Lightweight/Mountain Rifle shooting tips

[7mmfan]

It's no secret that the super lightweight, compact rifles have gained a ton of popularity the last few years. I myself have the Model 700 Mountain LSS in 7mm-08. I've struggled with the gun since I got it, and I always amounted it to being a temperamental gun that I haven't found the right load for.

More recently, I've come to the conclusion that I don't have a clue how to handle these ultra lightweight rifles. Ugh.

In the research that I've done, I've picked up 2 main tips that have helped me dial in the gun better. But I'm looking for more. Here is what I have found to be true.

1. Don't rest your rifle on hard rests (sand bags, hard packs, rocks, etc...) out towards the end of your stock. That small amount of pressure can change your POI a fair amount.

2. These guns get hot FAST. Really space your shots out, and 1 at a time.

What other tips do you guys with more experience have that could help a new lightweight rifle shooter?

[Rainier10]

What have you found to rest it on instead?

[Magnum_Willys]

For range work Put your front rest as far back as possible.  Barrel cooler works cuts cool time in half. 
Your scope should be on target before you grip it. Try gently getting a firm grip on it without moving crosshairs. Yes hand on forend .  Say "squeeeeeze" as you squeeze trigger.

[highside74]

What have you found to rest it on instead?

I don't think he meant don't do it at all. I think he is meaning keep it closer to the action where the support is better.

[Rainier10]

What have you found to rest it on instead?

I don't think he meant don't do it at all. I think he is meaning keep it closer to the action where the support is better.

[7mmfan]

What have you found to rest it on instead?

I don't think he meant don't do it at all. I think he is meaning keep it closer to the action where the support is better.

  I could have been more specific. Moving my rest point from the end of the stock, back much closer to the action made a significant difference for me.

[Bushcraft]

You must take into account Newton's Third Law: For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction.

Every shooter realizes that the rifle and bullet travel in opposite directions, but I suspect very few understand just how much the rifle moves while the bullet is still traveling down the barrel.  It's quite a lot relatively speaking, more so with lightweight rifles.  Allowing the rifle to recoil through this period without imparting external (and variable) forces into the system is absolutely critical for accuracy.

Heavy rifles shooting lightweight bullets are inherently accurate precisely because there isn't a lot a shooter can do to impart excessive variable external forces into the rifle during recoil.  For example, pretty much anyone can lay down behind my Ruger Precision Rifle chambered in 6.5 Creedmor outfitted with a Nightforce 5-25X56 A.T.A.C.R. and drill holes in a dime at 100 yards.  There's almost no recoil and it is an absolute pleasure to shoot.  Aside from muzzle blast - which can be easily minimized by doubling up with hearing protection and shooting it at a venue that doesn't reflect the blast effect, it's unlikely one will develop a bad flinch.

At the other end of the spectrum are lightweight mountain rifles. To reduce weight, they often have incredibly lightweight stocks that tend to not be nearly as stiff as their heavier, canyon crossing counterparts.  A little extra flinch or pressure applied to the stock at varying places - to include the fore end, grip, cheek weld and shoulder pressure, and you have a recipe for relatively poor results.  Then too there is the whole "Newton Third Law Thing"...they can also kick like a mule and create bad flinching habits!  I need to be very careful to hold my little Kimber Montana in .308 Win. loaded with some very stiff medicine perfectly every single time I trip the sear, or my groups will inexplicably balloon from an acceptable 1-1.5" MOA to an embarrassing 3-4 MOA or worse.  The rifle system only weighs 5.95 lbs. with a scope, three rounds and a sling.  And I hate shooting full power loads through it.  It's certainly not nearly as abusive as a 500 NE, but it definitely catches your attention and it harbors no secrets about wanting to carve a crescent above the bridge of your nose if you're not careful about eye relief.  There's no way I'd let my wife or children or new shooters try it.  They'd swear off shooting as a fun activity! 

This isn't to say they can't be shot accurately.  As with all shooting, they key to good results is to do everything exactly the same every single time regardless the weight of the rifle.  If you can accurately shoot a lightweight rig with a high degree of consistency, you're going to become an excellent shooter of other heavier platforms.  For the little Kimber, I've found letting it free recoil results in piss poor results.  My best groups are with the rifle snugged STRAIGHT back into the pocket of my shoulder (with no room for lateral or torsional recoil), with the fore-end resting on something firm but not hard a few inches in front of the action, and my left hand holding firmly down and back on the front scope ring.  I'm realistically constraining my effective max range on deer sized critters down to 350 yards tops given the Barnes 168 gr. TTSX's terminal velocity, so I'm okay with this setup for what it is.  Perhaps it goes without saying, but cold/cool bore shots are mandatory.

If I know I'm going to be hunting in an area where a little more reach is warranted, I'm stepping up to a 300 WSM.  It weighs several more pounds, but it's more forgiving, is incredibly accurate, and still has plenty of steam out to 600-650 yards to cleanly dispatch a deer sized critter with a well placed shot.

Like Newton's Third Law...There's always a trade-off.

Good shooting,

Allen

[7mmfan]

That's a great logical response for anyone thinking about "upgrading" to a lightweight rifle. Lots to consider

[elkboy]

Always amazed at the knowledge out there on this forum. Thanks for sharing, Bushcraft!

I have found I am happy to haul a heavier rifle on back country hunts for the additional steadiness, especially when I am breathing heavily from exertion or excitement. That may change, however, as the years roll by...

[James]

I take multiple dry fires between shots.  This helps keep the barrel cool by spacing out the shots and I know if I am in the zone and doing everything properly if the scope stays solid on the dry fire. I don't take real shots until the dry fire is where I want it to be.

[2MANY]

The #1 best tip is to buy a quality gun from a quality source.
Call Travis @ RBROS.

I've been a factory gun guy my whole life until last year.
I will NEVER buy another.

My name is Brett and I approve this message.

[Rainier10]

The #1 best tip is to buy a quality gun from a quality source.
Call Travis @ RBROS.

I've been a factory gun guy my whole life until last year.
I will NEVER buy another.

My name is Brett and I approve this message.

What are two of the biggest improvements or benefits that you have found with a custom rifle over an off the shelf factory rifle?

[h20hunter]

Here is one I think 7mm would agree with.

Shoot in the field. Amazingly,  I'm better off the bench than a stump!

Practice practice practice.

[Bushcraft]

The #1 best tip is to buy a quality gun from a quality source.
Call Travis @ RBROS.

I've been a factory gun guy my whole life until last year.
I will NEVER buy another.

My name is Brett and I approve this message.

What are two of the biggest improvements or benefits that you have found with a custom rifle over an off the shelf factory rifle?

#1 Barrel Quality
#2 Barrel Quality
#3 Action Quality
#4 Trigger Quality
#5 How well the Action is mated to a Stiff Stock.

In his great book, "Rifle Accuracy Facts", Harold Vaughn keenly illustrates that a barrel is responsible for approximately 85% of a rifle's inherent accuracy.  The rest of it is additive, including choice of ammunition.

[2MANY]

The #1 best tip is to buy a quality gun from a quality source.
Call Travis @ RBROS.

I've been a factory gun guy my whole life until last year.
I will NEVER buy another.

My name is Brett and I approve this message.

What are two of the biggest improvements or benefits that you have found with a custom rifle over an off the shelf factory rifle?

#1 Barrel Quality
#2 Barrel Quality
#3 Action Quality
#4 Trigger Quality
#5 How well the Action is mated to a Stiff Stock.

In his great book, "Rifle Accuracy Facts", Harold Vaughn keenly illustrates that a barrel is responsible for approximately 85% of a rifle's inherent accuracy.  The rest of it is additive, including choice of ammunition.

Agreed.
Probably the last thing is 100% proven load data.
Proper gun + Proper load = Dividends.
You WILL shoot better then you ever thought you could.

[7mmfan]

Here is one I think 7mm would agree with.

Shoot in the field. Amazingly,  I'm better off the bench than a stump!

Practice practice practice.

When it comes to making the shot when it counts, this is 100% true. Bench time only does so much for you when you find yourself shooting off a stump, sticks, pack, free hand, etc...

[Alchase]

What other tips do you guys with more experience have that could help a new lightweight rifle shooter?

I shoot my Sako Finlight exactly like I shoot all my other rifles.
Just practice with it until it becomes a part of you.

[CaNINE]

With my Montana 280AI I put the front rest under the front action screw, lightly hold the forend with my offhand and then focus on all the shooting fundamentals. Breath and trigger control are magnified with the lightweight rifle. I really encourage hunters to practice with their rifles, especially the lightweights, from a variety of field rest positions. And confirm how accurately you can execute shots in the field. For me I consider the Montana a 400 yard gun maximum. Not because of the cartridge but because of its handling charachteristics. It sure is a pleasure to carry and shooting offhand at close ranges is deadly medicine.