First euro in peroxide right now

[7mmfan]

So I've taken a little over a month now to clean/degrease my skull, and today I put in a bath of 40 volume hair developer creme.

I am not mixing it with powder, but instead just letting it soak. I've read many blurbs online about letting it soak for 4-6, 12, 24 hours and so on. Some say pull it out after a few hours, hose it off, let it dry in sunlight... well its clearly not sunny today. Another said to put it right under bright halogen lights.

Any input from you guys that have used this stuff before on duration of soak and whether putting it under bright/warm light is necessary to achieve the white I want?

[DIYARCHERYJUNKIE]

Painting on the cream or soaking will give you bright white effects without any light.  just be carful to keep the liquid off the antlers it will bleach them too.  That's why I paint it on so I can get all the way up to the base with the white.

[sirmissalot]

Usually the light is used to just produce heat. That same hair developer you have is used at hair salons, and they have the ladies sit under those big goofy things over their heads that blows hot air. In my experience it just speeds things up but is not needed. You should be able to soak in the 40 volume whitener for a couple days, pull it out let dry and see if it's to your liking.

[7mmfan]

Great, thanks for the replies. I have it about 2/3 covered in the bath, paper towels wrapped around the pedacles soaked in peroxide to whiten there but keep the antlers themselves out of the liquid. I am brushing the top and sides of the skull that are not in the liquid every half hour or so to keep it very wet and covered. Sounds like I'm on the right track. Thanks!

[sirmissalot]

Yup you should be good. I prefer to soak as well, it whitens all the little bones all the way through instead of just the surface, looks a lot better.

[7mmfan]

Wasn't happy with how high the liquid was sitting on the skull, so had to put some "filler" in the pail. Now its sitting perfectly about 1/4" below the base of the antlers and filling the eye sockets. Looking good! I'm getting excited!

[HUNTINCOUPLE]

In glad you posted this. I macerated my bull from this year and it has been ready for the peroxide. Good idea on the filler! My wife is going to laugh if I'm sitting in the bathroom soaking my skull as I empty some fillers!

[7mmfan]

In glad you posted this. I macerated my bull from this year and it has been ready for the peroxide. Good idea on the filler! My wife is going to laugh if I'm sitting in the bathroom soaking my skull as I empty some fillers!

Of some of the odd things that are done in bathrooms, sitting on the toilet drinking beer so you can use the bottles as filler to whiten a deer skull is probably right up there with the best of them     Can't argue with success though!

[DIYARCHERYJUNKIE]

that will look sweet! 

[Smossy]

I like the 40 Volume cream as well as it seems to work alittle better then the liquid if you can get it to work into the small crevices but I've noticed that sometimes the cream being so thick, Once it starts to oxidize it creates a bubble around the bone sometimes and leaves a big spot where you can notice it did nothing. Not sure if anyone's found a way around that or tried to thin the cream out alittle with water?

[7mmfan]

I noticed the last time I went up and brushed over the top of the skull that there was a fizz/bubble worked up just below the eye socket. I carefully lifted the skull, stirred up the liquid, and set it back in and then ran the brush all around the skull that was below the surface. I think it helped get everything situated properly again.

Already seeing a significant whitening, it looks great.

[7mmfan]

What does everyone do once the skull is whitened and dried to seal them? I've read of matte finish polyurethane, or spar varnish, etc... I'd also like to keep the bark and junk at the base of the horns, do you think coating it with either of the above would work?

[Smossy]

What does everyone do once the skull is whitened and dried to seal them? I've read of matte finish polyurethane, or spar varnish, etc... I'd also like to keep the bark and junk at the base of the horns, do you think coating it with either of the above would work?

Personally I kinda like the dull look. But Yeah if you wanted to preserve it and prevent it from cracking and degrading Id just get some clearcoat polyurethane spray and do like 2 or 3 real thin coats

[sirmissalot]

A sealer helps preserve the bone and mostly helps aid in cleaning, it seals up the pores of the bone so it makes dusting skulls off a lot easier.

I use paraloid B-72. Its the same stuff museums use to preserve bone. I like a low gloss, like a satin. You can use pretty much any water white (non yellowing) clear finish.

[7mmfan]

Is there one sealant that people prefer over another? I do not want a high gloss sheen on it, but would like to have it sealed as a preservative measure. A flat or matte finish polyurethane I'm guessing?

[wildweeds]

The guy who does my buddies uses "Mop and Glo" as the topcoat,I was quite surprised at that,they look very good.

[7mmfan]

Interesting, I'll have to look into that. Thanks wildweeds.

[blindluck]

My experience using only vol 40 developer without basic white did nothing to whiten, Iam suprised reading that people are using just the cream and getting results, I must be missing something.

[emac]

Your bathroom looks as big (or should i say as small as mine)

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2

[7mmfan]

Haha emac it is small. Luckily it's not the only one so I don't have to struggle with it often.

[DIYARCHERYJUNKIE]

A sealer helps preserve the bone and mostly helps aid in cleaning, it seals up the pores of the bone so it makes dusting skulls off a lot easier.

I use paraloid B-72. Its the same stuff museums use to preserve bone. I like a low gloss, like a satin. You can use pretty much any water white (non yellowing) clear finish.

Is go with this post. 

[7mmfan]

Update: So after 1.5 days soaking in a bath, and 1.5 days in a shallow dish with creme brushed on regularly, this is the product. Such a HUGE difference. It still isn't as white as I would like it, but I could live with it. Will it whiten anymore as it dries?

Most of the discoloration that I've noticed is very spot specific, is there something that I can use to just treat those small spots that will significantly whiten them?

[wildweeds]

Looks pretty darn good to me man,I don't know about it getting any whiter as it dries but I'd guess it would.Funny thing is my uncle used to work a slaughterhouse and do the heads that had big horns on them with a steam lance and bleach and then they would sell them,complete with the air hammer group and they turned out pretty white.Fantastic job on your part I'll say!

[BOWHUNTER45]

NICE ...

[DIYARCHERYJUNKIE]

Nice work!  The spots are most likely left over grease, that was deep in the bone.  After it dries the grease works it's way out and becomes visible.  To remove any left over grease soak the skull in dawn dish soap with water and a fish tank heater.  Lots of soap.  It will completely remove the grease.  It might just take a little bit two days to two weeks.

[Smossy]

Yeah it will whiten more as it dries. The bone becomes alittle translucent when its been soaking. Once it dries that goes away and you will see less of the leftover blood/grease thats inside.

[n_mathews13]

Got my bear skull in peroxide now. Been a few days. I like to let them sit in the liquid.  Yours looks real good. Congrats

[blindluck]

Wasn't happy with how high the liquid was sitting on the skull, so had to put some "filler" in the pail. Now its sitting perfectly about 1/4" below the base of the antlers and filling the eye sockets. Looking good! I'm getting excited!

How many ounces of developer did it take to fill your tub?

[7mmfan]

I used a full 2 gallons to fill that bucket. I still think letting it soak in the peroxide helped whiten all the nooks and crannies, but I think that letting it sit in a shallower bath and brushing on the developer for the top and eye sockets worked well too, and it wouldn't be nearly as expensive.

After a week of drying or so now, the head has whitened substantially and looks awesome! I'm very happy with it. I am in the process of putting together a plaque from some old weathered cedar boards I had laying around. I think it will look really good when its done.

[sklopp93]

What ive been doing is putting the 40 volume hair creme on the skulls then wrapping them in saran wrap and putting a plastic bag over it all then put it in front of the heater for a couple hours. Turns out great

[blindluck]

I used a full 2 gallons to fill that bucket. I still think letting it soak in the peroxide helped whiten all the nooks and crannies, but I think that letting it sit in a shallower bath and brushing on the developer for the top and eye sockets worked well too, and it wouldn't be nearly as expensive.

After a week of drying or so now, the head has whitened substantially and looks awesome! I'm very happy with it. I am in the process of putting together a plaque from some old weathered cedar boards I had laying around. I think it will look really good when its done.

I went to target and bought what they call a shoe box, it's clear plastic, fits a deer head perfectly then fill up two or three ziplock bags with water to take up space, you will only need roughly 1/2 gal of peroxide or developer.

[7mmfan]

So i'm bringing this back up to get some input. The skull looked fantastic, still does really. However i've noticed that in the last week or so its started to yellow. I'm assuming this is because it wasn't degreased enough. Being my first one, I thought I had done a sufficient job, clearly not.

My question is, can I put this thing back in warm soapy water to continue degreasing at this point without damaging the skull? I'm assuming its fine, but I thought I would check first. Also, how long should I let it soak to properly degrease? I picked up an aquariam heater from a friend so I can keep the water at whatever the appropriate temperature is for as long as I need.

Any input is appreciated.

[blindluck]

You can degrease as long as it takes, I have skulls that have been in hot soapy water for the two months. Putting it back in the water now is fine. You should degrease at 115-120 degrees, it could take a few more months.

[7mmfan]

Wow alright, guess I'd better get on it. Anything other than soap that I can add to the water to facilitate the process?

[blindluck]

you can add a cup or two of ammonia in your heated water, they say that helps break down the grease and fats in the bone. I think it just takes time. All skulls seem different, I have a couple beaver and otter degreasing now. The beaver are kinda off white where the otters are blinding white.

[gunnarnewt]

very nice! 

[Crunchy]

To piggy back on this thread.  I need to figure out how to touch up my elk antlers for my euro.  They were bleached out some last summer when I left them outside in the weather during the maceration process.  I have heard to use stain, shoe polish but want to make sure I don't screw this part up.  Is there a consensus?

[Jingles]

What does everyone do once the skull is whitened and dried to seal them? I've read of matte finish polyurethane, or spar varnish, etc... I'd also like to keep the bark and junk at the base of the horns, do you think coating it with either of the above would work?

Guess you could do like the Texas skullery does and carve them