LED light bar wiring help

[Ridgeratt]

Wire separately so you have no issues. Use the on/off switch supplied and make your life easy. Don't ask me how to do it, because I always had someone who knows what they are doing.

The difference between Skilled and Unskilled.  I am my own worst enemy.   

[winshooter88]

I think if you read the information with those LED ight bars you will find out that are not legal for anything but off-road use, so it doesn't matter if you have them switch off when you hit the high beams. Ridgeratt is also correct that you can't legally have more than four forward facing lights in this state although it is rarely enforced.

[CAMPMEAT]

The on/off with high beams used to be you couldn't have your fog lights on at the same time as the high beams.
Offroad lights are a different beast.

[Magnum_Willys]

The ford switches likely  provide power.   You can use them but disconnect all wires to one.   Now tap into your high beam wire ( easiest is at front harness close to lamp - push voltmeter lead through insulation to test ).  Run power from high beam wire to ford switch then from ford switch to your provided relay.  relay has two wires to battery, two to lights, and one to switch. 

If not using ford switch do same with provided switch. 

[huntandjeep]

Here's the wire diagram for the Light. As you can see there are 3 wires going to the switch ( not 2 like Ridgeratt's diagram).
Magnum Willys the Ford switches do supply power they are also fused and have a 25 amp relay. However I only need 1 of the 3 wires from the original harness .
I now understand the hi/low thing. With my high beams on my factory fogs don't work until I switch to low beam.
 I realize these are not for on road use .

[Ridgeratt]

 

My job is done here!!  But when I look at your diagram there is only 2 wires from the switch? With 3 coming from the harness.

[winshooter88]

In the diagram huntandjeep put up if you skip the extra handwritten addition all the relay is for is to keep the high resistance from going through the light switch, instead the switch just activates the relay and the relay takes the higher resistance from the light bar. Basically this is just so you don't melt the light switch by running the high power usage through the switch itself. Just so you will trust me I did this stuff professionally for over 20 years.

[huntandjeep]

My job is done here!!  But when I look at your diagram there is only 2 wires from the switch? With 3 coming from the harness.

The female on the switch harness has the same 3 wires as the light harness

[Magnum_Willys]

The override switch shown could be your Ford switch - just cut wires to Ford switch and use switch stand alone if you want to control with hi/lo beam

[Calvin Rayborn]

black -ground, white- hot, blue -accessory.

[timberghost72]

Is it an illuminated switch? 2 wires for relay control and 1 for the illuminated switch.

[huntandjeep]

Is it an illuminated switch? 2 wires for relay control and 1 for the illuminated switch.

You know what there is a little light bulb on the switch. I bet that's the 3rd wire . Going to go out in a bit and cut up the harness and get this figured out

[Ridgeratt]

Looking at the drawing I would say its for the lite.    By habit I will wire a indicator lite in the circuit after the relay to show me it the power is feeding thru. Quick check then says if it's the lite or relay. It also eliminates the random battery draw if not used for a while.
Switch is on and so should the indicator and the running lights work. If the running lights are out and the indicator is on makes chasing easier.

[huntandjeep]

Appreciate all you help guys,  turns out I'm dumb. I was sure I saw three wires coming out from the light when I ran the harness , turns out there were only 2  a red and black. The Blue , White and Black i kept talking about started at the relay. It wasnt making any sense to me until Timberghost72 mentioned the illuminated aftermarket switch.   Thanks again guys.