help me out here please

[Bofire]

I used to hunt with a bow, when Jennings model T was NEW. Never real serious.
I am thinking about re-trying it. I am 56 , still in good shape but not 25, OK?
I dont want to make a major investment, without trying things, kinda testing the water, so I am thinking about hitting a Hock Shop and buying some bow, 100-150$ range, just to see if I really want to do this.
I may never hunt, just use it for fun, target practice, and it weems like it might be a bit of a "workout" to shoot it a hundred times or so.

What do ya think? Maybe go to some Bow shop? If I get into it,I'll want top quality. But right now I know nothing.
thanks for any advice.
Carl

[boneaddict]

Hmmmm....not ignoring you, just wondering what kind of advice to give.  I say give it a try, but not sure what the best advice would be.  You might hit a hop (sportsmans or local) and give a couple bows a pull.  You'll get better assistance at most local shops. More selection of stuff at the big chain stores.  Someone like Pacyew who deals or has dealt with more archery stuff might be able to give better advice.

It is very relaxing and great exercise for body and mind.  Not to mention very satisfying if you gt into hunting with one.

[jackelope]

craigslist usually has a few bows near that price range.

[LongTatLaw]

Dont buy a used bow at some pawn shop. The bottom level bows arent amazing but they shoot straight. You can try some bows at Olympic Archery or Sportsmans warehouse but almost anything they show ya will just be a tease and probably start around 500$.

If ya wanna dable, Id buy a walmart bow. You might be able to get on around 150-200 new in the box with sights and a rest. Nothing fancy but it will get ur feet wet. Used bows tend to become a money pit or are so old they are crap.

Get the wally world special or maybe sportsmans warehouse might have some super cheap bows in plastic on the shelf near the pop up ground blinds that will be way cheaper than the stuff they have on the shelf.

The cheaper bows will probably be pretty slow and pretty plain. Probably gonna be 36-42' where as most of the compound bow hunters these days shoot 32' bows give or take. Probably a pse is ya get it at walmart.

Im guessing your not gonna want or get a bow that has a max draw weight of more than 60 pounds. But for what you want it will work fine. The bow will probably have 65% let off and a 60 pound bow could probably back off to 45 or so with 3 full turns from completely tight. Start off with light draw weight to get the shoulders ready. It has nothing to do with being strong its weird muscles that you dont have because they just dont come from much else. The age factor can be an issue too so start light and move up slow.

If ya want you can look at walmart and sportsmanswarehouse and take notes. See what you can find in your price range and email me/ message me and Ill help ya sort through it! Ebay and craigslist are also a possibility depending on how computer savvy you are... if ya see something sexy send me a link and Ill give it a look see!

Pins arent a big concern for you but Im picky about my rest... but rests can be as cheap as 20$ and you can use the one that comes with it until you decide ...if you decide... you wanna change.

Arrows arent expensive unless you want them to be. They start about 30$ for a half dozen and practice tips are like 20 for 2$. After a while if you want to improve accuracy the arrows can be upgraded. A top of the line arrow cut and fletched is around 10-12$ each.

If you are shooting practice tips you can buy a 20$ target and its gonna last a while. Or buy a 60$ BLOCK style target... I shoot mine with broadheads and its taken thousands of shots.

Im not sure how much info you want or need... but, look at the two stores and let me know some models that caught your eye in ur price range. Ill help ya wade through it... but I wouldnt suggest you go out and buy the top of the line bow set up...thats gonna run ya basically 1,000$ by the time you head in the woods.

If ya wanna know details on more complicated issues that come up while shopping let me know.

Email me with specific issues or to weed through the choices!

Axel to axel length -
brace height
carbon versus aluminum versus hybrid arrows
overdraws
speed / performance
pin sights versus pendulum versus rifle sights
kisser buttons versus peep sights
release versus fingers - affected by axel to axel length
tuning - paper versus mechanical
ect

[LongTatLaw]

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=3946747

this is the buckmasters BTR compound bow kit

its 183$ brand new with 3 pin site, rest, and quiver

36inches axel to axel

add 6-12 CARBON arrows and your ready to play.

[pacyew]

Go LongTatLaw! Good advice!

[Bofire]

I agree and thank you, just the sort of info I need and thanks for the offer. I started looking, know nothing and was hesitant to spent a 1000 in total ignorance!!
Thanks again LongTatlow!!
Should I get one of those loop things and a mechanical release? Or just finger shoot?
Carl

[arrowflinger]

With what I understand, the loop works great with the new drop away rest. But, I would go with a good release.

[billythekidrock]

Should I get one of those loop things and a mechanical release?

With what I understand, the loop works great with the new drop away rest. But, I would go with a good release.

Yes, a "D" loop and a good release will help eliminate torque and improve accuracy. Make sure that the loop is tied on correctly with alternating knots. (a good tech can do it the first time and show you how)

T.R.U. Ball makes great releases at many different price points.

Before checking pawnshops you might want to check some of the archery shops for used gear. Most of the stuff at the pawnshops is really old and it can be hard to replace parts or cables. The used gear at the archery shops is usually better then used gear at pawnshops.
Good luck.

[LongTatLaw]

I have been using a string loop for about 8 years. I find that clipping my release straight to the string will cause arrows to fall off during draw about 25% of the time. but I shoot a 32" bow. If the bow is 36" that might drop down to 10-15%. Thats about 110% to often for me as a hunter. With a 40" bow no loop is necessary.

On the release versus fingers... again, a 36" bow is very hard to properly draw with fingers and Id say a 34 or shorter is IMPOSSIBLE to properly draw with fingers. A 42" bow could draw fingers all day.

As for the release... I have spent a lot of money on bow equipment... My arrows are as expensive as anything on the market...my sites are too. My release is a cobra and its 6 years old.... I probably bought it for 18$ at walmart when I did buy it.
Many many people would argue with me but a release is NOT the place I max out the equipment. and not hunting means tiny sound differences dont matter... so Id say dont spend over 30$ on a release but thats me.

On rests, I shoot a whisker biscuit because its simple and I can tune my own bow...and I mechanically tune it about once a week during hunting season. If ya dont know, tunning is just the name for aligning the rest, arrow knocking point, and bow limbs and risor. If a bow isnt tuned you can adjust sites to make the arrow hit where you want but the arrow flight is wrong, arrows fly wrong...spin wrong...perform wrong. This causes accuracy problems, poor penetration, inconsistent shot groups, ect. Theres tons of great rests. A plain whisker biscuit starts at about 25$, a whisker with easy arrow placement opening is more like 40$. TM Hunter makes a very simple 2 prong cradle rest thats inexpensive....

The high end rests are over 100$. such as some of the drop away rests (IE muzzy zero effect). Many people like those but most of them are cable driven which can steal speed and power. Then again...so does the whisker biscuit that I shoot...lol

If ya end up getting the one I sent the link for above or some other new bow kit...most will come with sights and a rest...play with those for a month or two... dont replace what ya have until ya decide theres a reason to do so!

If ya want some advice on a brand new amazing cutting edge bow for 700-900$ Ill put ya on one of those too...but sounds like the wrong way for you to go IMO!

let me know if your still lacking info...and ask a direct question if my rambling doesnt answer your question...lol

I can talk bows all day long!

[rainshadow1]

Carl,

I've kinda faded out of bowhunting myself, but I wanted to stay equipt, just in case.

I needed to replace my obselete and busted bow, so I started watching e-bay, and  found a seller that does exclusively archery stuff. I got a 70lb Jennings Carbonmaster Extreme delivered for about $160. Brand New, warranteed. Really happy. Exactly what I needed, I'm equipt, cheap, and it shoots better than my old $500 bow, and I'm not worried about locking it up or keeping it from getting scratched.

I used to shoot a LOT, but have backed off. I shoot pure instinctive, so maintaining sights isn't an issue, and I shoot a release ever since I first had problems with carpal tunnel, so that allows automatic consistency.

Quiver, arrows, broadheads, my old release... Under $200.

[Intruder]

Any of your friends have 1 you can borrow for a season?

[Armadillo]

Sorry not trying to hijack the thread but I wanna get into archery and have been looking at the fred bear odyssey 2. Sounds like a good setup for the price. I know nothing about bows. Shot my uncles primitive compound for an hour in my yard thats it.

[bowhuntin]

Armadillo you should check out this website huntersfriend.com it has a bunch of information that you can read through to better understand compounds, plus it has some good deals on 2007 model bows including a some fred bears. I don't know how much you are looking to spend bet that website should get you started.

[Slider]

I would look at E-Bay for a High end Bow a couple years old. Mathews,Bowtech or Hoyt. You should be able to pick up a fully outfitted bow for 300? And yes use a D-loop and a release. If you don't know which models to look at send me a PM and I'll help you. Good Luck