First Reload today - finished my setup

[Jekemi]

Just finished setting up my new bench and reloading setup. Great fun and I will head to the range in a couple of weeks to sight in the Weatherby .270. One question? I tried to use some once-fired Remington cases. I had a very hard time pushing out the old factory primers. It looks like they use lock-tight to set the primers permenantly. I visited a buddy that had an old 1950's vintage lyman press, super heavy-duty; and we couldn't push the primer out. I thought we might break the mounting off his bench if we pushed any harder. Is there any solvent you can soak the once-fired cases in to disolve the sealant they used?

[carpsniperg2]

you should be good to go now. i have never had much problem getting the primers out that had the sealer on them so i do not know a fix for that.

[Ratdog68]

I would imagine that you'd have to spend a little more time prepping the primer pockets before priming them for reloading... more so than having hassles with getting the old primers out.    

[Jekemi]

Ratdog68: I've got a bunch of once-fired .270 brass. They have never been reloaded before. The primers are factory stuck! They are in there solid. You can see that they uses some kind of lock-tight to virtually "weld" the primers in.

I can easily prime and de-prime my own new brass; that's no problem. The die works great, sizing the case and pushing the spent primer out. Then I simply press a new primer in. If I could get the old factory-stuck primers out I could use my little primer tool, prep the primer hole, and press in a new primer. But, I can't get those old primers out   Help!

[timberghost72]

One thing you can try is to heat up the area with a lighter or a micro torch.  At work if I have a fastener that has been locktighted I will heat it up and it comes right out.  I have no idea if this would work for you but it is an idea.  Of course I don't know what kind of effect it would have on the integrity of the  brass.  I would think it would be ok as long as you don't get it too hot. 

[Ratdog68]

Ratdog68: I've got a bunch of once-fired .270 brass. They have never been reloaded before. The primers are factory stuck! They are in there solid. You can see that they uses some kind of lock-tight to virtually "weld" the primers in.

I can easily prime and de-prime my own new brass; that's no problem. The die works great, sizing the case and pushing the spent primer out. Then I simply press a new primer in. If I could get the old factory-stuck primers out I could use my little primer tool, prep the primer hole, and press in a new primer. But, I can't get those old primers out   Help!

My experience has been that the "red" around the primer has been a "sealant".  I just did some .223 that had it.  The old primers came out just fine on mine.  The hassle was trying to get the new primers to seat.  I did dress the pockets beforehand too.  The PMC were the problem children for me... as you can see... the primers wouldn't settle in "purdy like" as they did in the Remington brass.  I don't know what to offer you with not being able to get the old ones out.   

[Jekemi]

timberghost72: good idea. I'll try it. I'm also going to soak the primer end of the cases in acetone just to see if it dissolves the lock-tight. I have no idea what kind of sealant they used to set those primers. I'll let you know what happens.

[Jekemi]

timberghost71: tried the torch heating idea. I looked specifically for the cases that had the blue sealant, heated it up using a BenzoMatic for various times but to no avail. Couldn't budge the primers. Oh well. I'll just use the new brass. I know I can prime those then easily remove the primers using my press.

[bonecrusher]

brass is cheap, if they dont just press out its not worth the trouble. throw um away

[C-Money]

Forgive me for asking, but are you sure you have your die deep enough for the pin to push out the primer? I have never ran into a primer that was that stuck. Good luck, I reload a lot of new brass too, as I am too lazy to case trim! Good luck!

[Ridgeratt]

Mil spec brass does have a primer crimp on them and it can be a bit tuff to push primers and I see you are using a "c" style press having never used one I'm not sure if you get enough leverage from them. My rcbs "O" presses push them. If you are using mil spec brass you will also have to remove the crimp ring in order to set new primers. or they will shave part of the cup and then could spell bad news for your new hobby.


http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=447022&utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=free&utm_campaign=9315

[Bscman]

I can get LARGE 50BMG primers that are sealed, and crimped out with minimal effort. My guess is you have a problem with your setup. Even red loctite shouldn't post that much of a problem.

You are lubing the case as you run it through your sizing/decapper die, right?

And as for the torch idea...
Be VERY careful applying heat to your brass...as you heat brass it will soften. If you soften the area around the primer you'll effectively destroy the brass. Take away the temper or "hardness" of that brass around the base and theres a good chance it'll blow up in your face when you load and fire it.

New brass for 270 is cheap...shouldn't run more than $26 for a bag...or go buy some cheapo loaded federal ammo at walmart for $14 a box and save the brass.

[dontgetcrabs]

Make sure that they are not Berdan primers! I don't believe Remington uses that style or any domestic ammo maker for that matter, BUT make sure to double check.  I have never had a problem de-capping boxer style, not even military crimped sealed primers.   

[elkaholic123]

I think the .270 Weatherby cases are a little more than 26.00 a bag even if they are Rem.  Have you tried removing after soaking them in acetone?

[woodswalker]

I'd be for checking the primer punch pin protrusion....WITHOUT a case, run the shellholder up to see that the pin pokes down at least the depth of the primer PAST the seat of the shellholder...if NOT you wont get them out...I ahve never had primers I couldnt get out...not even crimped ones...but with those make SURE you swage or ream the crimp grove out of the way before you seat a new primer.