getting started bow hunting

[scoobydoo6906]

I am thinking I am going to get started into bow hunting. I have been looking around a bit and came across these guys: http://monsterbows.com/monster/default.htm anybody have one? are they junk? anyhow I am not looking to buy asap so I need a little help selecting gear. I am completely new to bows short of shooting a 30lb recurve bow a friend had back in junior high. so its been a while and compound bows are a different beast all together I know that for sure. money will not be a consideration really, but I am not going to spend extra money for something that looks cool. so I am going to need the how's and why's of everything. well selecting equipment wise at least. I know a few people that bow hunt but I want to have a clue what I am doing before I hit them up for help. it may get a little tedious but all the help would e welcome.

[Hoytstaffshooter83]

you live in vancouver, go to archery world off of grand, best pro shop you will find and they are great guys! or call me at 360 823 3525 id be glad to give you a ride, Im there 7 days a week

[scoobydoo6906]

here are the first couple of questions. I hope to hunt elk and deer at least, what IBO speed range would be appropriate for each? its more of an energy thing maybe huh, well then what arrow weights would be more appropriate question? I know faster will be flatter shooting like with a rifle.  but other than flinging a heavier arrow at the same velocity as a lighter one is there any big difference in IBO speeds? next question, what is brace height and how do I go about choosing a bow with the correct one for me or does it really matter? I am assuming its highly subjective.

[demontang]

The IBO speed realy doesnt matter becuase its done with a bare string and a 350grain arrow at 70lb draw and 30" draw length. I think any of the new bows have more then enough to kill an elk. As for brace height a long brace height makes a bow more forgiving and a little slower. You will need to shoot some bows and figure out what you like.

[Bscman]

+1, The only way to know what you like is to shoot, shoot, shoot! Try as many as you can!

As for IBO speed...don't worry much about it. 15 years ago we were shooting 260-280fps and still dropping elk just fine. 100years before that, elk were falling to poorly made long bows that were flinging arrows 160fps or less.

These days, it's tough to even find an adult bow shooting under 300fps.
But as mentioned, realize that YOUR bow won't really shoot that fast. They are tested at 70lbs, hard against the wall, with a bare string, and a 350gr arrow that usually doesn't even have fletches, at a draw weight of 70lbs.

In WA, at 70lbs you can't legally hunt with an arrow lighter than 420gr so you'll lose speed right there! Not to mention you may not draw 70lbs since it's your first bow...and you may draw less than 30" (lose 12fps per inch shorter).

Longer bows, and larger brace heights will make a bow more forgiving (easier to shoot accurately, form is *slightly* less critical). Faster bows usually have very little brace height and can be finicky to shoot. I wouldn't recommend a "speed bow" for your first bow.

Go to your local archery shop and try out a bunch of bows, and get all the advice and knowlegde you can soak up.
Go check out sportsman's warehouse. They have some great bows starting to go on clearance right now. They're also have a "no sales tax" sale the 22/23rd of this month.

Good luck!

[scoobydoo6906]

so I am about 6'2" and my wingspan is about the same about what kind of draw length would I have? so with the way they measure IBO speed will that speed reflect the affect that brace height has on velocity? so how far off from the "true velocity" is IBO speed? what would you consider the modern minimum IBO speed wise of a bow for elk or maybe a bear some day? will a slower bow function more quietly? in general of course I know that different makers will be different. any maker that makes noisy bows or any brand that I should avoid?

[Bscman]

Generally speaking, faster bows are more finicky (less forgiving) and are louder...though there are some pretty loud, slow bows still on the market too!

With a 6'2" wingspan, you'll likely be shooting 30" or 31"
Make sure you get fitted by someone who knows what they're doing, as most of the time people walk out the door with too long of a draw length...which will directly affect form (for the worst), which means you won't shoot as well. 

As for speed vs. brace height...
Looks up some specs for bows and you'll see a basic trend--the slower bows have more brace height (forgiving) and the faster bows have less brace height.

The lower the brace height, the longer the "power stroke" of the bow. By that I mean the arrow is being pushed by the string for a longer amount of time with the same amount of draw length--which translates into more energy being transmitted into the arrow (more speed!).

Don't get caught up in the speed thing too much.
Just about ANY bow on the market that is legal to hunt with in WA is capable of taking an elk (when properly tuned, good shot placement, and good components). Anything rated above 285 will be fine, with anything more being "excessive" in my opinion. Concentrate on smoothness, noise, and comfort...those are the most important aspects with todays technology.

There are guys shooting traditional equipment getting a whopping 160-180fps and still getting pass-thru's on elk at reasonable distances.

As for brands...all the major brands are putting out good bows. Some are better than others, but "duds" are rare these days. Most bows can be quieted down with limbsavers, string leeches, etc.

Bowtech/Diamond, PSE, Martin, Hoyt, Parker, Ross, Mathews, Fred Bear...and a handful of others all have good bows on the market that will satisfy any price point.

Again, the only way to really learn and figure out what you want is to go shoot some bows! Most pro shops (and even some big-box type stores) are more than willing to let you try and few bows, give you some tips, and aid in your decision. Don't feel overwhelmed, or like you're "bothering" the staff--thats what they're there for!!!

[scoobydoo6906]

Bscman all that being said what do you have? what did you start out with? are there any mistakes that you made selecting your first bow because you didn't know any better? I understand the bow is largely a feel thing but I am talking about set up stuff like the sights you chose and peep size and such.

[demontang]

I think everyone uses a diff set as for sights and peeps, I use a true glow 5 pin and a G5 peep. Rest's are another big one, I like to use a fall away rest but a lot of people use the whisker biscuits.

[scoobydoo6906]

the one thing I am pretty certain on is that I am going to use a fall away type rest. it seems that a whisker biscuit might have some of the whiskers freeze together if it got wet and cold enough. it also seems that it would not be as consistent either particularly as it wore a little.  a I am thinking of one of these: http://shop.eaglearchery.com/browse.cfm/4,9037.html
not that it couldn't freeze but I think it would be less likely to happen.

[demontang]

Thats kind off like what I have, but mine isnt enclosed. I havent shot in the winter yet but it hasnt failed me yet.

[bowhuntin]

scooby check out huntersfriend.com they have a lot of information explaining questions that you might have.

[scoobydoo6906]

thanks for the link, I feel all needy for asking all these newb questions.

[Stalker]

Another decision you will need to make is if you want to shoot fingers -v- mechanical release, trigger release -v- back tension.  Using a mechanical release will make your release more consistent and less wear on the fingers; but also one more item that could fail, be left in the vehicle or at home.

I use a release and don't see myself shooting compound with fingers.

Good luck and enjoy.  >>--------> addicting

[Bscman]

Modern compounds are nearly impossible to shoot bare-fingered. They're too short--which translates into finger pinch at full draw!

You also don't want a back tension release until you've learned how to shoot. Get a basic, "trigger" type mechanical release.

I've been fortunate enough to own SEVERAL bows.
I started out at 6yrs old with a fiberglass long bow, and slowly worked up until I was shooting a 40lb recurve...then jumped into compounds. I'm slowly reverting back to traditional gear, though, because it's harder to master and is more fun IMHO.

Don't fear the whisker biscuit. I shot with/hunted with one for several years.
I never had one freeze and they don't wear much at all--I never experienced a POI change. I got about 6 years out of my last biscuit before moving to a fall away (Limbsaver and Limbdriver).
A W/B is a very good rest--assuming your arrows are properly fletched.
They'll ruin a set of poorly glued fletches! Otherwise, they are pretty much as accurate as anything else. I ruined more than my share of arrows to robin hoods with a W/B. However, they're also more demanding that you hold the shot (follow-through!).
In a hunting situation, arrow containment can be a very good thing. My W/B came in very handy on several occasions. They are a great beginners rest, too, IMHO.
If you're worried about bristle wear, steer clear of the Hostage rest. THAT has wear issues!

BTW, the trophy taker you listed is a decent one.
I recommend you don't buy a fall away without bearings, though. Some have bronze or nylon inserts instead of true, sealed bearings. These will wear and jam or become extremely loose in time. Not good!
Also, some are better than others. They can also be a pain to tune (especially with fast bows) because sometimes the rest doesn't fall fast enough to clear the fletches.

There are benefits and downfalls to everything....
Excatly why I say try a whole bunch out and see what you like best!