arrow suggestions for new to me elite answer 28" 60 lb max

[romaknows]

Looking for a mid grade arrow for this setup to use for elk hunting while I nurse a torn back muscle.

I picked this bow as it was known for ease of drawing and holding(lots of dwell) but it is not a fast bow with an IBO of 327 fps I think.
I am wanting to also try and get about 15% weight forward on this setup.

I normally shoot an elite e500 @ 70 lb with fmj 340 and 100 shuttle tlock.

[demontang]

Goldtip xt hunter you can put a 50grn insert weight in and get 15foc and they are very tough and have been good shooter's for my hunting set up.

[RadSav]

Pretty darn tough to beat Beman ICS shafts in the mid-price category.

[D-Rock425]

Goldtip xt hunter you can put a 50grn insert weight in and get 15foc and they are very tough and have been good shooter's for my hunting set up.

always been a goldtip hunting shaft fan.

[romaknows]

What do you think about spine?, 400  or 340?

[D-Rock425]

At 60# I'd go 400.

[D-Rock425]

I shoot a 400 with a 125 grain tip at about 65 pounds.

[RadSav]

If you are going for 15% FOC you are likely looking at a 125 grain point and a 50 grain brass insert.  You will likely be in-between spine at 60#/28" arrow length.  With that much weight and a full 28" arrow I would go with the 340 spine choice.  400 if you cut 1" off the arrow length.  If you could get another two or three pounds out of the bow...even better for the 340.

[swashington2128]

Tell me if I screwed this one up. I just ordered some Easton Bloodline arrows. 340 spine, 29.5 draw, 65 lb draw weight out of a Mathews Monster chill or Elite Synergy. 125gr broadheads and 20gr nocturnal nock. Have no idea how to set up an arrow or how to calculate FOC so some of RADSAVs unlimited knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

If this is a poor set-up please give some ways to make it better. Already paid for the arrows so ways to change inserts etc would be great.

Thanks guys, you have no idea how much the sharing of your knowledge is appreciated by us poor dumb archers really is.

[D-Rock425]

What are arrows cut to?

[swashington2128]

Sorry, 29.5 inches. Broadhead just clears the grip and my hand.

[RadSav]

Sorry, 29.5 inches. Broadhead just clears the grip and my hand.

Do you think there is 1-3/4" of arrow forward of the plunger hole?  If it "just clears" I worry your draw may be longer than the sticker claims.

[swashington2128]

I'll have to check when I get home, I was measured at 29.5 in draw. My arrow without nock or tip is 29.5 inches. Never had a problem with the broadhead or tip hitting my hand but also never looked since being at full draw and looking is kind of hard. I will get a second set of eyes on this and let you know.

[Dhoey07]

FYI, I have a 29" draw and my arrow is 26.75 with no knock or tip and it just clears my rest. 

[RadSav]

Proper arrow measurements should be made from the bottom of the nock throat to the end of the insert.

Proper draw length should be measured from the pivot point of the grip (usually directly below the plunger hole) to the string where the nock throat attaches.  D-Loop is not part of the ATA/AMO draw length standard.  This draw length is what is called your "True" draw length.  Then take that true draw length and add 1-3/4" to get your AMO draw length.  It is not uncommon for a bow set up to manufactures setting of a particular draw length to be as much as a half inch short or long.  Sometimes that's because of string stretch, excess cable twists or mods that aren't perfectly matched to a particular bow.  Since cams are often used for multiple bow designs that is understandable.

Many times I will have a bow that just doesn't shoot as good as others even though the design should be superior.  My first step in trouble shooting these bows is always to measure my "True" draw length first.  More times than not that is the issue.  Then I just have to figure out if it is due to the string, cable or mods and make whatever adjustments are necessary.

For my best shooting I've noticed my true draw length changes depending on cam design and axle-to-axle length.  For some odd reason I shoot bows exceeding 32"A2A at my true draw length of 26.75 (28.5" AMO).  But when bows end up shorter than this I find most cams and all single cams I do better with a slightly longer true draw length.  Depending on the bow that can be 27-27.25".  My personal theory is that I have an optimal eye to peep distance where I shoot best.  A VERY good shooter friend of mine who experiences the same effect believes it has to do with adding stability to the shorter bow.  I have no verifiable proof as to which of us is correct.  The only common theme is that both of us measure by wingspan in the 1/4" zone...me at 28.75" and he at 28.25".

The importance of getting draw length and arrow length measure correctly in this thread is to make sure we get the right spine.  Half inch here or there will not change the FOC numbers much.  But it could, as you saw in the difference between D-Rock and Romaknows, make a significant difference on spine choice.

[D-Rock425]

Always good info from rad.

[swashington2128]

RADSAV, answer to your question yesterday my arrow clears the riser by about 1 to 1.5". That is with no tip inserted.

[Mossberg 835]

Lots of good info here and lots of great arrows mentioned. Another to think about is Victory, with their vforce or Rip line of arrows. 400 spine would be good. I do agree a beeman ICS is hard to beat.

[Mxracer532]

I'm a big fan of Black Eagles. I shoot a 350 spine cut around the 27-27.5 mark (I think). Rampage shafts. 52gn stainless steel half outs 100gn tip Nocturnal nocks and they fly better than anything I have shot prior. Bow is a Xpedition Xcentric at 65lbs 29.5in draw.