pam cooking spray for broadheads..

[hillbilli]

so dont know who else does this, but especially hunting on the wet side, or in other wet environment, or evn whenjust puttign away my broadheads at the end of the season- I spray my arrowheads with canola oil or Pam cooking spray- keeps them from rusting, and is food grade that doesnt make my bow smell like  a diesel truck.. I also put a little 1/4 to 1/2 " strip of reflective tape above and below the fletch on my arrow. makes it a lot easier to find arrows just after dark with a flashlight..

[Lucky1]

I like the reflective tape idea. Lot cheaper than lighted knocks and seems like it will work well. Just go look for the arrow after dark with a good light. Where do you get the tape you use?

[lokidog]

I've sprayed mine like that in the past as well.  I used cooking oil instead of WD40 as I didn't want non-edible oil in my meat.

The reflective tape is a good idea.

[Greg Mullins]

I put mine in a tupperware container with veggy oil.

[hillbilli]

automotive departments usually have the reflective tape...

[Smossy]

For you reflective lovers, Here you go and your welcome.
This is a place I go through. http://www.arrowrap.com/solid-reflective.php

[NOCK NOCK]

Broadheads that rust...   I swear by thunder heads, been using them since day one, never had one rust.

[Smossy]

Broadheads that rust...   I swear by thunder heads, been using them since day one, never had one rust.

Good carbon blades will rust, They're great for being sharp and replaceable, but that's about it.
With my Savora's Ill use them for one hunt and then throw the blades away whether I kill something or not. (Unless there's virtually no moisture outside and I'm not walking through wet vegetation/brush AND they're not shot) Then I may hold on to them until the next hunt. 
My understanding is the more resilient the blade is to the weather and long term use; the less likely they are to hold an edge and STAY sharp.
Carbon holds the lowest profile sharp edge, But rusts.
Someone correct me If I'm wrong.

Radsav will probably chime in with the technical side and what not eventually. 

[RadSav]

Broadheads that rust...   I swear by thunder heads, been using them since day one, never had one rust.

If you've had an actual heat treated razorblade, which Thunderheads are, then you have had rusty blades.  They are called stainless, not rustless!  Any heat treatable stainless has a reasonable carbon content.  If it didn't they would be as soft as .027" thick aluminum foil.  In carbon steel blades what you see as rust is an iron oxide film.  This "rust" in carbon blades is active thus it creates/breeds even more iron oxide and it eventually penetrate into the metals internal structure causing it to flake.  Stainless steel begins to rust as the surface carbon decays, but the active iron oxide is defused by a passive chromium film.  This bonds the oxide to the surface and stops the flaking and penetration into the metal's internal structure.  You now have a dull blade, but it's not going to get any worse from this point on.  Whereas a carbon blade will continue to decay.  When you figure the carbon blade started out about 30% sharper than the stainless it's not really that big of an advantage in practical hunting scenarios.  Huge benefit is sales and marketing spin though!

Good news is that stainless is a progressing art whereas carbon has pretty much run it's course.  We get better and better stainless all the time.  Some has begun to exhibit grinding capabilities as close as 80% of what you get in a good quality 1095 Carbon.  And the purity in the microscopic fine edge is getting effective enough that degradation of the edge is not at all what it used to be.  G5 Stryker, Grim Reaper and Slick Trick are using this new steel right now!  I know WASP was discussing it before Maleski passed away, but I'm not sure if they made the change or not.

I've sprayed mine like that in the past as well.  I used cooking oil instead of WD40 as I didn't want non-edible oil in my meat.

Instead you get food-grade alcohol, nitrous oxide, carbon dioxide, or propane


I would stay away from PAM myself if trying to maintain the quality of my blades edges.  PAM and other cooking sprays are simply an oil (usually canola) thinned out with water.  An emulsifying agent keeps the water and oil suspended so they don't separate.  But, you are simply spraying down your blades with water, corn alcohol and veggie oil.  Not the most preventative rust solution out there IMO.  While WD-40 is not my absolute favorite it does displace water and does not get sticky over time.  Aquanet does have water in it but ingredients in the hair spray cause it to evaporate quickly leaving a nonsticky polymer bonded shell.  Both are reasonably good choices.  However, I prefer Castrol, Remoil or similar gun oils instead.  Doesn't take much and smell can be limited.

Or better yet...replace your blades often with nice fresh optimal sharp new ones!  They are cheap insurance for that once in a lifetime trophy

[Tree Killer]

I've used a lite coat of vaseline on my broadheads for years.  If you're concerned about the odor of your broadheads, how you go about covering the overwhelming stench of yourself? 

[Smossy]

Thanks for the very informative post buddy You never cease to amaze me, Your like a living breathing archery Wikipedia

[NOCK NOCK]

Is this rust microscopic?  I have some old t-heads hanging in the shop, been there for 8+ years, i see no rust

[RadSav]

Is this rust microscopic?  I have some old t-heads hanging in the shop, been there for 8+ years, i see no rust

Depends on the particular material used what the size of the iron/carbon molecules.  The natural passivation bonds it to the surface so you see very little of it unless you view in a microscope.  The first time you watch a drop of saline mist hit a stainless blade through a microscope it's rather startling!  Reminds me of dropping pennies in acid during high school science class.  It doesn't remain active so you don't get the large accumulation of orange/red you do with carbon.  But the damage is done.

When I started bowhunting one of the early successful usages of stainless razorblades was by Kolpin in their Modular broadhead (Not to be mistaken by the garbage imported Kolpin blades after Ron Kolpin sold the company).  Opening day of that year I shot a small two point blacktail with my third shot.  Clean misses on the first two attempts   One of the missed shots hit a root ball of a fallen fir tree.  It penetrated only about 1/3rd the blade length, but I was unable to pull it loose.  So I flagged it with tape and figured I would come back later with a puller.  I did not make it back until late elk season.  When I did finally pull it you would have been lucky to cut yourself on the blades.  They were dull as dull could be even though they looked shinny new.  There was nothing around to rub against it, no build up of dust or dirt.  Just exposure!  That was years before I met Duke Savora and when I first learned stainless was not immune to environmental degradation.

[D-Rock425]

I've never owned a broadhead long enough to have it rust.  I always seem to get blood on them way before they have time to rust.

[lokidog]

I've never owned a broadhead long enough to have it rust.  I always seem to get blood on them way before they have time to rust.