7mm Sight in help

[nwbow87]

Have you lapped the rings, and are all the rings tightened to factory spec? Unsymmetrical tightening as well as ring alignment can cause that issue. Also, make sure the rings are tight to the rail (I was the guy).

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[rudysts]

Try finding a gunsmith that can slug the barrel then measure it. 

Then you have a better idea of what size/caliber you have.

You should not be able to push a 7mm .284 bullet through the muzzle without resistance. the bore diameter of a 7mm is .277 on average some .276. so that would explain your accuracy issues.

[bobcat]

Try finding a gunsmith that can slug the barrel then measure it. 

Then you have a better idea of what size/caliber you have.

You should not be able to push a 7mm .284 bullet through the muzzle without resistance. the bore diameter of a 7mm is .277 on average some .276. so that would explain your accuracy issues.

But he didn't push a bullet through the muzzle. He only inserted the tip of the bullet.

[JimmyHoffa]

You can get a home kit to slug the barrel yourself too.  Accraglass kits work, so if you have left over from a bedding job could use it.
Would need a better picture of how the crowning was done before thinking a bore mismatch from that bullet test, though.

[Bill W]

If he was able to push a 7mm bullet in as far as he did, either the bullet is a 2 diameter bullet OR the front end of the barrel has the rifling boogered up by improper cleaning.   I think 2 diameter bullets are a thing of the past.  Mike the bullet just ahead of the cannelure and report the findings.

[JimmyHoffa]

Yeah, the only 2 dia instances I can think of are for .30 cal and 8 mm; but I was curious if there are cases for the 7 mm.
When inserting the bullet into the muzzle, can it be rotated over the lands?

[yorketransport]

If he was able to push a 7mm bullet in as far as he did, either the bullet is a 2 diameter bullet OR the front end of the barrel has the rifling boogered up by improper cleaning.   I think 2 diameter bullets are a thing of the past.  Mike the bullet just ahead of the cannelure and report the findings.

If the interior of the barrel looks anything like the exterior, that barrel has been used and abused. I'm not very familiar with the specific bullet in that ammo, but I don't see anything obviously wrong with how deep it rests in the muzzle. It's probably resting right on the ogive where it should be.

Do you have any pictures of the target? Do you know the rifling twist rate of the barrel? Have you tried a lighter weight bullet?

It's possible your barrel has a twist that just won't work well with a 175gr bullet. Combine a 175gr bullet in a 1-11" twist barrel with a worn muzzle and some pitting in the bore and you've got a guaranteed mediocre shooter. The faster 1-9.5" twist wasn't always the common twist found in factory guns.Savage used a 1-11.5" twist for years on their 7mm barrels.

[RadSav]

In my opinion poor/worn out barrels produce bad groups, but not flyers.  Poor rings and scopes produce bad groups, but rarely result in consistent flyers.  Consistency of flyers is almost always a product of poor bedding, sticky trigger, bind in the ammo box, or poor torque as rudysts mentioned.  Good chance it's a combination of those.

My suggestion would be to have a good smith check the barrel.  No sense in trying to solve a flyer problem if the barrel will never produce groups.  If the barrel is ok then start the process to eliminate binding in the action and/or box.

If it's the lightweight barrel model, don't be afraid to start off with a neutral full length bed.  Two of my top three shooters were mediocre shooting lightweights until I full length bed the barrel.  The Kimber went from a 3" gun to a 1/2 inch gun after doing nothing more than full bed and eliminating a box bind.

On a separate note:  I shoot a lot of Core-Lokts and a lot of 7mm.  I have yet to own a 7mm that likes the Remington 175 grain Core-Lokt.  Never experienced flyer problems with it though.

[jasnt]

Just have it checked by a gunsmith and go from there