Going to start hand loading, need help

[zwickeyman]

Would like to start hand loading for a 300 win mag. Haven't done it since I was a kid. Really could use some help getting started. Will eventually load for 270 win, 22-250, 9mm and 10mm

Don't know if a kit would be the best way to go or buy individually

I know a bunch of you guys have a ton of experience and would appreciate any advice you could give


Thanks in adavnce

[jasnt]

 I offer my canned response regarding what a new reloader needs to get started (with my recommendations):

First, read lots of books and manuals:

The ABCs of Reloading
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1440213968
The Beginner's Guide to Reloading Ammunition
http://www.amazon.com/Beginners-Guide-Reloading-Ammunition-Apartment/dp/148207379X
Lyman 50th Edition Reloading Manual
http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-50th-Edition-Reloading-Manual/dp/B01N76GD2F
Lee Precision - Modern Reloading
http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Modern-Reloading-Format/dp/B000N8OKAU

And watch videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/ammosmith/videos?flow=grid&view=0&sort=da

t=58s

And conduct other research:
http://rcbs.com/Resources/Introduction-to-Handloading/Step-by-Step-Reloading.aspx
http://ultimatereloader.com/

Equipment: Start out with a single-stage press. A single-stage press will force you to focus on each step. You should master each step before you attempt to combine them into a single-pull of the lever. Further, turret and progressive presses add complexity and points of failure that single-stage presses don’t have. You will always have a use for a single-stage press on your reloading bench, and you may find that you never need anything more than a single-stage, so get a good one

The Bare Minimum:

□ Books & manuals (You can never have too many books and manuals)
□ Reloading press* (Single-stage - RCBS Rock Chucker)
□ Scale* (Balance beam scales; pref. Ohaus, RCBS, Lee, etc.)
□ Priming tool* (Frankford Arsenal Perfect Seat Hand Priming Tool)
□ Case lube* (Imperial Sizing Die Wax)
□ Funnel*
□ Calipers ($10 eBay Stainless .001")
□ Shell holders (Lee Universal Shell Holder set)
□ Dies (for the specific cartridges you will be loading)

Near Essentials:

□ Bullet puller (Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ Impact Bullet Puller)
□ Primer crimp remover (Dillon Super Swage 600)
□ Case trimmer (Lee Deluxe Quick Trim)
□ Chamfer/deburring tool*
□ Case headspace gauge (L.E. Wilson; for each cartridge you will be reloading)
□ If loading .223/308 for AR platforms: Small base sizing die(s).
Note: If you need them, you need them; regardless, highly recommended, particularly if reloading for semi-autos.

Very Nice to Have:

□ Powder measure*
□ Loading block*
□ Plastic cases for your loaded rounds

Other stuff to make your job easier:

□ Hornady Lock-n-Load bushings (adaptable to many presses)
□ Digital powder measure (RCBS Chargemaster; 1500 or Lite)
□ Brass tumbler (Rotary/wet: Cheap - Harbor Freight Dual Drum; Best - Extreme Rebel 17. Once you go wet, you never go back)

* Included with most starter kits (RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Kit)

Note: The RCBS Rock Chucker is probably the best-selling single-stage press ever made. The other tools in the kit are also top quality and, no matter how far you “advance” in the reloading game, you will always be able to use every component in the kit and they will outlive you. It is a little more expensive than some of the other kits but remember that this is a lifetime investment; it is not money wasted but a solid foundation to build on. RCBS customer service is as good as any.

Things you do NOT need first rattle out of the box:

A Dillon Super 1050 or XL650 progressive press (yes, they really have been recommended as a first press) no matter how hard the blue fanboys try to convince you that your life will be miserable and wasted, and your crappy reloads will kill you if you settle for any other inferior "junk".

A Forster Co-Ax single-stage press. The Co-Ax is a great press but it has some frustrating limitations that the Rock Chucker doesn’t. Converted to use the Hornady LNL bushings, the Rock Chucker can do everything the Co-Ax can do for less money, and then some.

[zwickeyman]

Jasnt,

Thanks for taking the time to respond so thoroughly, great info

[Snakeriver]

What are the limitations of the co ax press?

[jasnt]

What are the limitations of the co ax press?

imo torque. You can work a D press way harder if need be.

[Jonathan_S]

If I was starting all over again, I would not buy anything until I had $1,000-2,000 saved up and could just "buy once, cry once"

I'm a fan of RCBS equipment    Like @jasnt mentioned, there are only a few "must haves" but the list of "really nice to haves" is extensive.

[C-Money]

I got a RCBS Rock Chucker kit for Christmas many moons ago...This with a Nosler reloading manual and a Lyman caliper.
I followed the recipes in the book, and have had very good success. The 300 win mag likes H1000 powder with a 180gr bullet. Look at RL19 & IMR4831 for the 270, and Varget for your 22-250. Enjoy!!

[Jonathan_S]

I love Varget but man, hard to not think H380 when starting off with a 22-250

[Evil_EdwardO]

If you are reloading rifle, Between bare minimum and near essential, I would put a powder trickler.

I also hate those impact bullet pullers, I went with a RCBS collet puller.

When I got into reloading most people I asked questions said most single stage presses work well but just make sure to get one that is cast iron and not aluminum.

With that said, I ended up getting the Lee turret press because I was going to reload pistol also. I've been very happy with it so far (3 years) and I bought it as a kit. The only thing I replaced in the kit was the beam scale with a Frankford Arsenal digital scale.

I also you only need lube if you are going to factory size your rifle brass. If you are going to use your ammo in multiple rifles, you are going to need to factory size your brass. I neck size my brass since I only shoot it out of one rifle (all the rifles I own are different calibers from each other) and lube is not needed.

[N7XW]

Tagging along on this one.  Good info for sure!
 

[hogslayer]

I live very close to you in Snoqualmie and have some extra reloading gear that i have collected along the way.  Including Hornady powder thrower with scale.  30 cal 200 ELDX, 200 berger hybrid, 215 berger hybrid, H1000, RL 26, FED 215 primers, Redding 300 win mag dies.  You should give me a call and swing by and i can show you my process and how i do things.  Just to warn you, You start off with basics then it gets worse from there.  I am deeeep into the dark rabbit hole of reloading.

Ryan: 360-801-2299

[yorketransport]

I went very cheap when I got into reloading because I was a broke kid. I bought a Lee Anniversary kit for $100 when I was 17 and I loaded on that press for 15 years and close to 15000 rounds before I finally replaced it. The only thing I added was an RCBS case trimmer and a pair of Cabelas dial calipers.

Like everyone else, I'll suggest reading all the load manuals you can find. I still think Hornady has one of the best manuals for new shooters even if you don't use Hornady bullets.

For components, just use your once fired brass and sort it by head stamp then just trim them all to the same length. Pick an inexpensive bullet to start with so you aren't launching $1.25 down range each shot while you're still trying to get a feel for the whole process. Don't over think the powder or primer selection either, just go with what's readily available in your area. There's nothing worse than being committed to a specific powder/primer and then not being able to find it anywhere.

Don't over think the equipment and don't feel like you need to spend a ton of money to get into this. I loaded everything on my Lee single stage press using Lee dies for years and I have piles of targets with 5 shot 100 yard groups in the .2-.3" range and a decent number of targets in the .1-.2" range. When I switched to a Hornady press my groups didn't get any better. I was able to cram a CheyTac case in there though! 

 Buying the highest quality equipment from the very start isn't a bad idea but it certainly isn't necessary. Very few shooters are capable of shooting so well that they need top end reloading equipment at any point.

[fly-by]

Zwickeyman-

Since you're shooting .300 WM it's likely a low volume proposition, so a high quality single stage is a good way to go.  Spend the difference on making the whole process easy so it's fun and not a chore.  A good wet number and integrated case prep machine are good to have. Second the recommendation of a collet puller. You will make some mistakes, and the inertial pullers ruin bullets.  I'm in Snoqualmie and have a loading area if you want to get some ideas.

[jasnt]

Zwickeyman-

 You will make some mistakes, and the inertial pullers ruin bullets. 

how do they ruin bullets? I assume your talking about the hammer style.

[zwickeyman]

Thanks for all the info.

Ryan and Fly-by. Thanks for the offers, Would love to see your set ups.  I'll get a hold of you guys after Turkey season

Thanks again, Dave

[Jonathan_S]

Zwickeyman-

 You will make some mistakes, and the inertial pullers ruin bullets. 

how do they ruin bullets? I assume your talking about the hammer style.

  before buying a press puller, I pulled a lot with the RCBS one and they shot just fine.

[jasnt]

I've heard the opposite, that the collet style can ruin bullets

[fly-by]

Zwickeyman-

 You will make some mistakes, and the inertial pullers ruin bullets. 

how do they ruin bullets? I assume your talking about the hammer style.

Using a hammer puller usually results in smashed tips for me.

[Magnum_Willys]

I throw a little padding in the cap so tips don’t slam into the cap.  They should come with a rubber cushion disc in there.

[Evil_EdwardO]

I've heard the opposite, that the collet style can ruin bullets

I've only had one bullet that was ruined by my collet puller. It was a 45 colt that was seated to deep.

[BigGoonTuna]

i like the hornady collet puller.  pretty easy to use and quick (if you load a bunch and decide to pull the bullets for some reason). much easier to salvage the powder too. i use a hammer type one for those "oops" moments, like turning in the depth adjustment when setting up my seating die.  would hate to pull a dozen bullets with one though.

i'm a fan of fine measuring tools, so i bought a nice mitutoyo digital caliper.  actually, i bought it at a pawn shop, so the cost was less than one of those chinese made cheapies that you'd get in the reloading too section(i think i paid $25 for mine, it's about a $150 model).  much nicer to  use.

i have had no issues with my lee dies, the price is certainly right.  i replace the lock ring on my full length sizers with a hornady lock ring, and set them up to bump the shoulder back a few thousandths from a fired case from my rifle(i don't have any 2 rifles chambered in the same cartridge at this time) and leave them.  i really love the collet neck sizers too.

[jasnt]

I throw a little padding in the cap so tips don’t slam into the cap.  They should come with a rubber cushion disc in there.

my rcbs one has about an inch of cushion

[BULLBLASTER]

I’ve had Berger tips fill up with rubber in the hammer pullers. I have one and also a collet puller. I’d much rather use the collet puller

[Fl0und3rz]

You think you need "help" now, wait until you start hand loading.

[wooltie]

You think you need "help" now, wait until you start hand loading.

 

I started reloading last year....wait until you get a load that won't group, then you have to figure out how to problem solve it.  (where I'm at now)

[zwickeyman]

Mental overload for sure

[SGTDuffman]

What you should get will be dictated to a large degree by how much your planning to shoot. If you’re just doing some hunting or precision shooting where you likely won’t send 100rds a day a single stage press will do just fine for a long time. If you sling lead like Rambo, you’re gonna want a progressive press with all the bells and whistles like a shell and bullet feeder. If you’re like me and fall somewhere in between, a progressive press without all the bells and whistles is just fine. I use a Hornady LNL  I told myself when I got it that if I wanted to, I could get the feeders later. I still don’t have them like 14 years later. I used to load more handgun ammo, but I can find it so cheap anymore that it isn’t really worth the time and hassle to load. Pet loads for the .308 are a different story. Buying match rounds at $1+/ea doesn’t work for me if I can make them for like $0.35/ea. If you can shoot 3 or more times as many rounds for the same price, it’s definitely worth doing.

[wooltie]

I bought everything individually and probably spent $8-1000, including a chrono.  I figured that I'd end up upgrading everything in a kit, so I just bought what I wanted.  Things that make the process easier, faster for me:

powder trickler,
loading trays
seating die w/micrometer,
hornady bullet comparator,
digital calipers
bullet puller w/collet (mounts in die)
primer pocket brush/cleaner

I hunt and load for the 30-06, use the RCBS chucker press.

[hogslayer]

I did buy a kit in the beginning. Only thing that’s left is the single stage press. I recently thought about taking it to another level with arbor press and have a seating die made from custom reamer used for the chamber I have. But I am not that good of a shot.

[W_Ellison2011]

Most of my stuff is used. Buddy kept upgrading and then giving me his old stuff. It works perfectly still. For 300 win mag I would go with H1000 or H4350. My fathers savage 111 really likes the h4350 and 180 gr barnes tsx. Those bullets are not cheap compared to hornady and others but his rifle really loved them. My new custom 300 win mag is eating a healthy dose of H1000 with 208 eld match bullets. Every rifle is going to have a certain powder and bullet its going to like more than others. Starting out I would pick up a couple different powders and a couple different .30 cal bullets. If you aren't looking for extreme accuracy then just buy the rcbs .300 win mag dies. Should be a full body sizing die and a seating die. If you want more accuracy and to really watch the seating depths, which you will get into later... trust me it can be annoying but make a big difference in groupings, then buy either the higher end hornady dies or the redding comp dies. A single stage rcbs press in a kit is a good start. If you wait for a sale you can find the kits for $200-$300. You will still need a few things like calipers, bullet comparators (which make things easier imo), shell holders, etc. It can be expensive and daunting to start into.. but once you make some bullets that go bang and hit paper it will become an addiction. My wife finally started complaining because every time a package comes to our door its either reloading or firearm related... brownells, midway, etc lol! I would highly suggest going to the guys places that offered and check out the process and learn from them first hand. That is a HUGE help! Also set yourself up the way you want and make yourself comfortable and have fun with it. It can be frustrating sometimes when you are trying to find a working load and nothing seems to go right. That's part of the game though!

[h20hunter]

I've been meaning to put this out there......as you begin take a little pride in simply making rounds that work. When you hit the magic formula for a gun great, but don't think rounds that didn't group are "bad". Anything you load that functions properly and safely is a good thing. When I dove a lot I said any dive you start and finished as planned is a good dive. Enjoy the process, learn the quirks as you go, take your time, when something is totally frustrating you it is likely a very very simple thing to correct. Ask every question you think is to dumb to ask. Be safe and enjoy the process.

[zwickeyman]

Thanks all for the input and info

[W_Ellison2011]

I've been meaning to put this out there......as you begin take a little pride in simply making rounds that work. When you hit the magic formula for a gun great, but don't think rounds that didn't group are "bad". Anything you load that functions properly and safely is a good thing. When I dove a lot I said any dive you start and finished as planned is a good dive. Enjoy the process, learn the quirks as you go, take your time, when something is totally frustrating you it is likely a very very simple thing to correct. Ask every question you think is to dumb to ask. Be safe and enjoy the process.

I look at loading kind of like I do hunting! You might see an animal but not be able to get a shot. Loading you might find a load that goes bang but doesn't group the way you want. That's how things go though. Really loading for me is relaxing. Its therapeutic. H20hunter hit it on right on the head btw. When starting out, anything that functions correctly is a good thing. Ohh and when you go to shoot your loads. Be sure to bring your cleaning rod along! Just in case you forget powder in a round and the cap pushes the bullet into the barrel. Doesn't happen all the time but even the most senior reloaders have it happen from time to time.

[JeffRaines]

Another couple tips...

I always keep my powders in a separate room from my loading stuff, and I unload the powder thrower directly after I'm done. That way, theres no question of what powder is in the thrower... I just look on the bench to be sure. With that said, I always double check my work. I'm constantly looking to make sure that I'm set at the correct weight that I intend for it to be set at.

If you can afford a nice automatic powder thrower, or even a nice electronic scale, I'm sure its great... if you can't, I wouldn't use anything other than a balance beam. Those cheap battery powered scales that come with a lot of the kits are trash.

As some other folks have mentioned, you don't need a progressive press to reload for something like 300 mag. Until you find a load that it likes, you're going to be making small runs.

[W_Ellison2011]

All I use is the balance beam scales and it doesn't take long. If he gets the electric powder throwers he will still want the balance beam scale and trickler. My buddy spent $200+ on an electric and its always low by about .3 grains. Another buddy spent like $300+ on an electric and even the more expensive one is off by .1-.2 grains. It doesn't sound like much but when you really get into loading and further down the road loading more for precision that can be the difference between a 5 round group being sub moa and it being moa. You will learn all about that as you progress and learn from the guys who want to teach you.

[Magnum_Willys]

Use a powder thrower to dump into beam scale tray and finger trickle last .1 - .2 grains.  Quick and exact.

[W_Ellison2011]

Use a powder thrower to dump into beam scale tray and finger trickle last .1 - .2 grains.  Quick and exact.

That's exactly what we are doing now! Its super fast compared to scooping!

[jasnt]

Use a powder thrower to dump into beam scale tray and finger trickle last .1 - .2 grains.  Quick and exact.

That's exactly what we are doing now! Its super fast compared to scooping!

same here. Nothing electronic in my setup but the light and my rcbs case prep station to save my hands and wrists

[h20hunter]

I have the rcbs power dispenser....love it.

[Fl0und3rz]

Use a powder thrower to dump into beam scale tray and finger trickle last .1 - .2 grains.  Quick and exact.

That's exactly what we are doing now! Its super fast compared to scooping!

The Lee Dippers are even faster and don't cut grains of the extruded powders.

For those not aware, they are scoops calibrated to and cross-referenced to powder type and charge weight.

I'd say that once I get going, I probably get 30-50% scoops right on the money or close to the mark.  With practice, you can tap the final few grains onto the pan up to the charge weight.

[kselkhunter]

I was in your spot a little over a year ago.  I had reloaded in my younger years but it had been a couple decades since.  I put an ad on this website looking to buy used reloading equipment to get started, and some very kind members of this site sold me the various items at a reasonable cost for used gear.   Much lower cost of entry going the used route.

I find reloading therapeutic.   I put one hand-primed brass in my reloading tray at a time, use the Lee powder measure dippers to load my balance beam scale for each charge and verify each weight, pour each charge into the single case in my tray, then move the case to the press and seat the bullet in the single stage press.  One at a time.  Eliminates risk of a double charge, and makes for accuracy in powder measurement.  And bizarrely therapeutic for me...I enjoy it.   

Granted my setup is very basic and I'm not pushing velocity to pressure limits or eeking out every last bit of accuracy in the guns I reload for at this time.   I'm only reloading a few calibers for now, about 100 pistol rounds per month and maybe 40 rifle rounds per month.   This setup works fine for that. 

[zwickeyman]

kselkhunter

That is very much how I see myself reloading. I might be a little anal on the accuracy though