Drop away help!

[funkster]

 I decided to switch this year from the whisker biscuit to a drop away for my new Mathews reezen, after doing a little research I picked the new Trophy Ridge drop slide and I am really impressed on how quite, smooth and how it supports the arrow while drawing. I am overall impressed with the performance but the only problem(I know it is a big one ) is I am getting vane contact to the rest. After trying to tune for a few hours and even switching to a QAD ultra rest to see if it was just the rest, I am still getting contact. Does anyone have any experience with this rest or Can anyone lend some advice as to what my problem may be? I am shooting a mathews reezen set at 70lbs with a 30" draw shooting axis 300's with blazer vanes weighing 437 grains and shooting 294fps. Any help would be awesome!

[HawkenBob]

Is the rest bouncing back up after hitting the bow contacting the vanes? I have a 30" draw, and Im set at 70 also. I use a QAD pro series with the break that slows before it can bounce and its flawless. 

Im new to this but I hear some bounce and hit the vanes?

[HawkenBob]

I know the standard QAD does not have the break.

[bucklucky]

I shoot a Reezen also but have the G-5 expert and have no issues. I really like that rest, not sure what your problem is though. Im just a dummy that has the bow experts work on my chit  Trying to learn it though.

[funkster]

Is the rest bouncing back up after hitting the bow contacting the vanes? I have a 30" draw, and Im set at 70 also. I use a QAD pro series with the break that slows before it can bounce and its flawless. 

Im new to this but I hear some bounce and hit the vanes?

Yes,this is what I think is going on, is there anyway to fix this?. Is there a way to test this out besides the foot spray trick? I am not using the QAD I just switched to it to see if it was just the rest and I am getting contact with both rest.

Bucklucky, I am having the shop that has worked on all my bows trying to fix the problem but thought I would rack the brain of my fellow archers on this site as well. He told me this is the first drop slide he has worked on and was going to call his rep to see if there is a trick to get this rest working properly, it is hammering my vanes

[HawkenBob]

Have you used the stick on velvet under the rest? Or is it bare bow?

Both the trophy ridge and the QAD wont have a break. Only the upper end QAD pro series does. Im no expert but I suspect your fletching/arrow speed/and your long draw are all factors. With the longer draw your arrow is longer making timing a bit different coming thru the rest.

Id PM or call the guys at XXX archery. There my go to pro's when I cant figure it out. Sounds like you already have a pro shop on it though.

Im shooting 340's with blazer vanes and wraps with 100 grn points. At about 459 total. Maybe your arrow is too light and not rigid enough for your poundage and draw?

[Todd_ID]

http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php/topic,26560.0.html

I put up a bunch of info on this thread that may help you out, too.  Without being the one working on it, it is tough to make the right decision, so I put it all out there.  I'm guessing that if it is bounce back on the Drop Slide, then you'll have to set the rest up to drop later than normal to make the bounce-back happen after the vanes have left the rest; basically you'll be setting the rest up to work around the problem instead of stopping the bounce back.  They may have a weaker spring that you could try, also.  Hopefully the rep will have the answer you need!

[funkster]

I don't know how you would put anything under the rest since where it slides is enclosed? Here is a link to the rest  http://www.trophyridge.com/images/rests/drop-slide.jpg

I also wondered if my spine was to light I could try a heavier spined arrow to see if that helps any.

Todd ID, do you know how I would set it up to bounce back after the vanes have left? As I am 90% sure that this is the problem.

[HawkenBob]

Wow Todd, you have quite the bit of info there. I guess we have a inhouse pro too. So do you think his longer draw is a factor? Do rests have a timing adjustment? Or is it a matter of when your string is letting go per say?

Also, in my case, do you think the QAD with the break is helping me?

[Todd_ID]

Wow Todd, you have quite the bit of info there. I guess we have a inhouse pro too. So do you think his longer draw is a factor? Do rests have a timing adjustment? Or is it a matter of when your string is letting go per say?

Also, in my case, do you think the QAD with the break is helping me?

Hardly a pro.....just made every mistake possible over the years and try to learn from them.  Rest timing is set by the length of the cord.  You want it to come to the full up position about 2" before you get to full draw.  Therefore, the rest is dropping when the arrow has just been released and can't affect arrow flight any further.  The brake on the QAD is really the ticket.  Keep it and be happy!

[HawkenBob]

Ah yes, its a drop not a fall away. So bounce back isnt/shouldent be a factor? Ill let the pro's take it from here....

[funkster]

I am new to drop away lingo,what is break?

[Todd_ID]

I don't know how you would put anything under the rest since where it slides is enclosed? Here is a link to the rest  http://www.trophyridge.com/images/rests/drop-slide.jpg

I also wondered if my spine was to light I could try a heavier spined arrow to see if that helps any.

Todd ID, do you know how I would set it up to bounce back after the vanes have left? As I am 90% sure that this is the problem.

With the Drop Slide there is no "under" to it, so that's not really an option.  Timing is, however, very possible to tinker with.  First off, if you're activating the rest with the cable slide and having problems, then move the cord to the downward travelling buss cable.  This cable moves further and more predictably than the cable slide.  Then you can adjust the timing.  

In your case, try making the cord shorter to leave the rest up until about 1/4 of the length of the arrow has travelled on the rest.  The rest should hit bottom as the vanes clear and then bounce back up after they have gone by.  To check this simply draw the bow with an arrow nocked; watch to see when the rest reaches its full up position, and this will be the place in the shot where the rest will start dropping..  Adjust the cord length accordingly.  Shorter cord means rest rises sooner, and vice versa.

[Todd_ID]

I am new to drop away lingo,what is break?

Some rests have a brake in them that holds the arms down when they fall.  Most don't have it.  Usually you can tune around any problems with rest timing, but having the brake keeps bounce back from being a problem.

[Todd_ID]

Longer draw lengths are easier to tune drop away timing because the cables travel further.  My daughter's 23" draw length is tough to get clearance on, but a 30" is relatively easy.