Agreed with Longfield1, I was going to say 33+ only because along with string angle, I don't know of many sub-33 bows that get out to 31". The longer brace and longer ATA the better angle and forgiving the bow will be but as you get longer, the harder it is to pack around off trail and shoot in high winds. Most cams now are so big, the 33" are actually closer to a 36" ATA, even a little more.
You're in luck that there are a lot of options at 31". If you were 32"+, it's a major PITA.
I have my own "pro shop" and have shot and tuned all the major players flagships that I buy used and resell later. or keep that got to 32" draw length. I would happily recommend any major manufacturer. Mathews, Hoyt, Bowtech, Prime, PSE. You should try to get to a shop to shoot a bunch and see what feels best for you, balance, feel, hand shock, string angle, etc.
For me, I've settled on Mathews as my main and backup bows (Traverse and Atlas). I also have a Prime CT9 I play around with for target and a Bowtech bt mag x that I was going to sell, but let my brother in law borrow it, he slid down a bank with it, so needless to say, I wont sell it now, but he still shoots it. He also dry fired it with no issues. I've gone through 1 set of limbs through warranty on them (A known ding against Bowtech). Warranty work was great though. They are extremely tuneable without a press, probably I'd say the most tuneable for the average archer.
I loved Hoyt but couldn't get past the grip. Probably my best shooter and easiest to tune for me. Bowtech had a similar grip for me.
I liked prime enough to keep one (they are super cheap new online for past model), but the double rail cam is noticeably louder and harder to get a good tune and have it stick.
PSE was early in my quest, to me seemed a level below Hoyt and Mathews build wise, but I know a lot has been going on that is great at PSE now.
Mathews grips are very repeatable for me, they are the deadest and most quiet, though I've had issues with their claimed IBO's not panning out, but that's about it. They are a little more expensive to tune properly since you have to buy top hats and/or cams for draw length and poundage (switchweights now), but they also hold it dead nuts longer than split buss yoke systems.
Everyone's answer would be different to the bows above, so it's up to you to figure that out.
Don't overlook the used market for a prior year(s) bow. You can get them for $800 to $500 and sell them a year later for close to the same if it's popular and you can get that sweet spot of finding the right seller and timing. The used bow market has high turnover and depreciates like a car in the first year or 2. If you have access to a good pro shop or have a press and can tune them yourself, I'd definitely recommend buying used. Starting now till early next year is a good time as the new bows come in and people are looking to off load those terrible last year's models! ha
