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Author Topic: Motor Oil (Conventional, Synthetic Blend, Full Synthetic)  (Read 13700 times)

Offline Woodchuck

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Re: Motor Oil (Conventional, Synthetic Blend, Full Synthetic)
« Reply #15 on: January 19, 2010, 09:24:23 AM »
yes synthetic lubricates better, the only downfall is that the molecules are smaller, so what is a small oil leak will become more pronounced, i sell amsoil and just as a little testimonial, a honda accord i have is supposed to have valves adjusted every 30k, i put amsoil in it at 10k, opened it at 187k and had one valve .002 out, the rest were on the money. i suggest that if you go amsoil run 6k, change the filter(use a premium filter NOT FRAM) and add what you lose, then do a full change in another 6 and so on. there is no reason you cant switch back to conventional at any point, tht is just someone trying to keep you in-house
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Offline TEX-X

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Re: Motor Oil (Conventional, Synthetic Blend, Full Synthetic)
« Reply #16 on: January 19, 2010, 09:34:36 AM »
the way you get around the leaking seals when you run sythetic is to run a thicker oil....  say from a 5W-30 change to a 20W-50... that'll usually curb it for a while...  (i'm not talking about a worn engine that has blow by.... but an engine that has leaking valve seal for instance...)

Offline Woodchuck

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Re: Motor Oil (Conventional, Synthetic Blend, Full Synthetic)
« Reply #17 on: January 19, 2010, 09:43:04 AM »
um........ i would offer different advice on that
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Offline Buckmark

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Re: Motor Oil (Conventional, Synthetic Blend, Full Synthetic)
« Reply #18 on: January 19, 2010, 09:46:18 AM »
the way you get around the leaking seals when you run sythetic is to run a thicker oil....  say from a 5W-30 change to a 20W-50... that'll usually curb it for a while...  (i'm not talking about a worn engine that has blow by.... but an engine that has leaking valve seal for instance...)
Oh yes please do this, i love engine replacment jobs, good money maker
DO NOT PUT 20-50 in an engine that calls for 5w whatever oil.
On the syn, blend, conv argument, how many on here have ever had a true oil related engine failure? im talking you were religious about your service, change oil and filter every 3k or so, made sure the level was full all the time and used the same brand and weight of oil and your engine failed due to the oil you used??
Lack of oil or lack of maintinance accounts for almost every failure i see, i see quite a few.
I'm not sold on syn or blends, clean oil and full of oil is as important or more important, how many of you are really going to keep yur vehicle long enough to know if it really is better? Do you have 2 vehicles that are the same to have a comparable? I have had lots of engines in lots of stuff (cars, trucks, tractors, lawnmowers, etc etc) and never had failures that were soley caused by the oil i was using, have had trucks with over 300k that used conventional oil its whole life that ran fine.
My dad has a 1970 nova that was my great uncles bought new in 1970, original engine still runs great and who knows what brand or weight of oils have been used.
 
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Offline Woodchuck

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Re: Motor Oil (Conventional, Synthetic Blend, Full Synthetic)
« Reply #19 on: January 19, 2010, 09:51:19 AM »
 :yeah: :yeah: :yeah: :yeah:
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Offline TEX-X

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Re: Motor Oil (Conventional, Synthetic Blend, Full Synthetic)
« Reply #20 on: January 19, 2010, 10:07:21 AM »
"Oh yes please do this, i love engine replacment jobs, good money maker
DO NOT PUT 20-50 in an engine that calls for 5w whatever oil."

sounds like a generic answer for a stealership trying to get out of warranty work is what that sounds like to me....  always trying to blame an engine failure on something the customer did instead of an actual engine failure...  I'm not saying that customers don't screw up and shell motors.... they do.... but that is not the case 100 percent of the time....  the man was asking for personal opinions so i gave it to him...  I run a smaller auto repair shop i'm my own boss and i'm not saying i know everything in the world but hey i know my way around a few motors.... I'm pretty sure that the old 1970 nova that you speak of has at one time or the other used a heavier weight oil to curb leaking valve seals...  I have a 454 chevrolet i built that now now has about 35,000 miles on it... i've ran 20w-50 in it its whole life... the tolerances on bearing clearances and all that garb were alot looser in the 70's than they are today...  if you don't think that people have engine failures as a result of *censored*ty oil you are sadly mistaken....sludge gunk and grime that cheaper oils cannot clean out as readily will clog oil passages and that will result in  engine failure..I just R&Red a 03 chrysler 4.7 that the customer had used coastal 5w-30 from the dollar tree...the internals on the motor looked like someone had poured liquid charcoal into the motor.I did not tell the above person to put 20W-50 into his NEW tundra that is straight up retarded... I simply put that answer into the post from JIMKD8 about synthetic molecules being smaller than conventional...in return cause a motor to leak...  I agree...   I've only given my 2 cents....  that in no way shape or form is exactly what the starter of the topic should do....  it's not bad advice it's advice i follow myself... to each his own...Read my posts and understand them before you run your *censored*ing mouth...

Offline Buckmark

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Re: Motor Oil (Conventional, Synthetic Blend, Full Synthetic)
« Reply #21 on: January 19, 2010, 10:47:38 AM »
Whoo, Whoo there TEX, i understood your post, you said heh if your running 5w30 just change over to 20w50, and that is bad advice for a late model vehicle, you did not qualify your statment by saying if it is an older engine, say 80's or older.
As far as the Nova, it use's 10w30 castrol, i know because i service the vehicle.
And no i do not work for a dealer.
I have been doing and have been in the repair business for over 27yrs so its not a hobby for me and i'm not saying i know everthing but i do have alot of experience to draw from.
My grandfather had a saying "Grease is cheaper than parts", change your oil often, use a good quality oil and make sure the level is full between changes and you should never have an oil related failure.
The #1 reason for failures that i have been seeing lately is lack of oil in engines, lack of service at regular intervals and routine level checks.
Extended service intervals of 7500+ miles is great but you still need to check the level and people do not do this, an engine will consume oil during normal use and when the manufacture says they dont need to service as often then checking it gets over looked, which leads to low levels, oil starvation and engine failure. Almost every single engine failure i see, the first thing i pull is the oil level indicator (dipstick) and it is usually dry..

 
To hunt and butcher an animal is to recognize that meat is not some abstract form of protein that springs into existence tightly wrapped in cellophane and styrofoam.

Offline huntnphool

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Re: Motor Oil (Conventional, Synthetic Blend, Full Synthetic)
« Reply #22 on: January 19, 2010, 10:48:00 AM »
My wife and I bought a brand new Honda Accord back in 89 that we ended up giving to my brother about 3 years ago. The car has 400K+ on it, still gets 30+mpg and runs like a top. I had always done the oil myself and used Castrol 10-30. That being said I do use synthetics in my current cars.
The things that come to those who wait, may be the things left by those who got there first!

Offline TEX-X

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Re: Motor Oil (Conventional, Synthetic Blend, Full Synthetic)
« Reply #23 on: January 19, 2010, 10:56:22 AM »
Whoo, Whoo there TEX, i understood your post, you said heh if your running 5w30 just change over to 20w50, and that is bad advice for a late model vehicle, you did not qualify your statment by saying if it is an older engine, say 80's or older.
As far as the Nova, it use's 10w30 castrol, i know because i service the vehicle.
And no i do not work for a dealer.
I have been doing and have been in the repair business for over 27yrs so its not a hobby for me and i'm not saying i know everthing but i do have alot of experience to draw from.
My grandfather had a saying "Grease is cheaper than parts", change your oil often, use a good quality oil and make sure the level is full between changes and you should never have an oil related failure.
The #1 reason for failures that i have been seeing lately is lack of oil in engines, lack of service at regular intervals and routine level checks.
Extended service intervals of 7500+ miles is great but you still need to check the level and people do not do this, an engine will consume oil during normal use and when the manufacture says they dont need to service as often then checking it gets over looked, which leads to low levels, oil starvation and engine failure. Almost every single engine failure i see, the first thing i pull is the oil level indicator (dipstick) and it is usually dry..

 

I definately agree with your grandfather..that is why i religiously change oil at 3500 on EVERYTHING  I just can't let my self let an engine go 5000 plus miles on an oil even if it's the recommendation of the oil maker.  oil is cheaper than parts.... i didn't mean to jump your ass... it's been a bad morning...  I hate dealerships and the only thing i hate more is talking to the Techs... yes i know that there are a bunch of good techs and dealerships out there but they are getting few and far between..... i should've clarified on my 20W-50 advice being for an older motor...  my apologies...

Offline Woodchuck

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Re: Motor Oil (Conventional, Synthetic Blend, Full Synthetic)
« Reply #24 on: January 19, 2010, 11:03:53 AM »
kum by yah my lord kum by yah, hang in there boys i think we all hate dealerships!   (pot shot at jackelope intended  :chuckle:, teasing, teasing)
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Offline TEX-X

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Re: Motor Oil (Conventional, Synthetic Blend, Full Synthetic)
« Reply #25 on: January 19, 2010, 11:06:32 AM »
hopefully jackelope isn't anything like the yahoo stealership techs that i've had dealings with

Offline Woodchuck

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Re: Motor Oil (Conventional, Synthetic Blend, Full Synthetic)
« Reply #26 on: January 19, 2010, 11:09:43 AM »
no, he is a good guy i just had to give him crap
Antlered rabbit tastes like chicken


Inuendo, wasn't he an Italian proctoligist?

Offline Buckmark

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Re: Motor Oil (Conventional, Synthetic Blend, Full Synthetic)
« Reply #27 on: January 19, 2010, 11:17:17 AM »
 :brew:
To hunt and butcher an animal is to recognize that meat is not some abstract form of protein that springs into existence tightly wrapped in cellophane and styrofoam.

Offline huntnphool

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Re: Motor Oil (Conventional, Synthetic Blend, Full Synthetic)
« Reply #28 on: January 19, 2010, 11:28:29 AM »
 Besides, Jackelope is the one you give the keys to and shake hands with when you pick it up, he don't get grease on his hands. :rolleyes:
The things that come to those who wait, may be the things left by those who got there first!

Offline TEX-X

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Re: Motor Oil (Conventional, Synthetic Blend, Full Synthetic)
« Reply #29 on: January 19, 2010, 11:29:37 AM »
lmfao!  i think they prefer being called "administrative technician"

 


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