GrizzlyGibbs' Taxidermy

[Michelle_Nelson]

First off this post is not intended to be mean in any way. This is intended to inspire you to further improve on your work with every skull that you do. If I came on here and said that is absolutely the best skull I have ever seen using the boiling process I would be lying and not doing you any favors.

Their are no inner nasal bones left inside the skull.  I can look through those holes on the side of it's face and see the table in one of the pic's.  I shouldn't be able to do that. The yellow discoloration you are seeing on the skull in the pictures is grease that has been set into the bone.  I can't really see that well in the pictures and of course every antelope is different but the sheaths and down to far on the core. Normally on an antelope they will be about 1/4" to 1/2" higher.

A trick to lining up the sheath on the core would be to take a small drill bit and drill a small hole in the back of the sheath in to the core before you go to removing them. Enough to put a small wire in their. This way you can line them back up when setting the sheath.

Look into getting the Beatles but do your research first.  A lot of people can't use the maceration process either because they can't stand the smell or where they live. Their is a LOT of info on Taxidermy.net in the skull section.  I can also tell you of a few reputable dealers that sell starter colonies. Beetle have to be kept in a stable temperate. To cold and they will quit eatting and won't be a productive and could possible die. To warm and they will die.  

[grizzlygibbs]

Thanks Michelle, I appreciate your advice!  I had no idea that the inner nasal bones were bones, they kinda all came out with the nostril lining, so that is a good tip... To be honest though i do believe that it looks a heck of a lot cleaner without the thin bones, but thats just my opinion and it wouldnt be fair if I do them for actual customers in the future just because i like the look! 

About the yellow, he said he didnt want it starch white so i didnt leave it in the peroxide for the whole time, not saying its not the grease but do you think it would have whitened up with a day or two more?

I just slid the sheaths on for the photo op, i was gonna use some foam to place them where they actually go!

And I am not familiar with the maceration process, i will have to look into it a little more.   Thanks for the advice Michelle!

[Michelle_Nelson]

No I don't think the skull would have gotten any whiter.  Yes it may have gotten whiter for a little while but the grease would have came back through with in a few days or weeks.

I probably wouldn't use foam to reattach the sheeths.  Especailly if it is expandable.  Your likely to make a big mess.  Once on the skull and sheeths it will be a pain in the butt to get off.  I would use bondo. 

Maceration is a very easy method and very delicate on the skulls.  It will keep those inner nasal bones intact.  The meat basiclly melts right off the bone.  I have a skull that I am fixing to get ready to macerate.  If I have time I will do a tutorial.  I am waiting for it to thaw out!

[grizzlygibbs]

Cool i will be looking forward to it! I was gonna use foam scraps that we use as cusioning for our med box's on our ambulances.

Also I wish i would have known yesterday cause I already started boiling another head for a buddy!  Maybe next time I will try the maceration!

[Alpinegus]

Two comments.
Good job on the horn mount, but I do recommned still buying the braid from Van Dykes or ??.

I use white gas to get the grease/oil out if the fish skins; why would it not work with skulls to remove grease/oils?