chevy won't start

[follow maggie]

Any gm people on here familiar with that stupid passlock theft system? I put a new battery in my 2004 2500hd today and now it doesn't start. I called the dealer and did the procedure they told me- try to start it, leave the key on 10 minutes, turn it off 10 seconds, try to start it ... 3-5 times. I did this whole sequence twice this afternoon and evening, disconnecting the battery for an hour in between, and it doesn't work. Anybody have any ideas? I'd sure appreciate some input. I've been out of work a long time because of health so I can't afford to take it to the shop, especially since it'd have to be on a tow truck.

[jackelope]

Just replacing the battery shouldn’t mess with the security.

What happens when you turn the key?

[jackelope]

@Woodchuck 

[Caseyd]

Is the truck starting then immediately shuts off?

[Buzz2401]

  I've got a 04 2500HD and have replaced battery a couple times with no issues at all. Let us know what you find out.

[Crunchy]

The battery in the remote good?  maybe use the key to lock and unlock the driver's door?  Youtube should have something.

[follow maggie]

It'll start & run for about 2 seconds and shut off. The lights work but nothing else. No gauges, radio, can't even put the windows up. The information center in the display says unknown driver- it normally says driver 1. The padlock theft light comes on when it cranks & starts up but goes out right away. It's a brand new battery that reads 12.5v. I've had trouble with this before but not to this extent.

[Ridgeratt]

How to Reset the Passlock System on GM Cars
by Herman Cruz


A wide variety of GM cars come with a passlock theft system feature that is meant to keep GM cars from being stolen. However, it isn't uncommon for GM car owners to experience glitches with their passlock system when trying to start their vehicle. When this occurs, you will see the security (Theft Sys) light being displayed randomly, plus you won't be able to start your vehicle. To cope with this pesky glitch you can reset the passlock system when starting your car.


Step 1
Insert your key in the starter, start you car as you usually would and let it stall. Keep the key in the "On" position. In other words, don't turn the key back to the "Off" position. You will know the key is in the "On" position because you can use the A/C, radio and see all the lights on the dashboard when it is in the "On" position.
Step 2
Wait until the "Theft Sys" light on your dashboard stays on without blinking. This will take approximately 10 to 15 minutes.

Start the car immediately once the "Theft Sys" light stays on steadily. Remember to not turn the key off. Your car will now reset the passlock system and start as usual.
Tips
If your passlock system keeps giving your problems, it may be broken and you will need to take it to the dealership.

[Happy Gilmore]

Had it happen on an old fleet Chevy. If I recall it was a corroded ground cable and bad battery.

[Skyvalhunter]

Buy a Ford

[C-Money]

Hope you get it figured out, sounds very frustrating!

[Woodchuck]

Gasser or diesel?

[Henrydog]

I have a Buick that did this crap to me.  My Kid is in a Auto Tech school and fixed it in about 10 minutes.

Using the key lock the door.  Then with the key unlock it.  Open the door and shut the door.  Lock the down from the inside with the power locks.  Wait about 30 seconds.  Then unlock the door again.  Start the car.  After you do that, turn the radio on or of, roll the window down an up (normal stuff)

You should be good after that.  There was a pattern too it.  It took him 3 or 4 attempts.  He googled the actual order.  He said you have to make it think it is not being stolen, and one of my issues was my trunk was open.  ( I was checking the fuel pump)  The car shut down because it thought it was being stolen

[follow maggie]

Gasser or diesel?

8.1 gas

[follow maggie]

Buy a Ford

My last pick up was an f-150 & that thing lived at the shop getting expensive repairs. Looking like the next one will be a dodge

[Buzz2401]

I've had zero issues accept a wheel bearing that just went out on my 04 2500HD with 8.1L  I plan on keeping a long time, been a really good truck. I here more issues with newer trucks then the older ones.  I think they all make about the same quality truck just way more stuff to go wrong the newer they get.

[Woodchuck]

Gasser or diesel?

8.1 gas

I would start with checking fuel pressure. Key on engine off should be between 56 and 62 psi. Just having fuel to the rail is not enough info. At 54 psi, that truck will not stay running. The other "backyard" trick to try is to go whack the fuel tank with a rubber mallet and then try it. 

[Woodchuck]

Just replacing the battery shouldn’t mess with the security.

What happens when you turn the key?

It will lose memory settings, should not set the security off.

[follow maggie]

This has been a really reliable truck, except for this issue. Anytime the battery is disconnected or run really low, like at elk camp in Idaho last week, this problem comes up. I was lucky to get it started in Idaho, because I was 17 miles from cel service. Got it started there with a jump from an old Cummins, thus the new battery.

Is there a way to check fuel pressure without special tools? I don't have a tool for that, and there's no power to anything except the lights.

I'm going to walk to the Fred Meyer to get batteries for the fobs. A mile uphill there, a mile downhilll home, should be good for the exercise for today. Except for a lot of cussin

I appreciate your guys' input.

[jackelope]

You could try locking the doors with the remote.  Wait 15 minutes or so then unlock it with the remote.  Essentially you’re arming and disarming the security. Try starting it again. 
Or maybe try another key?

[follow maggie]

You could try locking the doors with the remote.  Wait 15 minutes or so then unlock it with the remote.  Essentially you’re arming and disarming the security. Try starting it again. 
Or maybe try another key?

Tried that last night & nothing. It's times like this I wish I had two rigs

[follow maggie]

It's weird. I put the new battery in & it started & ran fine. I forgot to put the battery warmer I bought in, so I unhooked the negative to get it wrapped around, and that's when my trouble started. Very frustrating.

[Woodchuck]

This has been a really reliable truck, except for this issue. Anytime the battery is disconnected or run really low, like at elk camp in Idaho last week, this problem comes up. I was lucky to get it started in Idaho, because I was 17 miles from cel service. Got it started there with a jump from an old Cummins, thus the new battery.

Is there a way to check fuel pressure without special tools? I don't have a tool for that, and there's no power to anything except the lights.

I'm going to walk to the Fred Meyer to get batteries for the fobs. A mile uphill there, a mile downhilll home, should be good for the exercise for today. Except for a lot of cussin

I appreciate your guys' input.

You do need a fuel pressure gauge to check fuel pressure. Does the local parts store rent one?

[Buckhunter24]

Sounds like a similar issue as this video covers maybe?

[Woodchuck]

Just for giggles, swap the fuel pump and a/c relays and try it.

[jackelope]

I have a crazy idea. Grab each battery cable and make sure you can’t move them at all. If they move at all the bolt bottomed out before it tightened on the terminal. Pull the bolts out and grind a little bit off of the end of them. That way they will tighten up on the terminal end  before they bottom out in the battery. It’s possible your new battery bolt holes are not deep enough. Sounds crazy but it is a thing.

[2MANY]

Speed limit 55.

Chevy's just do your best.

[follow maggie]

Speed limit 55.

Chevy's just do your best.

 

[follow maggie]

Tried all that and no dice. I have a positive development though. For ricks I put the old battery in and it ran for little while- much longer than before. And I have power back to the vehicle, so the dome light, door chimes, radio, windows, locks all work. I have a check engine light, but that may be because the air intake tube is off because I'm replacing the power steering pump, and a message the alternator isn't charging. I have a battery separator for dual batteries that is removed so I can get the steering pump out, so that may be the reason. I'm going to walk up to the Napa for my steering pump, put it all back together & see what happens. Hopefully it gets me back on the road.

Thanks everyone for the help & ideas. This forum is great.

[Birdguy]

Did you ever get back from Napa?? Did you get the truck fired up and working? I really hope you are out driving around and thus no update. Let us know if having it all back together worked.

[RockChuck]

When I worked on cars I remember having some come in and replacing the battery then having alarm go off or security system lights flashing/no starts and customer didn’t have a remote or know there  was an alarm... we would disconnect battery then turn the key on (one time remember holding key in start position) then have someone hook up the cables.. seemed to do the trick many times. Probably not with yours as it sounds like a newer system. And maybe not even a safe option for electronics?? Possibly worth a try though

[LDennis24]

Take the new battery out, push the Chevy into a ditch somewhere and go buy a Ford.

[follow maggie]

I’ve been working on the power steering pump. I got that done today, getting the pulley on was pretty tough for me. In the morning I’ll put the air intake tube back on and fill the new pump with fluid. Hopefully the truck will start and run. And hopefully my brakes and steering will be back. Monday I’m taking it to the Chevy shop for a new battery & have the anti theft checked out. Hopefully I’ll be driving it there and not having it towed.

[3cityhuntr]

You mentioned having the air intake tube off?  There’s your problem.  Bet it fires right up and stays running when you put it back together.

[follow maggie]

It was the anti theft not liking the battery. For whatever reason it didn't like the battery I bought for it. I put the old battery back in and left it on the charger. It started and I was able to get it to the chevy shop in Port Orchard yesterday for a new battery. It was only giving power to the engine & exterior lights, nothing to the interior. The mechanic put in a new AC Delco battery and now it starts and runs great.

[jackelope]

Huh?
Never heard of that problem before.

[full choke]

Was the battery you bought fully to spec for your truck?
I replaced a battery in a jetta years ago, went cheap and picked up whatever Napa had that was like $60, because I didn't want to spend $120 for the battery recommended by manufacturer. Same deal- the cheap battery didn't work too well. Car started, but acted weird. A day or two later, it wouldn't start at all. Bucked up the money and got the correct battery and everything was great. I learned going cheap on batteries is not the way to go.

Anyhow- glad you got your rig running. 

[follow maggie]

It wasn't a cheap battery- it was $150 from Pacific Power Batteries in Marysville. As far as I know it's a good battery. It has more reserve capacity and more cca than the delco the mechanic put in. Both the mechanic and service advisor said it should work fine, but the truck doesn't like it for whatever reason. I'm happy it's going again since I'm heading to Montana Wyoming & North Dakota in a couple weeks. Don't need to be stuck out there with a truck that won't start.

[jackelope]

It wasn't a cheap battery- it was $150 from Pacific Power Batteries in Marysville. As far as I know it's a good battery. It has more reserve capacity and more cca than the delco the mechanic put in. Both the mechanic and service advisor said it should work fine, but the truck doesn't like it for whatever reason. I'm happy it's going again since I'm heading to Montana Wyoming & North Dakota in a couple weeks. Don't need to be stuck out there with a truck that won't start.

I’ll bet a dollar it’s because of what  I mentioned earlier in this thread.

[follow maggie]

It wasn't a cheap battery- it was $150 from Pacific Power Batteries in Marysville. As far as I know it's a good battery. It has more reserve capacity and more cca than the delco the mechanic put in. Both the mechanic and service advisor said it should work fine, but the truck doesn't like it for whatever reason. I'm happy it's going again since I'm heading to Montana Wyoming & North Dakota in a couple weeks. Don't need to be stuck out there with a truck that won't start.

I’ll bet a dollar it’s because of what  I mentioned earlier in this thread.

The bolts bottoming out in the terminal? Certainly not impossible.

[jackelope]

It wasn't a cheap battery- it was $150 from Pacific Power Batteries in Marysville. As far as I know it's a good battery. It has more reserve capacity and more cca than the delco the mechanic put in. Both the mechanic and service advisor said it should work fine, but the truck doesn't like it for whatever reason. I'm happy it's going again since I'm heading to Montana Wyoming & North Dakota in a couple weeks. Don't need to be stuck out there with a truck that won't start.

I’ll bet a dollar it’s because of what  I mentioned earlier in this thread.

The bolts bottoming out in the terminal? Certainly not impossible.

Ya that. Unless there was an issue with your battery isolator. You said something about aftermarket dual battery setup.

[follow maggie]

Yeah, it's a pretty weird problem to just go away with a new battery and resetting the anti theft, so that might have been it. The cables seemed tight, but I guess there could have been a gap behind the plastic cable end out of sight. The battery isolator's been there for 4 years and is still there with the truck working fine

[jackelope]

Yeah, it's a pretty weird problem to just go away with a new battery and resetting the anti theft, so that might have been it. The cables seemed tight, but I guess there could have been a gap behind the plastic cable end out of sight. The battery isolator's been there for 4 years and is still there with the truck working fine

I worked for a couple GM service departments a long time ago. Couldn’t tell you how many no-starts we fixed by installing Delco batteries. Also couldn’t tell you how many times customers didn’t believe me when I told them their brand new batteries were the problem and then explained why.  Eventually figured out you could grind a tiny little bit off the battery bolts and fix it without needing another different battery.

[follow maggie]

I’m happy with deacon batteries. The one I just replaced was in the truck when I bought it 5 years ago.  They’re good batteries.

[Whitpirate]

Can I ask your average MPG with your 8.1?  I'm looking at one myself and trying to figure out the "real" costs to run it vs. a 6.0 or my current 7.4.  I like the 8.1 torque and don't have the budget for a diesel.  Mostly farm trailer tows and a bit of running kids around town.

[Igor]

Can I ask your average MPG with your 8.1?  I'm looking at one myself and trying to figure out the "real" costs to run it vs. a 6.0 or my current 7.4.  I like the 8.1 torque and don't have the budget for a diesel.  Mostly farm trailer tows and a bit of running kids around town.

If you don't mind I'll chime in on gas mileage for the 6.0.  I have a 2014 GMC Sierra 2500 HD with the 6.0.  It has 37,000 miles on it.  Around town it never gets as much as 11.0 MPG.......more like 10.6 - 10.8.  On the hiway it does much better.  I make frequent runs to SeaTac from Lake Stevens, and it gets 16.3 - 16.5 at 65-70 MPH.  I just drove over the North Cascades yesterday and it got 14.2, carrying a decent-sized load of hunting stuff.......ice chests, etc. 
Pulling my 25' (5800 lbs empty) camping trailer it ain't good.  The best it gets is 8.6, and sometimes not that good.
Hope this info helps.

[follow maggie]

Can I ask your average MPG with your 8.1?  I'm looking at one myself and trying to figure out the "real" costs to run it vs. a 6.0 or my current 7.4.  I like the 8.1 torque and don't have the budget for a diesel.  Mostly farm trailer tows and a bit of running kids around town.

Every day driving around Kitsap county it does 12. On the highway down to California and back it does about 14.5 cruising about 70-75 the whole way. When I go to montana & North Dakota it’s about 13.5-14 at 75. Towing is 9. A couple weeks ago I was elk hunting near Sun Valley Idaho. I had over 1/2 cord of firewood in the back and towed my cargo trailer with the camp set up inside. I drove 70 the whole way and it did exactly 9 mpg for the round trip. It uses a quart of oil every 7,000 miles, a bit more if its working harder. It makes good torque so it’s a nice rig for hauling and towing.

[Whitpirate]

Thanks all.  Bit better than I thought on a trip. 

[Norman89]

I see the passlock problems a lot. In our trucks (2000-2006) the gm passlock 2 modules is very problematic. If this happens to anyone else because it will the fast reset procedure is to pull the steering column covers off just above the lock cylinder there is the passlock wire connector small black 3 wire connector. Unplug, take ground cable off the battery, reinstall both in reverse order and start. There is a widely used bypass that you can solder in a resister to the system there are many wrightups about this online. My personal truck (2000 5.3 Silverado) does this at least one a week I leave the colomn covers off just to make it quicker. You can often get away with just pushing the black connector towards the passenger side of the truck and holding it with a finger while you start the truck. Gm has a very faulty connection there some people find jamming a tooth pick or the like into the driver side of the connector makes the connection better and lessens the repeatability of the passlock system malfunction. When I bought my truck used the previous owner had lopped off the connector and crimped the wires into the port on the passlock sensor which made the problem worse wrecking yard connector solder into place and I can always get my truck to start every time the passlock systems goes off and sets the security light. Several other gm vehicles use the system as well