Western WA Pasture fertilizer

[Birdguy]

We have roughly 10 acres of pasture that has not has cows on it in 4 years. I bought a couple cows this spring and with no rain from June to last week the grass is in really tough shape. I would like to put down a little fertilizer in the coming weeks to help it recover and start it off better next spring. (If there is no benefit to this please let me know that too.) If someone has a recommendation or two I would love to hear it. There is plenty of weeds in it and not concerned if they do better too at this point. I plan to drag and overseed some of the pastures in the spring for additional help then but a jump now could not hurt. Thank you.

[LDennis24]

Just use something with high nitrogen and low phos and low potassium. Nitrogen is the most important in the fall.

[PolarBear]

I’ve been using 16-16-16 on all my pastures for years with great success. I’m not this year because a 50# bag that I was paying $14 a year and a half ago is now almost $30. I’m probably going to do bulk lime instead. Adding lime is also a great way of sweetening your soil and lessening your weeds. Take a soil sample to your local feed store (not a chain) and ask to have it tested.

[boneaddict]

Dragging it will help lots. If you don’t want to spend the money on fertilizer. 

[C-Money]

I wonder if Wilbur Ellis burning in Moses Lake will effect fertilizer prices?? I burned the crap outta parts of my yard with 16 16 16 a couple years ago...be careful  . I usually get the Scotts burn proof stuff, but I got brave.

[LDennis24]

In the fall you shouldn't be using your basic miracle grow or even dose fertilizer. The only thing your grass needs is nitrogen unless your soil is seriously deficient in nutrients. The only exception is if you have a dormant warm climate type.grass like Bermuda or something. Then you shouldn't fertilize at all and wait for spring to again, only use a nitrogen based fertilizer.

[KFhunter]

Brush hog and drag is all I do in the fall. Our fall tends to go from popcorn fart dry to frozen overnight. The grass isn't growing enough to pull in fertilizer, so it sits there evaporating into the atmosphere.  You might have a decent growth in the fall and the roots might pull it in and store it, but you'll need to get it in the window.

Spring it's soil sample and custom mix fert

[HUNTIN4SIX]

Lots to think about on this subject.  Straight nitrogen is probably the consensus.  Are you going to use liquid or dry?  Sounds like this is not a lawn....10 acres needs to be done on a larger scale.  You will need to know how much N you want to put down.  My typical spring application is 200lbs/acre of 32-0 dry or 20gal/acre of 30-0 Liquid.  These are estimates.  You might want to go 1/2 the amount for a fall application in your case.  Some local Ag business might provide a fertilizer cart if you buy from them, not sure about your area.  There is more to it than buying a few bags of 16-16-16 and gettin after it.

[PolarBear]

Lawns are not the same as pastures

[PolarBear]

Dragging it will help lots. If you don’t want to spend the money on fertilizer.

Just spent the last week dragging pastures.

[Birdguy]

Thanks all, will definitely be dragging a couple pastures and may disc one in the spring to see what that does. There is grass there and it grows pretty well when we have rain. With NO rain in September  and the first 20 days of October it certainly shortened the window for helping it. The weather going from a high of 85 to 50 in week probably does not help much either. I will try a couple things and see what works the best. Can drag and get some nitrogen on it fairly soon I think, will start there and build a plan for spring and a "normal" fall. I knew there would be advice on here and I certainly appreciate it.

[PolarBear]

This is a good time to plant rye. Getting ready to seed a few acres.  Planting clover in the spring will naturally add nitrogen to your soil.

[nwwanderer]

Established mostly grass?  Late fall is best for application.  Get a soil test, basic N-P-K and pH.  Soils are very different around the PNW, test gives you a place to start.  Your current source of N will probably be urea, 46-0-0.  If it is applied on surface loss can occur with high temps so late fall to stop loss and give grass a boost early to get ahead of the weeds is best.  Low pH?  Lime is only real answer but tough to get it to do the job with a surface application.  Using CaSO4, gypsum, for sulfur will give a neutral soil reaction and not lower pH plus give you calcium important to soil critters.  100 pounds per acre of urea and the same of gypsum would do wonders, have them blended and one tote will get it done.  Might want to drag it again after the fert.  Good luck!!