Tikka build thread

[Magnum_Willys]

I slacked on my shooting all winter in 2019 but finally got back out and after it this spring, but something wasn’t right.. none of my dope was correct. I ran it over the chrono and there it was, I had lost 200fps. Same lot of powder, primers, brass, etc. I was beside myself. I had just bought a heap of tags and had deposits down on a bush flight etc, and my rifle is failing.. I started running a new ladder test, trying to recover my velocity and hope it still groups. I got lucky there, it still shoots about as good as me. I settled on a band aid to get me through the season, right or wrong, someone more knowledgeable than me might comment. 79.7gr vs my previous 75.0 and I had my working load for the season.

Thats a big jump even for shot out barrel - powder get humid ?

When my last barrel got to 900 rounds it all of a sudden started dropping velocity fast and took 4 grains to get it back up - both because of having to extend seating to reach new lands and due to bore erosion I assume.    Didn't like having to use an extra 4 or 5 grains of powder and assumed it was time to get a new barrel so did. 

[fillthefreezer]

So now in October, I figured I’d need to shoot a couple to re zero and check my dope at a couple longer ranges, just to have that killer instinct confidence rolling into mule deer season. Boy was I wrong. My zero was way off. Like 8” low. Come up .5 mil, now I’m almost 4” high. Wait a second, that should have only been 1.8in. With my values meaning almost nothing it took a long time to make the adjustments. I got it close to zeroed at 200 and ran out of light. I called NF later that week scathing. I had a patient CS rep, who took my abuse, I mean let’s face it, I spent a lot of money on a scope to not have these kind of issues. To paraphrase the reps response, “I don’t know where the problem is, but it’s not the scope. Take everything apart, clean, and retorque to spec. If you still have issues, were happy to take a look at it, but that doesn’t help you at all for your hunts”
So, that’s what I did. Stripped everything.
 


I wish I had found some culprit, but that wasn’t the case. But afterward everything tracked just like new. I shot a couple more deer, got everything butchered, gear cleaned, and some much needed time in with the family. Also ordered my new goodies.

Forgot to mention above, I donated my magazine to kodiak in August. I was never super happy with it, it fed well and I had no real complaints, but it had sharp corners that would sometimes poke, and it was loud if it contacted a branch. I ordered a p mag style one to replace it.

[fillthefreezer]

I ordered a new barrel, brake, and action wrench. When everything arrived, I enlisted the help of a friend that had a barrel vise. Removing the factory barrel proved to be a real chore, but it’s done and I’m excited to get back out and break in this barrel, run some ladders, and finalize a new load.








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Magnum_Willys]

 Curious- On a typical rifle you send action and barrel to gunsmith and they ream chamber and cut barrel to give proper headspace ( ie using go/no go gauge). 

So on Tikka's you just bolt up a barrel and don't have to worry about headspace because all Tikka actions are the same ??  They don't look like a savage that are adjustable.

[fillthefreezer]

Correct, as I hear it there’s some actions that are concentric enough out of the box to not need a barrel nut or machining. Some others are defiance, Stiller, accuracy international, we’ll see, could be quite a game changer.

[Magnum_Willys]

Looked at the list of proof prefit barrels - a growing list of actions.  Big advantage sticking with one of those for sure - save $350 and couple weeks wait .

[Reidus]

Them factory barrels are a real bugger to get off. The blues ones seem worse than the stainless. They come off real easy when you cut a relief groove about 0.050 in front of the action.

[fillthefreezer]

I think reidus gets it



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk