slice created by a polished edge.  but a polished edge slices with less effort... so it's kind of a pick-your-poison scenario  :tup:

RadSav probably has more detailed information and opinions than i
Not speaking for RadSav but, he has told me that slick blades do the trick better than serrated.  Serrated blade cuts can close up easier, like a zipper where slick blades cut is like trying to patch a hose that's running by putting 2 clean cut pieces back together.  It's just going to slip and slide while the blood continues to pump.

If I recall correctly anyway. 

Offline 724wd

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Re: Broadhead sharpening
« Reply #10 on: September 16, 2013, 10:13:37 PM »
you could be right... i dont remember which heals quicker

Offline returnofsid

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Re: Broadhead sharpening
« Reply #11 on: September 17, 2013, 09:25:11 AM »
I recently purchased broadheads from White Tail Plus Pro Archery Shop, in Deer Park, WA, though for the life of me, I cannot remember they brand.  They recommended them to me and one of the selling points is that they were specifically designed to be sharpened with a flat stone.  They also sold me on their opinion that they fly very close to field tips.  I can attest to that.  With my bow sighted in, with field tips, I only had to make very minor elevation adjustments to get my broadheads sighted in.  The adjustments were so minor that my field tips still hit where I'm aiming.

Ahh, just found the packaging.  They are Magnus Snuffer SS broadheads. 

Another selling point was their Lifetime Replacement Guarantee.  As it was explained to me, you could shoot them into a brick wall, destroying the broadhead, sent it back to them and they'll send you a complete package of new replacements...

They also have another cool program.  If you harvest any game animal, with a Snuffer SS, send them a phot and testimonial and they'll send you a t-shirt or cap!  Unfortunately, I missed a huge bull Sunday! Lost an arrow and new broadhead...oh and the huge bull!
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100 grain Muzzy 3 blade and/or 100 grain Magnus Snuffer SS Broadheads

Offline JLS

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Re: Broadhead sharpening
« Reply #12 on: September 17, 2013, 09:38:53 AM »
So...Montec G5.......shot a couple for practice and want to touch up the edge. What do you guys use? I looked online and the official just looks like a flat honing surface. Would any flat surfaced wet stone be pretty much the same thing?

Yes, sharpen these on a flat stone.  Finish them by stropping on a piece of leather and some metal polishing compound and you can get them scary sharp.
Matthew 7:13-14

Offline MtnMuley

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Re: Broadhead sharpening
« Reply #13 on: September 17, 2013, 02:16:38 PM »
Why don't you jsut buy the G5 sharpener from Montec :dunno:.  I did, and it seems to work great.

Offline JLS

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Re: Broadhead sharpening
« Reply #14 on: September 17, 2013, 02:22:21 PM »
yeah, just a stone will work fine.  just did some last week!   :tup: 

the montecs i have were not honed on a stone prior to leaving the factory.  you can see the striations from them being sharpened 90 degrees to the direction of travel, creating micro serrations on the blade.  when i resharpen, i run the blade with the direction of travel and use a medium-then-fine stone to remove those factory serrations, creating a much smoother edge.  now we can begin the debate for which is sharper, micro-serrated or highly polished edge  :chuckle:  a serrated edge creates a slightly more ragged cut, and perhaps cuts better than the polished edge that make clean slices.  some make the case that the slightly ragged hole will not close up or heal as well as the slice created by a polished edge.  but a polished edge slices with less effort... so it's kind of a pick-your-poison scenario  :tup:

RadSav probably has more detailed information and opinions than i
Not speaking for RadSav but, he has told me that slick blades do the trick better than serrated.  Serrated blade cuts can close up easier, like a zipper where slick blades cut is like trying to patch a hose that's running by putting 2 clean cut pieces back together.  It's just going to slip and slide while the blood continues to pump.

If I recall correctly anyway.

You are correct.

A cut that has more small tears in the tissue will release more clotting factors and thus help is close quicker.  A razor cut does not have near the tissue damage and will not release as many clotting factors as a blade that has serrations or rough edges.
Matthew 7:13-14

 


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