Ford 6.0 liter turbo diesel engine?

[D-Rock425]

Anyone experience with the mid 2000's 6.0 liter from Ford.  Was looking at an 05 with low miles but sounds like a lot of people shy away from that motor.

[HUNTINCOUPLE]

Nice rig. Pick it up cheap and stuff a Cummins in her.

[NW-GSP]

Don't do it!, those trucks are plagued with problems. My buddy tried trading his in at a ford dealership and they said they would not accept any 6.0s as trade ins.

[Woodchuck]

Anyone experience with the mid 2000's 6.0 liter from Ford.  Was looking at an 05 with low miles but sounds like a lot of people shy away from that motor.

If all the upgrades have been done they are pretty good. If the upgrades have not been done you may be in for an uphill battle. 

[highside74]

Plenty of problems with the 6.0 diesel. Find a 200k mile 7.3l over a 60k 6.0. I have 2 friends with 6.0s 1 had turbo issues.  The other had oil cooler issues 8 hours from home while hunting.

http://www.powerstrokehub.com/6.0-power-stroke-problems.html

That being said, when they are fixed with upgraded parts they tend to be better.

[MagKarl]

One of the best diesel values out there in my opinion, provided you are mechanically/electrically/Google inclined.  Many well known issues, if you are a capable of diagnosing and repairing yourself you'll be fine, if you take your rigs to a shop for repairs it could be spendy.  My next rig will likely be a 6L, but I have to use up my 7.3L first...

[Grit dog]

You're correct. Now the trucks are nice, good transmissions, but......yeah the 6.0 is no gem.
I would buy that truck one of 2 ways.
1.  Significantly MORE than $5k off the book value with the plans to spend $4-5k to bulletproof it. And at that, only with record of meticulous maintenance. The 6.0 all around is much more finicky when it comes to proper maint.
2.  Still way cheaper than book and already bulletproofed by a reputable mechanic AND maint records.

There really are none to very few deals on used diesel pickups these days, so if this seems to be a deal, there's likely a reason for that.

[Jpmiller]

Same as a lot of the others in here. My company owns four of them now and I have had to send them all in either for turbo, oil cooler, or both. We have dumped over ten grand into each to get them to where the problems are supposedly fixed/upgraded. If all the work has been done already I would pull the trigger but I would assume the warning signs popped up and that's why it's being sold.

[Special T]

If you find a low milage one they can be made great. It will cost about 5k depending on how much work you can do yourself.

Bulletproof products out of  AZ and then the stud headgasket kit.

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[bowpredator]

Yep, had EGR problems with mine with in the 1st year buying it. Bought it used with 102,000 miles. At 110,000 it started acting up. Installed a Bullet Proof EGR / oil cooler kit. Also replaced injectors. Had been running great for the last 4 years with no problems. Head bolt kit is next project.

[Encore 280]

I was gonna trade my F150 in for a 6.0 until I talked to a few guys and they advised against it so I found a 2011 Cheby Silverado 2500HD with a 6.6 Duramax in it. I've had Fords for 40 years, I feel like a low life traitor now.

[Special T]

The 3 big problems revolve around oil. 1 the crappie egr design allows either oil in the coolant or coolant in oil if there is a leak. Both are bad. 2 you oil will only be cooled down to 180 max. In w WA this isn't much of an issue but where it's hot your hosed cause you oil won't be less than your coolant. 3 the crappie oil filter design relies on 2 plastic prices that get brittle and break. This prevents oil from actually circulating through the filter...
A low milage vehicle likely has not had this issue and if it has the effects are not so bad. The head studs are a problem but if your not pulling hard and keep everything cool you would have less potential problems.

Do bulletproof ingredients first then do studs.

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[Encore 280]

I don't know anything about it but I've heard that the new Ford 6.7 is sposed to be the cat's meow but I'm sure you'd spend a fortune for it too.

[jackelope]

Buy the truck and then put $5k under your mattress and save it for when the headgaskets blow and or the EGR cooler cracks/leaks. Then buy the Billetproof diesel stuff, have it installed and never look back.
That or buy a mid 2000's Duramax and drive it and never look back.

[jackelope]

The 3 big problems revolve around oil. 1 the crappie egr design allows either oil in the coolant or coolant in oil if there is a leak. Both are bad. 2 you oil will only be cooled down to 180 max. In w WA this isn't much of an issue but where it's hot your hosed cause you oil won't be less than your coolant. 3 the crappie oil filter design relies on 2 plastic prices that get brittle and break. This prevents oil from actually circulating through the filter...
A low milage vehicle likely has not had this issue and if it has the effects are not so bad. The head studs are a problem but if your not pulling hard and keep everything cool you would have less potential problems.

Do bulletproof ingredients first then do studs.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Studs are mostly not needed unless you're overboosting the turbo. If the headgaskets happen to leak, don't replace them without installing ARP head studs....that would be silly....but there's no point in ripping it apart for no other reason that to just install head studs.