Magnus killer bee?

[DIYARCHERYJUNKIE]

I want a cut On contact blade this year for elk.  I want a solid blad no vents and bleeder blades.  The Magnus killer bees say for crossbows...  Does that mean no compound use?  It didn't say. Any suggestions for a solid blade for a compound that is the cut on contact and has the bleeder blades?  Thanks.

[RadSav]

Any particular reason for the solid blade configuration? 

I still think the Zwickey is near impossible to beat if you want a solid cut on contact broadhead.  With adapter it is a little heavy, but it is much better steel than used in the Magnus.  I've killed a few freezers full of animals with the Zwickey.  Never a failure and never a lost animal.  I have seen a number of failures with the newer style Magnus banana peeling when contacting bone.  Never recovered those animals...only the broadhead and arrow.

If solid is not as important as great bleeders I'd have to recommend the WASP Sharpshooter.  Much easier to sharpen than a Zwickey and the amazingly sharp bleeders are easily replaced.  It is a very good product.  Especially if you want a smaller easier to get to fly broadhead.  But the main blade and bleeders do have vents.

[DIYARCHERYJUNKIE]

Will a bigger blade like the Magnus change my flight compared to my grizztrick 2 ?  I'll check out the wasp.  The only reason i want the solid blades is so the bent doesn't break on bone and cost me my animal.  Will the solid blade affect flight compared to the vented blade?  Thanks rad for the help.

[RadSav]

Will a bigger blade like the Magnus change my flight compared to my grizztrick 2 ?  I'll check out the wasp.  The only reason i want the solid blades is so the bent doesn't break on bone and cost me my animal.  Will the solid blade affect flight compared to the vented blade?  Thanks rad for the help.

Slick Trick will likely be easier to get to fly better if you do not have good FOC or fletching twist.  If the head is well designed there should be no difference in breakage between solid and vented blades.  Where the Magnus has failed in the past there were no vents...just solid soft steel.  Doesn't break because it is about as strong as aluminum foil.

Solid blades within a reasonable profile size will fly better than vented blades of the same profile.  But if you design your arrow right that is a mute point...They will all fly good.

[DIYARCHERYJUNKIE]

I have copper 75 grain inserts.  My foc is up there with all the upfront weight.  The next set of arrows I get will be max helical.  So after looking around I think the viper trick or the other two blade slick trick offers.  The blades should be quality and I still get cut on contact.

[RadSav]

Cut on contact doesn't mean very much beyond sales and supposition.  I think those Slick Tricks would be great for you!  Plus the blades are WAY better than the soft Magnus.

[DIYARCHERYJUNKIE]

Thanks rad like always your a ton of help. 

I was told the blade up front was the best penetration.  So I figured is look for the study the guy referred to and this is what I found.  I'm sure you've heard of the study but on page five they refer to best tip for bone skids.

http://www.tuffhead.com/ashby_pdfs/ashby%20ours/2007%20Update,%20Part%208.pdf

[et1702]

Thanks rad like always your a ton of help. 

I was told the blade up front was the best penetration.  So I figured is look for the study the guy referred to and this is what I found.  I'm sure you've heard of the study but on page five they refer to best tip for bone skids.

http://www.tuffhead.com/ashby_pdfs/ashby%20ours/2007%20Update,%20Part%208.pdf

Can't go wrong w/single bevel BH's.  For the past several years I've been using nothing else.  I like the Masai and Samurai 150gr models from AK Archery.  I've also Used the Strickland Helix 150gr single-bevel BH.  All of them have perfermed flawlessly.  I shoot them with about 18% FOC out of my Hoyt compound and they fly like a field point.  I have a long draw lenght (31.5") and shoot at 68lbs.  With 150gr BH's and brass inserts in my arrow shafts, I've found that I need to use 300 spine arrows to get optimum flight.  The single bevel BH's do seem to make a much bigger entrance hole than a typical two blade (i.e., they claim that it's because they continue to rotate as the penetrate).  Based on my experience, this is a reasonable claim.  I've used the Magnus blades previously too.  Haven't hit any big bones yet.  But, all have been full pass on deer, elk and bear, breaking ribs on entrance and exit on some of them.  The last deer I shot was with the strickland Helix. Deer was slightly quartered to me and up hill from me.  I hit her in low in front of shoulder on one side and arrow came out behind the shoulder on the other side.  Looked like I shot her with a howitzer.  Big entrance and exit holes and a ton of blood just pouring out of her.  Left a big red trail as she stumbled down the hill past me and died.  Blood was still pouring out the entrance hole where she lay dead on the ground (i.e., draining out of chest cavity).  So, I'm definitely a believer in single-bevel BH's  Nothing I've shot with them has managed to go more than a few yards following the shot.   

ET

[RadSav]

Thanks rad like always your a ton of help. 

I was told the blade up front was the best penetration.  So I figured is look for the study the guy referred to and this is what I found.  I'm sure you've heard of the study but on page five they refer to best tip for bone skids.

http://www.tuffhead.com/ashby_pdfs/ashby%20ours/2007%20Update,%20Part%208.pdf

Well, if the Dentist says so 

[DIYARCHERYJUNKIE]

   what do you think about eds study rad?  Do you think it outdated?  It seems very extensive from what I have read.  I'm surprised you weren't part of this study rad.     I have some grizztrick 2s and should just test the viper heads up against it for penetration depth.  Any methods besides critters that you have used to test Broad heads? 

[RadSav]

  what do you think about eds study rad?  Do you think it outdated?  It seems very extensive from what I have read.  I'm surprised you weren't part of this study rad.     I have some grizztrick 2s and should just test the viper heads up against it for penetration depth.  Any methods besides critters that you have used to test Broad heads?

I can not say too much about the Dentist in an open forum.  Otherwise the cult followers will come to my house and follow up on their death threats.  Much of what he has written is based on a solid foundation.  I do not think it is outdated, but his vision is rather narrow.  Traditional longbow shooters often have that tunnel vision.  I think it is a side effect of all that vibration.  I suppose that does help convince folks to spend $40 per single broadhead

[DIYARCHERYJUNKIE]

I saw one that was 125 on ebay last night!  it was signed though...  was it worth the money I spent...     just kidding.  I am not an elitist by any means.  I think razor trick will be what I shoot this year.  I Like the steel force but the aluminum furrel and the cheap looking steel make me think it would be too weak for direct bone hit.  Have you tried the steel force rad?

[RadSav]

I saw one that was 125 on ebay last night!  it was signed though...  was it worth the money I spent...     just kidding.  I am not an elitist by any means.  I think razor trick will be what I shoot this year.  I Like the steel force but the aluminum furrel and the cheap looking steel make me think it would be too weak for direct bone hit.  Have you tried the steel force rad?

I bet your local dentist could autograph one for less.  And he will not claim to be the first to do studies in Africa...five years after the well documented Chapinda Pools testing 

Have shot a few animals with the Steel Force when they first came out.  Of course I stay as far away from serrated edges as much as possible.  If memory serves me correct I took three AZ mule deer, three AZ Javalina and one OR bear with it.  Nothing to write home about, but all performed successfully with zero failures.  All shot using 2020 XX75's out of a Border recurve.  Was a nice little combination!  One of the muledeer was shot at 35 yards with one heck of a cross wind.  Flew like it was attached to a lazer beam.  That was probably the most impressive thing I experience with them.

[DIYARCHERYJUNKIE]

steel force has a titanium blade and the furrel looks steel...

[RadSav]

steel force has a titanium blade and the furrel looks steel...

I was shooting one of the first runs of the Premium 4 blade.  Stainless steel blade and aluminum ferrule. Pretty good stainless for the day and age we were using them.  SS technologies have come a long way since then.  But, they and Rocky Mountain Razor were at the forefront of very good stainless blades.  Today, both WASP and Slick Trick are using better/harder stainless than Steel Force giving them an edge that holds up better.  (if they have held their specs from last time I checked WASP and Slick Trick were between 52 & 54 Rc)

Titanium blades are for guys with way more money than brains.  Titanium is a HORRIBLE blade material!  As is the terminal performance of any serrated blade!

[DIYARCHERYJUNKIE]

I won't be going serated.  So all signed keep pointing me back to slick trick razor trick.

[RadSav]

Or go Viper Trick and have the best of everything you seem to be wanting!