Choosing arrow build

[Stein]

So, not focusing on actual components, here are the choices I have.  First, my current build (all numbers from Archer's Advantage):

461 grain, 12.6%, 285 fps 125 grain broadhead

Messing around with arrow length and broadhead, I could also do these:

445 grain, 13.1%, 290 fps, 125 grain broadhead
486 grain, 14.6%, 279 fps, 150 grain broadhead
449 grain, 13%, 289 fps, 125 grain broadhead

I'm thinking it's 6 of one, half dozen of the other and should just keep what I have.  That said, I have never killed anything with a bow and don't know much about archery at all.

Any noticeable reason to change?  I have a 31" draw length and shoot 65#, so there aren't many workable shafts so I am pretty much stuck with what I have and mess with weight up front and a small amount of length adjustment.

I have a dozen new arrows and am planning to work up a practice set soon.

[Dysfunctional Vet]

Perfect arrow flight is probably more important than the small differences in arrow weight. My personal preference is heavy arrow, high FOC and stiff spine. I haven’t shot an animal yet but I like the way the arrows fly in late season when it’s windy and raining. I picked an arrow and tested them with field points ranging from 100-300 grains. I’m an FNG to archery as well, but I really like to tinker.

[phildobaggins]

I'd go with the 449 grain, 13%, 289 fps, 125 grain broadhead.

Won't need to buy a bunch of new broadheads/FP's, can FPS and FOC. See how they fly.

[IFunk]

Based on your FPS Spec I assume you are using a compound bow.  I'm a stickbow guy so I can't comment on wheelbows.  But if you're getting good results with your current setup I wouldn't get too wrapped around the axle in regards to fps, gpp etc.  I would just continue to practice on shot placement with what you have out to ethical distances. There is no substitute for a well placed shot. 

[Karl Blanchard]

I've killed a dump truck load of animals with a bow and I can say with 100% certainty that the differences between all those different arrow configurations is inconsequential on accuracy and lethality within realistic hunting distances.  I've gone down the rabbit hole, crawled back out, and went down it again over the years.  Have a FOC of 12%+, keep adding weight till you're around 270-290fps and shoot a SHARP BROADHEAD.

[Magnum_Willys]

Everything comes into focus when you start shooting - get some time in with what you have,  you will find it looks too slow, wobbles, hits target at an angle, etc, etc.  or hopefully it flies straight and is perfect.  Then start tinkering.

Nothing comes close to mattering as much as practice, and if on game a good broadhead.

[Karl Blanchard]

I should add too that I always stress learning how to properly tune your setup because an arrow that flies true is more important than 2% more FOC or 8gr more weight etc. 

[OltHunter]

Karl beat me to it.  What you listed will be insignificant unless you are a professional shooter other than maybe a small POI change 40+ yards.

Learning to super tune will be the biggest help.  Torque tuning and creep tuning I've found especially helpful in high stress situations too.

What spine arrow are you running and making sure you are not under spined will be important.  I would think you'd be 300 based on your initial specs.  If you are 350, you might need to watch your weight out front.  I'd throw out the 486 not knowing your arrow length and spine.

Vane configuration will be helpful, trying out offset, helical, 3, 4 van to see what best stabilizes your broadheads best and quietest.  That is soley a group size function. 

using cold melt on components will be valuable in tests like you want to swap out parts with ease.  There are some tricks to it though, but easy to do and have them hold.  Then glue them in later when you figure it out.

From all my tinkering, I've found generally around 15+ grains and 3 pounds of draw weight will change tune, especially with micros and underspined situations, so keep that in mind when you're swapping stuff around to recheck your tune.

But to answer you question - the 461 is the best middle ground of speed and weight.  Next would be 449.

[huntnfmly]

All good info
If you’re spined right  on that 486 grain I like that one with the weight up front it’s minimal but it has just a little more momentum and the weight up front will help pull that arrow more than steered from behind 👍

[Stein]

Thanks guys, that helps.  I was basically looking for confirmation that it's a reasonable setup and no big gains to be made switching everything up.  From what I read and above, it seems like the arrow will kill an elk or deer which is all I need.

I'm shooting standard 3 fletch 2"Blazers with a 2 degree helical.  Shafts are Easton Bloodline 240s cut to just shy of 31" carbon to carbon.  I could go with 250s or 260s, but the gpi is significantly higher with something like the Axis 5mm, so it kills the FOC.  I was able to grab another dozen as I think they have discontinued the Bloodline 240s or maybe they are just super hard to find.

Anyway, I have shot these arrows for a couple years and have been shooting a bunch this year.  I tuned the bow two years ago with the broadheads and got pretty much dead nuts same point of impact with either tip, so I'm confident with the setup.  I didn't hunt archery last year.

I won't be shooting far, I intentionally don't have a slider sight so there is no way to go beyond my last pin.  I'm confident to 50 and my personal limit is 40 ideal conditions and 20-30 is the goal.  I just moved into progressive lenses and eyesight is quickly becoming my limiting factor.  It has taken me probably a month to get my shooting back to where it was before the new glasses.

If I changed the arrow I would obviously have to spend time adjusting the sight and possibly bow tuning which would likely be time better spent practicing.

[mburrows]

Have you shot that set up  through paper, bare shaft or with broad heads yet? That will tell you everything you need to know.

With that stiff of a shaft you could probably even add some point weight and see good results.

At the end of the day if broadheada hit where you aim that’s really all that matters.

[GWP]

I should add too that I always stress learning how to properly tune your setup because an arrow that flies true is more important than 2% more FOC or 8gr more weight etc. 

This.
My last set up was a lighter arrow that blistered along at a fast pace, and while I did kill with it and it had good damage, I will probably go heavier with the next one at a slower speed and restrict myself to under 40 yards.
I have not arrowed a critter at more than that, ever, but always practiced from close to 80 yards.

[Stein]

Have you shot that set up  through paper, bare shaft or with broad heads yet? That will tell you everything you need to know.

With that stiff of a shaft you could probably even add some point weight and see good results.

At the end of the day if broadheada hit where you aim that’s really all that matters.

Yeah, it all looks good on paper and on target out past my last pin.

I did think about putting a BAR up there but can't find the ones I need in stock and it's only 5 grains anyway.  The brass insert is 32 grains heavier so I could do that as well but it seemed easier to just bump the broadhead 25 grains since I already have the regular inserts.

Honestly, I'm also trying to hold out for a new arrow that fits the bill as the Bloodline is OK, but is now no longer available and a tad stiff anyway.  I can't be the only guy with ape arms that needs a stiff, lighter gpi arrow.

[Farmer72]

I have a 30" draw and my new set up I am running about 70# (since that is what my old bow was set at) with arrows cut 28" carbon to carbon I am running a Black Eagle (BE) X-Impact 250 spine. With a 100 gr tip, the BE FOCOS system (which adds 80 gr.), and 3ea. TAC Driver 2.75" vanes gives me 473 gr. total weight. My FOC is 15.3 per the calculator. The BE FOCOS system adds about an inch to the length of the arrow so my total length is 29.5" from the throat of the nock to end without a tip screwed in. I still need to get out and chrono my arrows but my sight tape is for 279 fps. I might have gotten away with a 300 spine but my bow goes up to 80# and for that I would need the 250. Plus I would rather be a little stiffer than not.

[Stein]

Thanks Farmer, haven't looked at that shaft, the GPI looks good at 9.5, it's close to what I have now (9.4).  I looked at other Easton arrows like the Axis, but in 260 they are 11.5 which puts the hurt to FOC.

I'll have to remember that one as I probably only have a year backstock of the Bloodline shafts left.

[Farmer72]

I was going to go with a .204" (5mm) arrow but I was talking to someone I trusted they said why go with the .166" and since i couldn't find the ones I was looking for I said what the heck. So far I am impressed with my bow and these arrows but it doesn't take much when I went from a 2005 PSE Firestorm Lite (30" ATA) and Gold tip XT hunters to a 2021 PSE EVO EVL (34" ATA) and Black Eagle X-Impacts. I was tossing between the GT Airstrike and the BE X-Impact since I couldn't find the Victory RIP TKO.