Gluing inserts

[Rider]

Been buying Beeman ICS Hunter 400 arrows. Had them cut and inserts installed. Been having problems with the inserts pulling out. One person recommended hot melt glue, another article recommends a low temp melt glue, another article recommend a slow set epoxy.

Is there a "right way" to glue the inserts in so they don't come out. Ideally I'd like to be able to align the vanes with the blades of the broadheads.

[Deathgrip]

Clean them well with a q tip and alcohol let them dry and use Bohning Insert Iron. This works very well I have done 100's of dozens with it.

[Rider]

Where can I pick up the Bohning Insert Iron locally?

[mountainman]

Black goat tough with the rubber
compound added

[demontang]

Aslong as they are cleaned right ive had very few problem with any of the fast set glues. I like the g5 blue glue and goat tough.

[et1702]

JB Weld...Nothing better IMHO. 

ET

[Redbeard]

Prep is the key in my opinion. A good inside cleaning with alcohol and a q-tip.  All glues work for me

[buckfvr]

appropriate sized bore brush followed by q-tips with denatured alcohol.........any of the glues mentioned.

[ouchfoss]

As already mentioned, prep and cleaning is the first thing. I have always done real well with cyano acrylate ( super glue). I have used it for the last six years and have yet to have one insert come back out or come loose. Although, you need to make sure everything is true and perfect before you glue because after 30 seconds, that insert is there to stay. Other nice thing is that super glue can be found at almost any store nowadays. I used to use hot glue for probably my first ten years of bowhunting and had far too many inserts come loose or come off inside my target. Never again.

[RadSav]

Just make sure your cleaning alcohol is rated 97 or greater.  Then just about all the popular insert glues will work just fine.  I generally use Goat Tuff or Gorilla.  But, if you want to align your broadheads with your fletching best to use a hot melt glue like Bohnings Ferr-L-Tite CoolFlex.  To reverse bond for broadhead rotation definitely use the hot water method instead of flame to avoid damage to the carbon shaft.

All above mentioned glues are good.  However, only the CoolFlex allows for the reversal for broadhead rotation and reactivation once set.  It's not as good a bond as the cyanoacrylates mentioned above, but it should work just fine.  Biggest key is that prep cleaning with high quality alcohol or laquer thinner.  And make sure it's completely dry before gluing!

[RadSav]

Getting off track for a moment...

You look like a pretty good sized guy!  What bow/poundage are you shooting where you get away with shooting a 400 spined arrow?

[D-Rock425]

I think he's shooting a 2012 PSE brute.  I did some detective work 

[Rider]

Getting off track for a moment...

You look like a pretty good sized guy!  What bow/poundage are you shooting where you get away with shooting a 400 spined arrow?

2012 PSE Brute X @ 50#. Shooting ICS Hunter 400 on the recommendation of Nock Point. I see a number of people maxing out their bow (my max is 70#). Seems to me that a 50# will still make the kill with a properly placed shot. I picked up Muzzy Phantom broadheads this weekend. I have both Toxic and Muzzy in the arsenal now.

[RadSav]

Seems to me that a 50# will still make the kill with a properly placed shot.

Every day of the week and twice on Sunday!

Most guys would actually kill more animals if they shot less poundage.  Accuracy has little to do with speed and energy.  But means so much to the recovery of the animal.  I do find with most bows that there seems to be a performance threshold where arrows go from lazy to determined at about 55 pounds.

[Rider]

I do find with most bows that there seems to be a performance threshold where arrows go from lazy to determined at about 55 pounds.

I'll have to give that a try. Thanks.