Popping sound from front wheel

[follow maggie]

I come seeking advice. I have a 2004 chevy 2500hd 4x4. When I’m turning left backing up, I get some loud metallic popping sounds, I think from the front passenger wheel area. It only happens when backing up, and is mainly when turning the steering wheel left. I’ve been working on this a couple days and have run out of the easy stuff. I greased the pins the brake calipers slide on, I replaced the idler arm & it’s bracket- it needed done anyway, so at least it wasn’t a waste.  I also cut off the steering damper, which got rid of the grinding noise I had.

I have he front on Jack stands. I held the front & rear of the tire & didn’t get any movement when I tried to wiggle it, same when I held the top & bottom.  I put a pry bar under the tire to raise it & don’t notice any play that way either.

I did notice a couple times when jacking it up under that control arm, it made what I think is the same metal popping sound when jacking it up.  It’s loud.

Money is tight right now & I can’t afford a mechanic or buy a bunch of expensive parts just to guess. I appreciate any advice or tips from you all.

Thanks.

[Woodchuck]

Idler arm and bracket. 

[follow maggie]

Those are new, I just replaced them yesterday. I filled both with grease & made all the bolts tight. Is there something else to installing those?

[jrebel]

Are they factory sized wheels and tires? 

Fist thought.....CV joint

Second thought....When the wheel is turned all the way right or left and you are driving slow, does it feel like the vehicle is in four wheel drive and mildly lurches as it turns?  If so then likely a ball joint.  I would think if this were the case and it was bad enough to sound like you describe....the wheel would have play when jacked up. 

[Duckslayer89]

I come seeking advice. I have a 2004 chevy 2500hd 4x4. When I’m turning left backing up, I get some loud metallic popping sounds, I think from the front passenger wheel area. It only happens when backing up, and is mainly when turning the steering wheel left. I’ve been working on this a couple days and have run out of the easy stuff. I greased the pins the brake calipers slide on, I replaced the idler arm & it’s bracket- it needed done anyway, so at least it wasn’t a waste.  I also cut off the steering damper, which got rid of the grinding noise I had.

I have he front on Jack stands. I held the front & rear of the tire & didn’t get any movement when I tried to wiggle it, same when I held the top & bottom.  I put a pry bar under the tire to raise it & don’t notice any play that way either.

I did notice a couple times when jacking it up under that control arm, it made what I think is the same metal popping sound when jacking it up.  It’s loud.

Money is tight right now & I can’t afford a mechanic or buy a bunch of expensive parts just to guess. I appreciate any advice or tips from you all.

Thanks.

I would just turn up the radio and call it good.... But in all seriousness I would keep driving it if money is tight. Probably just a CV joint. Mine popped and clanked for years in my Tacoma and I never took it easy on them. Just kept going. Then replaced when I had the money and some other work done. Probably didn’t even need to be done lol

Also mine only made noise in reverse.

[Woodchuck]

Those are new, I just replaced them yesterday. I filled both with grease & made all the bolts tight. Is there something else to installing those?

Other than alignment, no. I would be after inner and outer tie rod ends, maybe even a gearbox. Do you have someone that can rock the wheels back and forth while you look at parts?

[follow maggie]

It doesn’t lurch, but I can feel vibration in the steering wheel when it happens.  It feels kind of like a grinding sensation. Is here a way to check a cv joint?  I appreciate all the input.

[follow maggie]

Those are new, I just replaced them yesterday. I filled both with grease & made all the bolts tight. Is there something else to installing those?

Other than alignment, no. I would be after inner and outer tie rod ends, maybe even a gearbox. Do you have someone that can rock the wheels back and forth while you look at parts?

When my neighbor gets home this afternoon I can.

[gaddy]

My thoughts mirrored jrebel. CV first off but would normally pop going forward as well. Ball joints can be bad and not wobble around like a bearing but pop up and down in the socket. Might put it on stands and jack under the control arm and watch and feel the joint to see if any up or down slop. I've used  large channel locks when unloaded as well. Could it be a cross member popping? Seen that before as well. Had a customer some years back that it only popped backing out of his driveway.
Not an expert on that particular model but these are things I've seen in the past on different vehicles.

Good idea from Woodchuck about having some one jerk the steering wheel around while looking and feeling stuff.

[jrebel]

How do you test a CV joint?
Take a Test Drive
Put the car in reverse. Then turn the steering wheel all the way to one side and drive backward in a circle. Turn the steering wheel in the other direction and repeat the process.
If you hear a very pronounced clicking or snapping noise, there's a good chance an outer CV joint is worn out.
Feb 18, 2021

[wadu1]

You could also check sway bar links and shock mounts. If it's in the air it's not shock issues.

[Woodchuck]

Those are new, I just replaced them yesterday. I filled both with grease & made all the bolts tight. Is there something else to installing those?

Other than alignment, no. I would be after inner and outer tie rod ends, maybe even a gearbox. Do you have someone that can rock the wheels back and forth while you look at parts?

When my neighbor gets home this afternoon I can.

That would make finding it a ton easier. Certainly check axles as well.
Are you really in Fargo?

[wadu1]

Also check the pitman arm, normally a Ford issue.

[Duckslayer89]

How do you test a CV joint?
Take a Test Drive
Put the car in reverse. Then turn the steering wheel all the way to one side and drive backward in a circle. Turn the steering wheel in the other direction and repeat the process.
If you hear a very pronounced clicking or snapping noise, there's a good chance an outer CV joint is worn out.
Feb 18, 2021

  That’s what mine did and was CV. Good test

[follow maggie]

Thanks for the input, everyone. Seems like the cv axle is the best place to go next, so I’m going to replace that next week when I get paid. It’s a lot cheaper than I thought- $135 at napa for a new one.  Looking at it, it doesn’t seem too hard, maybe I can get it done in 3-4 hours. Famous last words!  I might do the ball joints also while I have it apart.

[follow maggie]

Those are new, I just replaced them yesterday. I filled both with grease & made all the bolts tight. Is there something else to installing those?

Other than alignment, no. I would be after inner and outer tie rod ends, maybe even a gearbox. Do you have someone that can rock the wheels back and forth while you look at parts?

When my neighbor gets home this afternoon I can.

That would make finding it a ton easier. Certainly check axles as well.
Are you really in Fargo?

I am in Fargo. When I was done fighting cancer & my doc gave me the ok, I sold my house outside Bremerton & bought a house here for better quality of life, cheaper living & better fishing/hunting

[Duckslayer89]

Thanks for the input, everyone. Seems like the cv axle is the best place to go next, so I’m going to replace that next week when I get paid. It’s a lot cheaper than I thought- $135 at napa for a new one.  Looking at it, it doesn’t seem too hard, maybe I can get it done in 3-4 hours. Famous last words!  I might do the ball joints also while I have it apart.

Unless it’s really bad I would think twice. The replacements at the auto parts store are kind of junk. At least compared to the OEM Toyota ones. I bought a rebuilt Toyota one where they use Toyota steel and everything. Idk if that’s an option for your truck though.

[follow maggie]

Do you mean the cv axle, or ball joints?

[Woodchuck]

Those are new, I just replaced them yesterday. I filled both with grease & made all the bolts tight. Is there something else to installing those?

Other than alignment, no. I would be after inner and outer tie rod ends, maybe even a gearbox. Do you have someone that can rock the wheels back and forth while you look at parts?

When my neighbor gets home this afternoon I can.

That would make finding it a ton easier. Certainly check axles as well.
Are you really in Fargo?

I am in Fargo. When I was done fighting cancer & my doc gave me the ok, I sold my house outside Bremerton & bought a house here for better quality of life, cheaper living & better fishing/hunting

Awesome, I grew up a little north and east of there. 

[Duckslayer89]

Do you mean the cv axle, or ball joints?

CV axle

[follow maggie]

Wow. I called the Chevy shop & they want $800 for a cv axle, so I went with the napa version. The GM one is probably better, but I doubt it’s 6 times better. Going to change it tomorrow, hopefully it’ll solve my problem so I can get to hunting!

[wadu1]

Last time I needed dealer parts they wanted too much and 6 weeks. Went to NAPA they said 4-6 hours and a 1/3 the price. Got it home it was the OEM box. Good luck from now on.

[follow maggie]

Last time I needed dealer parts they wanted too much and 6 weeks. Went to NAPA they said 4-6 hours and a 1/3 the price. Got it home it was the OEM box. Good luck from now on.

I’ve been buying napa parts for a long time & haven’t had a problem, so I think it’ll be fine. I was just really surprised at what chevy wanted for a part that I think is relatively simple.

[Duckslayer89]

Last time I needed dealer parts they wanted too much and 6 weeks. Went to NAPA they said 4-6 hours and a 1/3 the price. Got it home it was the OEM box. Good luck from now on.

I’ve been buying napa parts for a long time & haven’t had a problem, so I think it’ll be fine. I was just really surprised at what chevy wanted for a part that I think is relatively simple.

Ya I wouldn’t have paid the 600 per axle Toyota wanted. Would have went generic instead and rolled the dice. I found an online person who takes OEM axles and refurbs them using the factory steel for less than 1/2 the price and they have improved boots for pitch angles. That’s another thing is your truck lifted? Wears CVs out faster

[thinkingman]

CV joint.

[Alchase]

I do not know if they are similar, when the front drive shaft CV Joint went out in my Dodge Dakota, the dealer want $850 for a replacement. I tried three different one from Rockauto, none fit. I took it to a local drive live builder (he builds the drive lives for most of the Street outlaw guys) he rebuilt mine for $230.

[follow maggie]

Last time I needed dealer parts they wanted too much and 6 weeks. Went to NAPA they said 4-6 hours and a 1/3 the price. Got it home it was the OEM box. Good luck from now on.

I’ve been buying napa parts for a long time & haven’t had a problem, so I think it’ll be fine. I was just really surprised at what chevy wanted for a part that I think is relatively simple.

Ya I wouldn’t have paid the 600 per axle Toyota wanted. Would have went generic instead and rolled the dice. I found an online person who takes OEM axles and refurbs them using the factory steel for less than 1/2 the price and they have improved boots for pitch angles. That’s another thing is your truck lifted? Wears CVs out faster

It’s stock. There’s almost 160,000 on it with lots of off-road, four wheel driving, hauling a camper & equipment trailers, so I think it’s a normal wear item for how I use it. I’ll be surprised if the other side isn’t very far behind.

The axle nut is on tight. I broke my 1/2” torque wrench today standing on it trying to get the nut loose.

[follow maggie]

I do not know if they are similar, when the front drive shaft CV Joint went out in my Dodge Dakota, the dealer want $850 for a replacement. I tried three different one from Rockauto, none fit. I took it to a local drive live builder (he builds the drive lives for most of the Street outlaw guys) he rebuilt mine for $230.

That’s good to know. I’ll look around for one of those guys around here, or on the inter webs.

[thinkingman]

Last time I needed dealer parts they wanted too much and 6 weeks. Went to NAPA they said 4-6 hours and a 1/3 the price. Got it home it was the OEM box. Good luck from now on.

I’ve been buying napa parts for a long time & haven’t had a problem, so I think it’ll be fine. I was just really surprised at what chevy wanted for a part that I think is relatively simple.

Ya I wouldn’t have paid the 600 per axle Toyota wanted. Would have went generic instead and rolled the dice. I found an online person who takes OEM axles and refurbs them using the factory steel for less than 1/2 the price and they have improved boots for pitch angles. That’s another thing is your truck lifted? Wears CVs out faster

It’s stock. There’s almost 160,000 on it with lots of off-road, four wheel driving, hauling a camper & equipment trailers, so I think it’s a normal wear item for how I use it. I’ll be surprised if the other side isn’t very far behind.

The axle nut is on tight. I broke my 1/2” torque wrench today standing on it trying to get the nut loose.

I installed a reman axle on my VW Passat and the axle bolt was torque to yield...140lbs plus 180 degrees...I can vouch for a Harbor Freight breaker bar with a 4' extension on it!

[Ghost Hunter]

Our Forester was having popping noises and more.  It's in for 200k full service, which now includes 2 front axles, brakes, and a starter.   Still better than a 5 year payment plan, for us.  Just got truck out from round 2-3 with a lot of new steering components and no diagnosis on intermittent engine fuel issues.   Hoping to salvage what's left of hunting season. 

[follow maggie]

Well, I got the new axle in yesterday & drove it a little bit today & the popping & banging noises are gone. Thanks to everyone on here for the input. It’s great that so many on here know so much stuff & are willing to share it.

[wadu1]

 

[Duckslayer89]

Well, I got the new axle in yesterday & drove it a little bit today & the popping & banging noises are gone. Thanks to everyone on here for the input. It’s great that so many on here know so much stuff & are willing to share it.

Awesome well done!

[Alchase]

Nice!