Anchor point question

[vandeman17]

I have always shot my bow with my anchor point being the end of my release touching the corner of my mouth. I have been a believer that it isn't so much where you anchor but more so being consistent with it but at the same time, almost all shooters I watch have it anchored much different. Thoughts?

[Timberstalker]

When I first started shooting, I struggled with an anchor point, as I was always shooting a pure backtension release.  I added a small kisser button above the knock, and it has been flawless.

[vandeman17]

When I first started shooting, I struggled with an anchor point, as I was always shooting a pure backtension release.  I added a small kisser button above the knock, and it has been flawless.

I have thought about that and that would also shorten my draw and require me to move my peep. It's all dialed in where it's at but just feel like it could be a little more solid.

[cbond3318]

My anchor point differs from everyone as well but, like you said, I too believe consistency in your anchor is paramount compared to where your anchor actually is.

Works fine for me at least...

[Timberstalker]

When I first started shooting, I struggled with an anchor point, as I was always shooting a pure backtension release.  I added a small kisser button above the knock, and it has been flawless.

I have thought about that and that would also shorten my draw and require me to move my peep. It's all dialed in where it's at but just feel like it could be a little more solid.

If you are anchoring your release at the corner of your mouth, you would simply lower your hand, to get the kisser to your mouth.  This shouldn't affect draw length at all.  You're simply lowering your anchor point.

[Rainier10]

I just anchor the same everytime and am pretty consistent.  Not sure if there is a textbook spot to anchor or just what works for you and stick with it.  Looking forward to some more responses.  I hope  before long @RadSav will chime in with his thoughts.

[vandeman17]

When I first started shooting, I struggled with an anchor point, as I was always shooting a pure backtension release.  I added a small kisser button above the knock, and it has been flawless.

I have thought about that and that would also shorten my draw and require me to move my peep. It's all dialed in where it's at but just feel like it could be a little more solid.

If you are anchoring your release at the corner of your mouth, you would simply lower your hand, to get the kisser to your mouth.  This shouldn't affect draw length at all.  You're simply lowering your anchor point.

True. I guess I just pictured my hand being farther forward but I guess that's not necessarily true. I have a single pin sight so if I did go this route and raised he peep to accommodate, would I have to completely adjust everything. Trying to picture the math and angles in my head...

[Stalkin Prey]

I've only been slinging arrows for a little less then a yr, when I first started I had issues with being consistent. I added a small kisser button as well and it helped out tremendously. In my opinion everyone is different and what works well for one person may not work for someone else. I also tend to geek out on some nock on videos as well with John Dudley.


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[Timberstalker]

When I first started shooting, I struggled with an anchor point, as I was always shooting a pure backtension release.  I added a small kisser button above the knock, and it has been flawless.

I have thought about that and that would also shorten my draw and require me to move my peep. It's all dialed in where it's at but just feel like it could be a little more solid.

If you are anchoring your release at the corner of your mouth, you would simply lower your hand, to get the kisser to your mouth.  This shouldn't affect draw length at all.  You're simply lowering your anchor point.

True. I guess I just pictured my hand being farther forward but I guess that's not necessarily true. I have a single pin sight so if I did go this route and raised he peep to accommodate, would I have to completely adjust everything. Trying to picture the math and angles in my head...

The only reason you will need to move the peep, is if it is too low to accommodate a full circle through your peep, or if your site bottoms out.
You'll likely have to move it, but without seeing your bow for myself, I cannot say. 

The way I set up plenty of kisser buttons is with a piece of electrical tape in place; you can use this as temporary to at least draw the bow and see what you like or dislike.

Try it out and see where you get.

[Cab]

The textbook for anchor is so that you end of your D-loop is align with the corner of your eye. That said its hard to say if what you are doing is right or wrong because I can't see the rest of your form. The way I look at it is your anchor point needs to do 2 things: it needs to be the same every time and it needs to be a point that creates proper form when it is reached. if its too far forward or too far back(to far back is common) your body will be all out of wack. I often see guys putting their thumbs behind their neck and their hips are so off center and they're literally leaning backwards to reach their anchor point. Everyones body is different so as long as your anchors does the 2 things I listed you're all set. Just for reference here is a picture of proper anchoring (fyi this isn't me in the photo)

[lord grizzly]

Mines just like the above picture.anchor is Index knuckle where my ear meets my jaw line and nose on the string. I don't know if that's the "right" form but i do know consistency is what counts

[RadSav]

Anchor point gets lots of attention.  But it's not necessarily an absolute for good shooting.  It's the foundation to get you into the shot properly, to get your peep lined up properly but that's where the anchor system stops in importance these days.  If you think about it...Pro Freestyle Target shooters almost always out shoot hunters.  Even without powered lenses.  And because they use a single sliding pin/aperture their anchor point must change constantly to keep centered in the peep.  Besides needing the extra peep height for longer shots with low poundage,  that's why most top target archers put knuckles into the jaw rather than something into the corner of the mouth.  This way they can come into the shot properly, anchor in a set spot, then open the mouth (dropping the jaw) to find peep center.

For fixed pin shooters with limited range and using pin housing each time this vertical adjusting anchor is less important and the corner of the mouth suits the purpose easily.  But it does limit your ability to extend range as the sight quickly starts to interfere with the path of the arrow.  Lowering anchor to the jaw will raise the peep and thus raise/increase the distance between the arrow and the pin.  Allowing for longer range pins without interference with the arrow.

With short bows and low anchor points it's often difficult to have a secondary anchor point such as the tip of your nose touching the string.  You don't want to reach for a secondary anchor by tilting the head forward as that defeats the purpose.  And you don't want to lengthen your draw length much as that can be a form destroyer.  So sometimes it's necessary to shorten your release, buy a release with a shorter head, and/or shorten the D-Loop.  This allows for a slight increase to the bows draw length without having to anchor longer in draw.  My personal draw length is between 28.5 and 28.75".  And on most bows that allows me plenty to anchor well into the jaw and still have secondary anchor and centered vision through the peep.  But one of my favorite hunting bows is the Bear Assault (a single cam with 30.75" A2A).  Using the Quickie II release and a shortened D-Loop allows me to shoot that bow at 29" draw length.  It really fits me well and shoots better than you could ever imagine a 31" single cam could.  Even if it's a half inch long in draw length.

[stromdiddily]

You said you shoot a mover...at what distance do you set your peep to anchor comfortably?

If you feel like the front half of your form is good, just play with loop length and/or release length if possible. If the goal is to anchor farther back on your face, just tie on a longer loop

[Special T]

I personally think anchor points that don't move are the best ones. They promote muscle memory, and since consistency is what is important a non moveable place is what I like. 

I shoot a scott wrist strap caliper.  My thumb knuckle  is at the base of my scull and my  pointer finger knuckle is in the base of my ear between the love and cartilage.

I have friends that shoot palm style triggers and most use the ear or joint in the jaw or something else solid that does not move.

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