Broadhead tuning

[smithkl42]

I've got a question about broadhead tuning.

I got my bow tuned up sometime in April - new strings and what-not - and at the time, my broadheads were shooting with my field points. But that string has launched over a thousand arrows since then, and not surprisingly, when I tried out my broadheads this week, they were hitting about 4" low at 20 yards. Not great, but fixable, I thought.

I've made a number of adjustments - basically, a combination of lowering my d-loop, and raising my rest - and they seem to be grouping together pretty well.

The weirdness is that prior to my adjustments, my rest was pretty much at a straight 90 degree angle out from my string, how you typically want it. However, after all the adjustment required to get my broadheads hitting with my field points, the arrow is *not* sticking out at a straight 90 degrees. I don't know exactly what the angle is, but the tip is probably a good half-inch higher than the nock: it's enough that you can't help but notice it (see attached image).

Now, on the one hand, if my broadheads are grouping with my field points ... I suppose there's nothing to worry about? But still, this seems weird.

Some details:

* My bow is a 50 lb Hoyt PowerMax (2017).
* I'm shooting slightly stiff arrows (340's), weighing in right at 410 grains.
* My timing *seems * to be correct, at least, my stops are both hitting at the same time.

Anything else I could check? Worth worrying about? (I can always take it into the shop, but I'd like to be able to do as much of my own tuning as possible.)

[Crunchy]

I probably would have shot through paper before making a bunch of adjustments.  That said, I dont worry too much where field points are hitting compared to broadheads.  Once I start shooting broadheads I dont stop until the season is over.  So I make sight adjustments and as long as my broadheads are shooting where I am aiming I am happy.

[firehawk87]

Let’s start off with this... what kind of Broadhead are you shooting and what is your total point weight including insert and total arrow length?

[smithkl42]

I probably would have shot through paper before making a bunch of adjustments.  That said, I dont worry too much where field points are hitting compared to broadheads.  Once I start shooting broadheads I dont stop until the season is over.  So I make sight adjustments and as long as my broadheads are shooting where I am aiming I am happy.

That makes sense, but it's awfully hard on targets :-). I'm still new enough to this that I'm feeling that need to fling several dozen arrows downrange every day, and I haven't yet found a target that can take that without it getting real expensive. (Seems like I've tried most of 'em.) When I "switch" over to broadheads, what I mean in my case is shooting a single broadhead, followed by three or so field points, and then rinse and repeat a dozen times. That way I can still get my practice in, without utterly destroying my targets.

[smithkl42]

Let’s start off with this... what kind of Broadhead are you shooting and what is your total point weight including insert and total arrow length?

I'm shooting standard 100 grain Slick Tricks. My total arrow length, tip to nock, is 28", and they weigh in at 407 (+/- 5) grains.

[Crunchy]

You shoot more than most I guess.  About three weeks prior to season I switch to broadheads and only shoot them til season is over.  So I shoot 2-3 times a week but only 8-10 arrows each session just to ensure I am dialed in.  Once you are dialed in there isnt much you are going to gain by shooting more.  2-3 arrows at 30, 40, 50, and 60. 

[smithkl42]

You shoot more than most I guess.  About three weeks prior to season I switch to broadheads and only shoot them til season is over.  So I shoot 2-3 times a week but only 8-10 arrows each session just to ensure I am dialed in.  Once you are dialed in there isnt much you are going to gain by shooting more.  2-3 arrows at 30, 40, 50, and 60.

Yeah, if I were any good, I wouldn't need to shoot so much :-).

[luckyman]

Yeah. that don't sound right with the rest being so far out off square. The biscuit is famous for giving false results when tuning. If its nock low it shows up as nock high. It  looks way off.   
 You may want to try a 40 yard shot to see if its  any where close.

[lord grizzly]

I probably would have shot through paper before making a bunch of adjustments.  That said, I dont worry too much where field points are hitting compared to broadheads.  Once I start shooting broadheads I dont stop until the season is over.  So I make sight adjustments and as long as my broadheads are shooting where I am aiming I am happy.

Yup. Can’t imagine why you would want to take a tuned bow and move everything on it but the sight. Hunting season broad heads are all that matter. Move the sight down till there hitting and go hunt. I image that thing is tearing big holes in paper right now...

[blackveltbowhunter]

Are your arrows driving into your target nice and straight? If so I wouldn't sorry about it until after the season.

    From that picture your setup likely needs some work. I would start by adding a significant amount of weight to the front of your arrow or going to a lighter spine. Then running your arrow thru your Berger and set your center shot to spec. Are you shooting more than one BH and shaft combo? With the Beman shafts I have used, nock tuning, and BH matching was very important.  If you have access to a spine tester it might help as well, although it sounds like shooting lots of arrows is no problem for you. 

[buckfvr]

Judging by the picture, your rest is too high and maybe even the nock point........

[Crunchy]

Its pretty easy to make a paper tune set up in your garage.  That is where I would start.  Well after I centered the arrow on the berger hole, and put a T square to set the knock point if that moved.  Once I got that squared up and shooting a decent hole you have a starting point.  I would only ever move the rest from that point on, never both rest and nock point.

[dilleytech]

Is a bareshaft hitting with your fletched arrow at 20? If the bow is bareshaft tuned and broadheads are hitting with your field points then I wouldn’t worry about it. Your timing probably isn’t correct and it’s really hard to tell without a draw board.

[elkonastick]

I had this problem when I switched to a biscuit. I started out too high with my rest and broad heads shot low versus field points. I kept raising my rest, dropping my knock untill my groups came together but it was just so far out of adjustment that the arrows were correcting somewhat the same. I restarted and turned from a visible tip low rest and tuned right back on no problem.

[92xj]

First thing I'd do is eliminate the nock pinch you are getting with your dloop

[Crunchy]

First thing I'd do is eliminate the nock pinch you are getting with your dloop

Good eye, I didnt notice that.  Definitely need to tie in some knots once the nock point is established.

[smithkl42]

First thing I'd do is eliminate the nock pinch you are getting with your dloop

Good eye, I didnt notice that.  Definitely need to tie in some knots once the nock point is established.

First this (relative) newbie has heard of nock pinch. What are you seeing that indicates a problem? And (more precisely) what's the fix?

[smithkl42]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I took my bow to the shop yesterday, and they said that the timing was off. Not sure exactly how - they're better at fixing things than explaining what they're fixing - but after some tweaking, everything is square again, and my broadheads are hitting with my field points.

[Crunchy]

First thing I'd do is eliminate the nock pinch you are getting with your dloop

Good eye, I didnt notice that.  Definitely need to tie in some knots once the nock point is established.

First this (relative) newbie has heard of nock pinch. What are you seeing that indicates a problem? And (more precisely) what's the fix?

You should have some tied in nock points made with serving thread between your nock and the Dloop.  This keeps the Dloop from pinching down on your nocks or keeps them spread apart where they should be.  just youtube tied in nock points.  Should find an example of it.

[dilleytech]

First thing I'd do is eliminate the nock pinch you are getting with your dloop

Good eye, I didnt notice that.  Definitely need to tie in some knots once the nock point is established.

First this (relative) newbie has heard of nock pinch. What are you seeing that indicates a problem? And (more precisely) what's the fix?

Knock sets are good to prevent the d loop from sliding but most importantly make sure you have about 1/16” of play with an arrow knocked. At full draw your knock should be loose enough to wiggle on the string and not pinched by the loop or it will cause tuning issues.

[Fullabull]

You should not be shooting 340s out of a 50lb bow