help wanted newbee

[7mm ed]

I just got a recurve bow draw wieght 60 length 28. can anyone tell me what kind arrow i will need to shoot for target and hunting. and what stiffness.


         thanks ed

[rooselk]

60 pounds is a lot of bow for someone starting out. You'd be much better off with a 45 or 50 pound bow in order to develop proper form. That said, do you know your draw length? It will help in determining the proper arrow to use.

[7mm ed]

my draw length is 29

[rooselk]

So that bow is at your draw length is about 63#. Here's something you might find useful:

Tuning A Bow - by Danny Rowan

First, when I get a new bow I put the string on and get my brace set correctly. Now my instructions are for a modern recurve or longbow, not a self bow so remember that. Once I have the brace set I leave the bow strung for 24 hours to let the string streach in,don't matter the string material, let it streach in first, then reset your brace and you should be ready to go. Now I use my bow scale and a ruler to get a starting nock point and use a small piece of masking tape to mark it.

Now the arrows. I do not bare shaft or paper tune, too confusing. Here is how I determine a starting point. I take the bow weight, lets say 60#, now for every inch of draw over the standard amo of 26 I add 5#, so for my 28 inch draw that would leave me with 70# of spine,if the bow is using ff type material I add another 5# which brings us to 75# of spine. Now if I am using a point above 145gr. I add another 5# so now I have a spine of 80# with and arrow of 28 1/2" BOP. I have found that with my draw and the weight I shoot, 80# is my spine on all of my bows.

I take 6 arrows of the corecct spine and I shoot three at a time watching my arrow flight for any wobble. After the first three arrows I adjust my nock up or down depending on what I see (now I normally set my nock at 9/16 above center as I have been doing this a long time and have found that on almost all bows this is my optimum nock point for my style.) Once you find yours then you can start there on every bow you shoot and you will probably find you do not need much adjustment. Anyway, shoot three arrows in a set and adjust untill you have straight arrow flight.

I then put on the correct weight broadhead and shoot a little more to make sure.

Works very well for me. Hope some of you can use this or add to it as you wish.

I have used this formula for determing the proper arrows for my bows and it's worked for me.

Also, there are a couple of good traditional bowhunting sites out there like http://tradgang.com/ and http://www.stickbow.com/. Folks there are usually pretty good about answering any questions having to do with recurves and longbows.

[Hoytstaffshooter83]

shoot a 340 carbon arrow.. easton axis is a great arrow

[merlo105]

shoot a 2117 or a 2114 alluminum, a minamum of 125 grain broadhead 175 is good. recurves kill with energy and damage not shooting pass threw as if you shot one with a compound so heavy arrows stabalize and shoot better and kill better

[Hoytstaffshooter83]

This is a serious question, either bow kills from bleeding out of the animal.. so I understand wanting to shoot a heavier arrow for KE, either one if well placed will do the job just fine.....

[Hoytstaffshooter83]

question is, how does a recurve/long bow kill diff then a compound

[colockumelk]

Hoytstaff I have a question. I am about to buy a new bow that will shoot a good amount faster than my super old one.  I previously read that when you're shooting a faster bow in order to gain accuracy you should shoot an arrow with a stiffer shaft so that there isn't as much bend in the arrow while it flies.  I'm not buying a speed bow it's just my old one was kind of bottom of the barrell and my new one claims about 315 IBO.  I currently shoot a carbon 300 Easton Excel (10gpi) arrow. First of all do you know if the stiffer shaft theory is true and also what arrow would you recommend.  I was thinking of upgrading to the Easton Axis.

Thanks for any tips you have. 

[Hoytstaffshooter83]

Its a fine line reallt, to stiff is aklways better then not stiff enough as far as arrrows go, the 300 you are shooting now are a very heavy spine arrow... what is your draw, what type of cam is on your bow and what poundage will you be shoot it at? also the easton axis is the best hunting arrow on the market IMO.. it is all I have ever used since they have came out..... my buddy had a deer last year run 70yrds with one it it and when it fell, it fell on it and it still not did not break

[colockumelk]

I am going to buy the Bowtech Admiral.  I will be shooting a 70lb draw and my draw length is 28lbs.  I was thinking about going to the Easton Axis and if you think it's awsome then that is what I am going to get.  If the 300 is stiff then I guess I will stick with that as well.  I guess 10gpi is heavy enough.  Do you recommend going heavier for elk. 

[Hoytstaffshooter83]

at 28 in and 70 you could shoot a 340 or 300.. either will be fine.. axis are the best IMO..

[colockumelk]

One last question and this pertains to broad heads.  Currently the only thing I hunt for with the bow is elk.  I currently shoot a 100grain broadhead.  WOuld you recommend that for elk I stick with the 100 grain broadhead or go up to a 125 grain broadhead?  Thanks again for the help. 

[Hoytstaffshooter83]

100 is more then enough, My bull I shot 2 years ago I hit high in the lungs with a muzzy mx4.. 100 grain 4 blade on a axis 340 at 28.5 in from a hoyt trykon xl at 59 lbs shooting 260 and he went down in under 80 yrds.....

[colockumelk]

I currently shoot the Muzzy 3 blade 100 grain and love them.  I was just wondering because I hear about all these guys who shoot like 450 grain arrows and mine is only like 380.  So I didn't know if maybe I was too light or something.  So I guess I will stick with the Muzzy 3 blade 100 grain broadhead.  I'll stick with the 300 Easton's although I'm going to switch to the Axis.  Thank you very very much Hoyt.  You have saved me alot of research and money and time.  I owe you a