Author Topic: Any experienced climbers? (Read 10754 times)

MuleySniper · « **on:** January 10, 2010, 02:46:16 PM »

Hi guys. Figured I would give this a shot here. I along with one of my good buddies are really wanting to climb Mt. Rainier this year. Were thinking sometime between May and July? We've looked at a couple different guide sources and its more than we really want to spend to do it. I have a descent hiking background and a majority of the appropriate high end gear needed to hike most of the cascades, but I know Rainier is a little more involved. IE ropes, crampons, etc. We plan on renting whatever other gear needed. Anyway, I'm throwing this out on here that there might be someone who has done, or does Rainier that would like to accompany us on this. Obviously not looking for a freebie, but maybe we can save a few bucks. We are both in shape so there won't be any whining or whimpering with either of us. Also I don't consider myself selfish at all, knowing there are risks involved, were obviously going in on this with a team mindset. I don't want someone to think there will be any babysitting. If anyone is interested, PM me and hopefully we can make some kind of deal.
Thanks
MS

NWBREW · « **Reply #1 on:** January 10, 2010, 03:07:06 PM »

I will say that is to tough for me.........Good luck and STAY SAFE.

wildmanoutdoors · « **Reply #2 on:** January 13, 2010, 08:12:34 AM »

Just an FYI for anyone interested in regards to wondering if your in good enough shape.

As a test, if you can hike the Mt Si trail in 1 hour and 10 minutes with 50 pounds on your back you should be able to summit Rainier leaving from basecamp at 10,000 in the normal alloted 6 hours. This is if the elevation dosent make you sick of coarse.

Harder for you eastsiders I know to get over here but thought Id throw it out there.

Thats 4 miles and 3150 elevation gain.

I do Adams in Sept and its a great hike for those not wanting to get into glacier work using ropes and such. I did that in 13 hours from the parking lot and back. No base camping.

jackelope · « **Reply #3 on:** January 13, 2010, 08:23:46 AM »

by base camp you mean camp muir right?

my little brother is in really great physical shape--a marathoner, runs 100 miles a week, etc....total flatlander from pennsylvania. if you're in good shape you shouldn't have any trouble as long as the altitude doesn't get you. he was bothered by the altitude around 13k but walked out of it. in the same place on the descent it got him again. his group was him and 2 former ironman triathlete dudes and the guide. they left for the summit from muir in the dark and went all the way back to the parking lot from the summit and were down by around 6pm if i remember correctly. i think if i remember correctly i was driving home from work when he called to let me know he was in the car. he said the worst part was the steep downhills, and if i remember correctly specifically was from camp muir down...but this was after climbing all day.
some of the details might be inaccurate as it's been a couple years.

MuleySniper · « **Reply #4 on:** January 13, 2010, 01:16:26 PM »

So far its looking like we will be booking through MRI if things work out. We've talked to people that have used them and they have been highly recommended. They get $930 for a 4 day deal. Day three you climb to Muir then day 4 leave early, hopefully summit then head back down. They say you should arrive back in Ashford in the afternoon, early evening. The only available dates that would work for our prospected 5 person group are at the end of June. Again, I'm not concerned about my physical shape. Ive been running 7 miles almost daily for the last four weeks and have been doing some weights. I eat healthier then ever before and I have zero bad habits. I even slimmed down beer to maybe one a week

Ive done plenty of hiking in my days, carrying almost double the weight needed to do Rainier also. I'll also need to rent some gear too. I have basic stuff, just not the crampons, ice axe and such. I had a connection to a guy that climbed Rainier 12 times and is very experienced, but his wife is having a baby soon so he isn't doing any climbs this year. My main focus on this thread was to hopefully find an experienced connection, but if not, oh well. Thanks for the input guys.
MS
MS

jackelope · « **Reply #5 on:** January 13, 2010, 01:36:10 PM »

MRI is RMI.

thats who my bro went with. they left in the dark...summited in the light and were back at the car in the early evening. they took the cowlitz cleaver route to the summit which i think is the same route that pretty much everyone else takes.

wastickslinger · « **Reply #6 on:** January 13, 2010, 02:08:08 PM »

Count me out unless I get to kill something. Even then I might still say no thanks, I am a wuss.

wildmanoutdoors · « **Reply #7 on:** January 13, 2010, 02:10:10 PM »

Quote from: jackelope on January 13, 2010, 08:23:46 AM

by base camp you mean camp muir right?

Yes sir, Muir is the place. It would be nice to have your party private if you can find someone to lead it that has experience. Sounds like that is out though. The chain gangs push so hard and limit your time at the top so much. Might be for your own safety, but private climbs with great predictable conditions are much more pleasant as you can sit and relax awhile. Coarse after one you could easily do it yourself the next times.

Anyway, good luck up there. Nothing like being on top of the world.

Ray · « **Reply #8 on:** January 13, 2010, 02:28:28 PM »

I don't see how the first time is any harder than the second time. I think what you need to be well rehearsed in is crevasse rescue. That way you don't feel helpless when someone's in a bind. Simply walking up the mountain isn't really easier the first or second time - if your fitness level doesn't change and all things being generally equal..

So if I was going to give a recommendation. I would take a one or two day class in crevasse rescue. Then start getting experience with a small group of people (3-4) with glacier travel. This state has a lot more than Mount Rainier where you can get that... Then I would select a route which isn't bombarded with crowds during a time frame which has good weather and good conditions on the mountain. Kautz Glacier , Gib Ledges, Fuhrer's Finger, or Emmons Glacier would be good options as opposed to the standard south side route. Although the Emmons has some crowding concerns as well.

jackelope · « **Reply #9 on:** January 13, 2010, 02:51:19 PM »

how many times have you been up there, Ray?

Special T · « **Reply #10 on:** January 13, 2010, 03:17:12 PM »

I climbed via the inner glacier, Ingram glacier stayed the night at steamboat prow, where the emmons and Ingram split then up to the top... that route is just NE of the RMI route.. I agree with ray. less traveled pass always prettier. if you don't have all the gear RMI might be the best way, but it is a forced march and they keep you moving or turn you around. I think the safeest time to go is in august when all of the crevasses are exposed... Freedom of the hills and Mountaineer's hand book are good reads and show step by step how and what to do. I used to guide for the Boy Scouts and have experience training people the basics... Not to hard if you put the time in...

RMI is the only guide service on the mountain, or at least was last time i checked. the have an impressive safety record. I can tell you that the views from up top that mountain are impressive. You can see a LOOONG WAY on a clear day. From steamboat prow you can see lights at night from Tacoma to Everett. You can also see the lights of Nachees and Yakima as well. At day you could see St Hellens Adams and ALL of the Olympics..

jackelope · « **Reply #11 on:** January 13, 2010, 05:13:13 PM »

rainier summit...my brother Jay is the tall goofy guy standing on the right. thats the standard RMI rental gear too...

WDFW-SUX · « **Reply #12 on:** January 13, 2010, 05:14:17 PM »

Is spooning optional on these trips?

squeeze2drop · « **Reply #13 on:** January 13, 2010, 05:17:01 PM »

Id love to climb it, but money is a lil too steep for me, good luck, cant wait to hear about it!

Special T · « **Reply #14 on:** January 13, 2010, 05:23:07 PM »

SUX spooning is NOT optional.... espesially if you go in the winter...

sisu · « **Reply #15 on:** January 13, 2010, 05:30:33 PM »

I'll add to Ray's comments.
If I had the time and this was me planning on this big event of Rainer I'd go do Baker first from the Glacier, WA side. Baker, in my opinion, is a more scenic climb. I've done St. Helens(when is was complete not blow to hell and gone), Baker, Rainer, attempted Hood but got weathered off. Only one I never tried was Adams and I actually do with I would of done that.

If you are a skilled skier and don't have too, hefty of a pack, ski from Camp Muir to the ranger station; instead of hours to get from Muir to there it'll be about 45 minutes!!!!

Spring skiing from Muir to the station is a good conditioner. When I was living on the west side and gas was not a fortune I'd drive there about once or twice a month just to do the ski down.

Good luck and BE safe. Remember you can't control the mountain but you can control your decisions once on the mountain.

klikboom · « **Reply #16 on:** January 13, 2010, 05:36:33 PM »

I did Baker last year, and I'm planning on doing Ranier this June. We'll be skinning up to Muir / Skiing down. If you're interested in climbing i'd suggest taking the Mountaineers climbing class. I took the BoeAlps class last year, and I'm prepared to do the Ranier climb with my friends, no guide needed. As mentioned you just need the decision making, snow travel, and crevasse rescue skills to do it.

Correct: spooning is not optional.

WDFW-SUX · « **Reply #17 on:** January 13, 2010, 05:38:45 PM »

I hear Lou is gentle...

denali · « **Reply #18 on:** January 13, 2010, 05:54:03 PM »

Me my son and family friend - good advice given, the only thing I would add is even though you are in good shape, how each persons body deals with altitude can very widely HAVE FUN !

MuleySniper · « **Reply #19 on:** January 13, 2010, 07:05:15 PM »

I appreciate all the input and ideas. Thanks guys.
MS

Special T · « **Reply #20 on:** January 13, 2010, 09:59:41 PM »

cool pic denali it looks like you had a great summit day. u do it on your own or with RMI? You've joined a special club...and seen an awesome view.

denali · « **Reply #21 on:** January 14, 2010, 05:37:50 PM »

Yes special T that was with RMI 1st time, a good experience 2nd accent on rainier, adams, hood, st helens on our own, have done some rock climbing as well - spring mt, Frenchman Coulee, smith rock, Leavenworth.

wish i had time to do more

SeaRun1 · « **Reply #22 on:** January 16, 2010, 02:09:39 PM »

Muley,

I have some crampons and and ice axe you are welcome to use. I know you live out on FI and I work in the harbor. I'm 6' so the ice axe might work for you. Good luck on the climb. Always wanted to do it but never got around to it. Let me know...

SeaRun1

MuleySniper · « **Reply #23 on:** January 17, 2010, 06:39:28 PM »

Perfect thanks! If things work out, I might take you up on the offer!
MS

MuleySniper · « **Reply #24 on:** May 17, 2010, 12:34:29 PM »

Well no summit stuff but managed a great day hike up to Muir on Sunday. It was a great hike, nice weather until about the last 1000' when the wind, snow and fog came roarin in! Waiting for pics from my buddy to post up later.
MS

sisu · « **Reply #25 on:** May 17, 2010, 01:05:22 PM »

Next time bring skis to go back, but remember the Muir snowfield lies to the west (by this I mean the gravitational slant that pulls you back down the hill) so when you ski down you need to force yourself east so you don't get in a jam. Many a climber has gotten in trouble or the Big Chop in white outs descending Muir and not remembering this little tidbit.

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Author Topic: Any experienced climbers? (Read 10754 times)

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