Arrows ?

[elksnout]

Been out of archery for a few years, now bug has bitten back. I had always shot aluminum arrows. Now carbon is the typical set up. Does it really matter ? If so, are all carbons about equal in quality ? They run in price from 70.00 to 150.00 per dozen. What's the difference and would you really see it in the archery woods come fall ?

[ELKBURGER]

Welcome back! I recentley converted to the carbon arrow craze. They are more expensive but if you dont lose them there tough. Alum are just as good as they always were, but carbons are lighter, faster, more durable, and potetially more accurate. I personally shoot the cheaper line of carbons. I'm gaining alot of benefits with just a small gain in cost. I suggest you make the jump.

[bowkid]

You need to make sure that you don't get arrows that are to light for the draw weight you are shooting.  The best thing to do is go to a archery shop with your bow. I bought some off the i-net that were to light and they flew all over the place.  I shoot at around 63# and I now have arrows with 125 grain tips, total weight is around 590 grains and shoot very straight.  Also there is a WA. law that you should look up in the game regs, depending on your draw weight your arrows and tips have to weigh so much also.  Good luck.

[elksnout]

Thank you for the information. With carbon you pretty much size your arrows with the weight of your bow, correct ? And I would need to narrow the prongs on my rest for the narrower carbons too I think. And I've heard that they do not bend and last longer if you aren't hitting rocks and such !!!

[adam.WI]

As far as more accurate and last longer I would say these things are all in the eye of the beholder, but they certainly are faster and lighter. The prongs on your rest may or may not have to be moved, it depends on how they were set to begin with. As far as the size simply find the arrow that you chose and look at manufactures chart. That is the most accurate way of being in the safe zone for the arrows. I shoot carbons but have though of going back to aluminum's because I always found them to be a little more forgiving. I would say they are worth looking into though.

[yajsab]

Welcome back.

Why not shoot both, in the Full Metal Jacket.  I started out shooting just carbon, but this year will be carbon and aluminum (FMJ) for my elk setup.  I need to go heavy.

[ELKBURGER]

I had a 1/2 dozen of the fmj's and they were great. Definetly heavy but too expensive for me to buy more. I bought some cheap ones at sportsmans and they're working great for me.

[adam.WI]

I forgot to mention that when you buy carbons, buy the "hunter" line. The straightness is .006 usually, I think. they will be cheaper and straighter than 99% of us can shoot. One way to combat the price factor of the sport

[Ray]

I get the impression with my shooting carbon and also a tiny bit aluminum arrows that neither is really that much better when it comes to accuracy. I could be wrong but I am not a competitive shooter.

Carbon is simply more durable and expensive from my experiences.

[EastWaViking]

I get the impression with my shooting carbon and also a tiny bit aluminum arrows that neither is really that much better when it comes to accuracy. I could be wrong but I am not a competitive shooter.

Carbon is simply more durable and expensive from my experiences.

More expensive, and durable is right, which makes them cheaper in the long run, I have some arrows that are almost 10 years old and have been through several big game animals, just replace the fletchings from time to time and keep using them.

[elksnout]

I've learned alot with your responses. Going to a 3D shoot this weekend. Interested to see what everybody shoots. Bet it's mostly carbons though.....

[tlbradford]

With the research I did with the carbon arrows, especially the tapered EFOC arrows, you do gain an advantage in penetration and strength, due to shaft diameter decreasing from the front, and the carbon creates less friction than wood and aluminum.  What I am having trouble with now is deciding what broadhead to go with, since it is agreed that the ferrule should be as wide or slightly wider than the arrow shaft, to see greater gains in penetration.  The tapered shaft really limits your choices if you want to meet that criteria.

[elksnout]

Another question. What's up with the Blaser vanes ?  See alot of them. Everybody { almost } were shooting them at the 3D shoot today. Do they control arrows better ? Or just the new craze ?

[Crunchy]

I think Blazer vanes are overrated.  I fletch my own arrows and was able to do a side by side test.  I thought my 4 inches vanes shot broadheads better. 

[Broken nock]

Carbons are a good choice if that's what you choose to go with. Price depends on quality. I noticed Adam.Wi. posted about the "hunter line" If he is talking about the Beaman Bowhunter he is corect about the straightness factor being .006, but the Beaman Hunter has a straightness factor of .003. If you don't shoot over 40 yrds. then the .006 factor is fine, but if you shoot past 40 yrds. like for 3-d's you want the .003. for the simple fact that the straightness factor only comes in to play for long rane stabilization. People have transitioned to the blazers because they are a little stiffer which will still stabilize a broadhead, but are shorter which means you loose grain wieght to produce less arrow drop due to a faster arrow.