chainsaw sharpening

[timberfaller]

For the wood cutter using round tooth chain, What fish vacuum posted is a good product, Granberg(sp) made one too and Sthil has their version.

If you have the money and want to use "chisel" chain,  find a Silvey Razor Sharp II     and carry extra sharpened loups.

NOW, it you want the Cadillac of sharpeners here it is!

http://www.baileysonline.com/shop.axd/ProductDetails?edp_no=14238

[j_h_nimrod]

Lots of good information so far.  I have used bare files up to nice chain grinders and each has its place. I usually only go through ~1 chain per 4-6 cords depending on wood cleanliness an if I am doing a lot of cutting where I might occasionally touch the turf. A lot of what I do is pretty dirty cutting so chain life varies. If I am in the field I will either use a bare file or a file mounted guide. I have used the bar mounted guides but they take more experience to use correctly. If you follow the factory cut and take an even stroke on each tooth, you should cut fairly straight. Tighten the chain on the bar before filing to reduce wobble and try to be as consistent as possible. It is hard to get a chain as sharp as factory but with some work it is possible. Use a sharp file and keep it clean, don't just throw it around or in a kit with other files and tools. There is not a much easier way to ruin a file while not using it.

If in the shop a good grinder can make a great chain but a bad grinder or inexperienced operator can destroy a chain easily. Go slow and measure tooth length to get the best results.

With experience you can tailor your chains to your work, more rake (+\- 30 degrees) is better for bucking and rough cutting while less rake (+\- 5 degrees) is better for milling.  Adjust your rakers as well, after ~1/3 of the tooth is gone it is necessary to adjust the rakers to get a good cut. There are a lot of different gauges to tune the rakers based on tooth wear.

Watch your chips to determine when to sharpen. If you fave nice big chips things are good. The closer to sawdust you are means you need to sharpen or take your rakers down (if the chain is sharp). Even tooth sharpening is very important if you want straight cuts.

[j_h_nimrod]

For the wood cutter using round tooth chain, What fish vacuum posted is a good product, Granberg(sp) made one too and Sthil has their version.

If you have the money and want to use "chisel" chain,  find a Silvey Razor Sharp II     and carry extra sharpened loups.

NOW, it you want the Cadillac of sharpeners here it is!

http://www.baileysonline.com/shop.axd/ProductDetails?edp_no=14238

Good advice, but for the typical user, I would stay away from chisel cut chains. Cut great but very hard to sharpen properly. Most I know that run them use them until dull and then resharpen with a round file.

If you are only cutting a few cords a year you are money ahead buying a few good chains and using a file or having a shop sharpen them. The grinders tak a lot of sharpening to pay off.

[KFhunter]

[Happy Gilmore]

I dust off a chain by hand at least 4-5 times a day when I'm cutting wood. Round file with gloves on. Stick the handle in the corner of the tailgate then spin it around and pull it at me. Might file a rake with a flat file once if I'm cutting a lot in a day. It aint rocket science. Sure, getting a chain back from the shop is sweet but, keeping it clean and a quick filing by hand 4-5 times a day is going to cut faster than swapping chains every time you hit a schwetty log or two.

[Humptulips]

Cutting in circles doesn't mean that one side is dull.  Put a caliper on the teeth and check them...you are filing one side more than the other.  That overly ground side is not doing any real work. 

This-
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y0S88Y8/ref=asc_df_B00Y0S88Y85042770/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00Y0S88Y8&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198076851563&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12921248880502675032&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033489&hvtargid=pla-320836411855

+this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KL3OJ8/ref=asc_df_B005KL3OJ85042769/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B005KL3OJ8&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167125219398&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10021758507272068844&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033489&hvtargid=pla-311057806051

I beg to differ. A chain that is dull on one side will run. It's fine to sharpen both sides equally but if he is not getting both sides sharp it will go in a circle as he says.
I think more then likely his problem is not filing both sides at the same angle.
Watch those file guides!

[Doublelunger]

Make sure to maintain a gullet while you sharpen...the half moon shape of the tooth. Lots of guys just hit the very top cutting edge of the tooth and over time youl loose that half moon and it wont cut smooth.

[Skyvalhunter]

Unless you sharpen with a flat file or a chainsaw chain grinder then you will not have that half moon and it will cut a lot better

[huntingfool7]

Cutting in circles doesn't mean that one side is dull.  Put a caliper on the teeth and check them...you are filing one side more than the other.  That overly ground side is not doing any real work. 

This-
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y0S88Y8/ref=asc_df_B00Y0S88Y85042770/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00Y0S88Y8&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198076851563&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12921248880502675032&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033489&hvtargid=pla-320836411855

+this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KL3OJ8/ref=asc_df_B005KL3OJ85042769/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B005KL3OJ8&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167125219398&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10021758507272068844&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033489&hvtargid=pla-311057806051

I beg to differ. A chain that is dull on one side will run. It's fine to sharpen both sides equally but if he is not getting both sides sharp it will go in a circle as he says.
I think more then likely his problem is not filing both sides at the same angle.
Watch those file guides!

Maybe. 
Teeth are angled and the more they're sharpened the shorter they get.  Most average Joe homeowners can feel that they get a better bite on the file in one direction.  This will cause the teeth on one side to be higher than the other.  The high side does the cutting. 
A lot of the machine grinders will take more off on one side than the other.  Just flopping the grinder to the pre set notches does not guarantee that the job is done right.

[TommyH]

Almost forgot, WEAR SHADES! Or saftyglasses when sharpening. I try to have the wind at my back blowing the metal shavings away from my eyes. This lesson I learned the hard way! Those metal shavings don't feel good at all scratching around in your eye!!!!

[b23]

It takes to long to file in the field. Carry an extra chain and swap if you ground one

Sure an extra chain is smart, but it only takes a few minutes to sharpen a chain with a hand file and less when your getting yelled at or the skidder is allready back lol.

Soooo true!  Working in the woods you learn REAL fast how to maintain a saw.

Something most people due when they are learning to sharpen a chain is they think they need to apply pressure to the file, you don't, and when you're just learning to sharpen a chain and you apply pressure, it makes it harder to follow the factory angle/curve of the chain because the file is digging in and taking to big of a bite.  Minimal pressure is all you need, let the file do the work not your muscles.  Unless you have a messed up chain from getting it down in the dirt and rocks, you shouldn't need more than a few light strokes of the file. 

Again, next to no pressure on the file will make it much easier for you to follow the factory contour/angle of the chain.  Also, with very light minimal pressure it will make it easier to hold the proper angle on your file the full stroke.

I don't know that I'd mess with taking down the rakes until you are more fluent with what you are doing.  Done properly it'll definitely make your saw cut a little better/faster but take to much off and your saw can become much more dangerous to handle.

[KFhunter]

When I was working in the woods no one showed me how to file a chain, I was fresh out of high school and all I ever used was farm saws, and the chains were always taken to the saw shop. 

So while I knew not to rock it and I knew not drag dirt through the log on a dirty log but to saw so the chain is throwing the dirt off the log..I never really learned to file a chain properly.


Now put me on the landing with turns showing up every few minutes and I got behind with a dull saw even though I was fast otherwise.  I was suppose to be knocking the ears off and squaring up logs.  Anyways, I got yelled at - a lot   



Now it's this *thing* that I have, I want super sharp chains.  Maybe I'll work on hand sharpening as I can't be a pro until I can hand file a chain properly 

[j_h_nimrod]

One topic beyond having a sharp chain is having a clean bar. I have seen a number of occasions where someone swears their chain is sharp and evenly filed but can't seem to cut at all or cuts with a curve. Take a look at the bar, frequently there will be a burr formed on the edge of the rails that will keep you from cutting well, or in bad cases the rails will not be even allowing the chain to cant and cut crooked.

Flip your bar at least every new chain and check the edge for burrs any time you are sharpening.

[KFhunter]

This is what I'm going with. 


https://granberg.com/product/g1012xt-precision-grinder-12v/