a/c clutch

[Stein]

So, the 2000 Silverado clutch decided to retire today - perfect timing of course.  From what I read, it is recommended to replace the compressor and clutch because it could have been the compressor that blew the clutch if it went out.  I checked all the fuses and couldn't hear the clutch engage.  Low side was 100 psi engine running or not, so it sounds like the compressor isn't running.

The replacement clutch is $115 from Rock Auto and the whole compressor is $155.  So, I'm probably looking at a $115 DIY gamble vs what I would guess is $400 to replace it all at a shop.

Anyone know if it would be worth replacing just the clutch, or should I just get the compressor replaced?  If the latter, any recommendations for the Marysville/Arlington area?

[jackelope]

@Woodchuck
@Buckmark
@dewandgin

I believe Buckmark's shop is in Marysville (ish). Not sure of that.

Labor time guide shows 1.6 hours to do the compressor plus evacuate and recharge time which is usually 1.0-1.5 hours. We charge 1.4 hours.
Here, that would be $480.00 in labor alone.
 

[KFhunter]

hate to bring bad news, but just replacing a compressor/clutch isn't recommended, the junk in the lines will (can) just take out your new compressor. 

[Stein]

Fake news, I'm holding out for a better answer.   

[dewandgin]

We would be at $450 for labor with book time of 3.0 total for replace and evacuate and recharge with no parts or R134A.
There is a reason the clutch failed either to much air gap/ which built up to much heat or the compressor froze up and the clutch could not hold anymore and literally fried or ripped it off. If the compressor came apart you need to flush the system and replace the desiccant and the orifice/filter tube. If the compressor did not come apart you could get away with just a evacuate and recharge. We will not put on just a clutch we do complete compressors and if you bring in your own part we will install it but warranty the install only not the part.

[jackelope]

hate to bring bad news, but just replacing a compressor/clutch isn't recommended, the junk in the lines will (can) just take out your new compressor.

If a clutch fails, there’s no junk in the lines. If the compressor grenades, you’re correct.

[jackelope]

We would be at $450 for labor with book time of 3.0 total for replace and evacuate and recharge with no parts or R134A.
There is a reason the clutch failed either to much air gap/ which built up to much heat or the compressor froze up and the clutch could not hold anymore and literally fried or ripped it off. If the compressor came apart you need to flush the system and replace the desiccant and the orifice/filter tube. If the compressor did not come apart you could get away with just a evacuate and recharge. We will not put on just a clutch we do complete compressors and if you bring in your own part we will install it but warranty the install only not the part.

It’s weird. At a GM dealer we never replaced just the clutch. Chrysler, replaced just clutches all the time. We do on Fords too.

No reoccurring issues. I sold a clutch replacement today.

[dewandgin]

We would be at $450 for labor with book time of 3.0 total for replace and evacuate and recharge with no parts or R134A.
There is a reason the clutch failed either to much air gap/ which built up to much heat or the compressor froze up and the clutch could not hold anymore and literally fried or ripped it off. If the compressor came apart you need to flush the system and replace the desiccant and the orifice/filter tube. If the compressor did not come apart you could get away with just a evacuate and recharge. We will not put on just a clutch we do complete compressors and if you bring in your own part we will install it but warranty the install only not the part.

It’s weird. At a GM dealer we never replaced just the clutch. Chrysler, replaced just clutches all the time. We do on Fords too.

No reoccurring issues. I sold a clutch replacement today.

When we do them at the Ford or the Chrysler store we do clutches all the time and set the air gap and usually all good. We have never had good luck doing GM a/c clutches.

[baker5150]

You sure it the clutch?  On my 06 dodge I had a pressure switch fail which seam like a clutch or compressor issue, but isn’t.  I was able to bypass it to test it.
Not sure if GM is the same, but I have to imagine it has a low/high pressure switch to protect the compressor

[jackelope]

You can jumper the cycling switch to verify that’s bad if you want. All you need is a paper clip.

Usually a failed clutch will blow cold for a short time then stop working.

[Stein]

It’s at least the clutch, or rather what’s left of it that grinds.  Compressor seems to be locked, so I did the responsible thing and pulled the belt and took the kids crabbing.

Fortunately I replaced the window motors last year.


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[coachcw]

hang a new compressor on it with a accumulator and orfas filter should run about three hours total plus parts , if its in the budget id recommend the delco new option.

[Stein]

Thanks, I ended up putting in all Delco stuff, compressor, accumulator, orifice filter and condenser.  Charged it up and it runs like new.  The new compressor is very quiet and the clutch barely makes any click when it engages.  The only semi-difficult part was getting the old compressor out and the new one in, with 4x4 it is not an easy fit.

[steeleywhopper]

I've got a 2000 GMC sierra 1500 4x4 and it sounds like either the clutch and or the compressor is going out. Looks like I'll be doing the same.