Newbie to archery - some (dumb?) questions?

[Clumber]

Howdy all, and Happy 2009!

New to archery, got a bow for my birthday (which isn't until Feb, but practice time is important, you know!) - an awesome Parker Sidekick w/ the outfitter package, b/c I don't really know what I am doing enough to know what I want/need on the bow.  I have a good friend at work who has been a bowhunter since he was maybe 3 years old (I've seen his trophy photo with a pronghorn, he couldn't have been more than 6 or 7...) so he gives me good advice and such.  BUT, he's been a military brat for most of his life, so while he has always considered Washington his home, he isn't completely familiar with rules, laws, customs, and so on specific to here.  He also has a new family with 2 kids under 3, so doesn't have enough time available  to sleep for awhile, much less study up.  He didn't even get a tag in 08, but don't say that out loud around him, it breaks his heart.  lol

So if y'all don't mind, I am going to toss out a burst of questions at you, and hopefully they won't make you picture me with a dunce cap permanently.

1. Especially with the floods of recent, and last year - I would guess that the costs of straw bales and those big wheels of straw that I think are called "archery bales" (??) have gone up... does anyone have a vague $ figure for how much they cost in Western Washington, south sound if that is important?  I sort of put a nice, neat hole through our garage door this evening (really, it was too dark for practicing when I got home from work, but I was really itching to practice some more...)  So a larger backstop is called for.  How long do the big wheels last? I mean, do they mold after a season, or are they good for awhile?

2. Is anyone aware of any beginner archery classes in the south sound area?  I'd like help with form and release consistency.

3. In the WDFW pamphlet (pg 67), it says that "Retractable styled broadheads are illegal."  Does that mean the mechanical ones are illegal here?  I don't currently plan to use them, in fact I don't have anything but field tips yet, but I am interested if this is the case, that they are illegal in Washington, or does that refer to something else?

3b.  Also in the pamphlet (also pg 67) it says "It is illegal to have any electrical equipment or device(s) attached to the bow or arrow while hunting."  Okay, I presume that would mean red dot type sights, probably cameras, and that sort of thing... but does it also forbid using those lighted nocks?

4. How does one make sure their bow is properly sighted in?  I am not consistent enough currently to do this myself (getting better each time though!) and I know the bow came advertised as sighted at the 20yd pin from the factory, but wouldn't that vary with each shooter somewhat?  (This might be a corollary question to #2)

5. I have a small game question...  with the floods, we are being absolutely inundated with rabbits in our yard.  Assuming that I can first consistently hit a rabbit-size target from several angles and distances and am confident, where would one aim on the rabbit in order to insure both a clean kill AND to avoid the horrible screaming that injured rabbits tend to do?  Eventually I would like to reduce the rabbit population in our property (a bit over an acre), but of course as quietly as possible since I have neighbors, and neighbors with kids, and I have heard the terrible piercing screams of rabbits and don't really want to have a SWAT team descend on us.  I have seen those blunted tips that are "small game tips" at Cabelas, is that what one would use?  (this year, I will probably resort to my pellet rifle with red spotlight attached to the scope since I am already spot-on with critters larger than rabbits with that.)  I should add that the rabbit invasion is so out of control that in spite of our having hunting dogs of the "Fur & Feather" persuasion, the stupid things still go in the dogs' parts of the yards, and yes we have had them retrieved to us.  Welcome fleas... yay.  I'd like to get the population under control prior to them sharing fleas and such.  We also have found some tasty-sounding recipes for rabbit.

6. Are there any fun 3D ranges around that aren't so tight-knit that a newbie would be intimidated?

7.  If you can think of any questions I should have asked, feel free to offer 'em up.   

Thanks all!

~ tracy

[1bowhunter1]

  

[bowhuntin]

Straw bales usually only cost around five dollars or you can go to sportsmans warehouse and buy an archery block for around fifty bucks then put the bales behind it.

Mechanical Broadheads and Lightednocks are illegal.

To make sure your bow is properly sighted you need to make sure that your center shot is on then you just have to adjust for the different yardages. Once you hit consistentley in groups you will know whether it is properly sighted or not.

[Bunkster]

Well, up here where I live staw is now $13-15 a bail...   I bout pooped my panties this summer.  Yet, I have bought a bag target from Sportsmans wharehouse for $50 and they last a good bit.  They are good.  For broad head practice I would go with the original block, I do not like my block 4x4.  Too hard.

Lighted knocks and lights for sights are a no-no....

Paper tuning is all I have ever needed for center shot, shooting broadheads to 80yds consistently if I practice enough...LOL...too much work.   Go to a good shop, I go to theknockpoint  Bill is a good man and can tune a bow, yowsers....

[Michelle_Nelson]

If I were you I would go to Lucky Shots Archery.  They are located at:

470 Coal Creek Rd.   
Chehalis, WA  98532

Here is their Website.

http://www.luckyshotarchery.com/

I have been down their about a dozen times and have shot my bow.  Went down their and they got my bow paper tuned and hooked up with the correct arrows. 

Give me a shout if you decide to go down their and I might be able to take a 1/2 day off and come down their and shoot with you.

[Antlershed]

1. I think I paid a little over $20 for two bales this summer. However, I learned that straw really doesn't do much in slowing down an arrow. I had to cut one out of the side of our wood shed. 

2. I'm not sure of any. Hopefully somebody else can chime in with info.

3. Retractable broadheads are illegal.

3b. Absolutely nothing electronic can be on your bow. No lighted sights, lighted nocks, cameras, etc.

4. Since you said you aren't very consistent right now, I would say get all your pins so you are at least hitting the target. Then, once you start shooting good groups, even if they are 4 inches high and right, then you can move your pins to really get them dialed in.

5. I would assume the kill zone would be the same spot on a rabbit. Put it behind the front shoulder. A broadhead that cuts 1" is going to take a lot out on a rabbit.

6. I second Michelle's suggestion of Lucky Shot archery.

[Little John]

Welcome to the archery world.
Lucky Shot is the place to go and Lonny is the man to see. He's a certified instructor. A heck of a nice guy and a Big Bull killing machine.
Learning good form can save you a ton of head ache in the future.
Your going to love it

[Clumber]

Awesome, all THANK YOU!!!

When I say I am not consistent, that is to my own standard, apparently. (According to my friend at work who rolls his eyes at me).  I am always hitting the target, and out to 20 yards I have a grouping that would easily all be within, say, a regular sheet of 8x11 paper.  15 yards and I would say easily a group all within a few inches of each other.  However, even with the tightish groupings, I am not where I can say for sure that I know where the shot will hit. I do still have a tendency to tighten my bow hand if I am not paying attn, so of course those go wide left of where I thought I was aiming.  However, I am within maybe 3-4 inches (at 20 yards) of where I expect.  I don't want to drift out much further yet until I am happier with that consistency standard.

We will be going to LuckyShot this weekend - I would say when, but we have some dog events that we aren't sure yet when and what will require our actual presence, so we need to work that out.

Go practice!  HooRAH and THANK YOU again!

~ tracy

[dbllunger]

1. Hay/Straw is extremely expensive this year.  Pushing 300/200 ton in the Basin, and you better buy it if you can get if for 200.  Round bales weigh 7-800lbs in hay and 500 in straw.  Straw will not compact into a heavy bale due to no moisture/thin fiber.  Personally I would go with Hay bales as they will last longer.  Just stagger them so if you hit the seam the second will stop or slow.  I rotate out my back four every year as they soften up.  If you have a lot of rain raise them off the ground and cover them.  Will never loose an arrow if you are doubled up. 

2. Don't know

3/3b. Expandable/Retractable heads are illegal for all hunting.  You are correct including nocks.

4. You have to be able to be consistent.  So when you are good at one range then move back and set that pin.  It is up to you do decide how consistent you should be.  I would ask that you at least be able to put 5/5 into a 6" zone for your hunting range.

5. Your shooting a rabbit.  Either hit it in the head or risk a scream.  Just comes with the territory.  Personally I would shoot a judo point.

You will ask more just sift through what everyone says and find what works for you. 

[Slider]

The DUMB question is the one you don't ask!!! Stick with it and go to a pro shop!!! Good Luck

[robb92]

The DUMB question is the one you don't ask!!! Stick with it and go to a pro shop!!! Good Luck

I agree, when I first started bow hunting, it was endless questions, always kept bugging my uncle, about this and about that