Bedding a Rifle?

[Antlershed]

While at the range the other day, a guy suggested I bed my .300 because it doesn't shoot consistent right now. I'll admit, I'm clueless as to what this does. Is this something that I can do myself (I've done all my own trigger work so far)? Does it make that much of a difference?

[archery288]

A lot of the time bedding a rifle with fiberglas will make it stronger and somewhat more consistent if you make it a point to make the barrel free floating.  Although, some of the consistency may be the shooter himself (not saying your a bad shot) but in most cases that seems to be the case.  Also loads will have to do with consistency if you handload. And you can do it yourself, but it takes time and paitence and is sometimes easier to just have it done unless you really know what your doing. (not saying I am an expert at this stuff but my dad and I have done it a few times and whether it makes a difference, couldn't tell ya with a hunting rifle??)

[jackelope]

what kind of stock? wood or synthetic? sometimes glass bedding will not stick to a synthetic stock, but you can have it pillar bedded.
have you tried other ammo?
inconsistent as in your bullets are hitting all over the place or as in you are shooting 3" groups consistently instead of 1" groups?
i know my rifle shoots better than i do.

[Antlershed]

Synthetic stock. I have tried numerous types of ammo, I have lightened the trigger. It shoots wider than 3" groups...I would be happy with 3" groups out of this gun right now. I'm confident that it would hit the vitals of an Elk, but on a deer it may take out a shoulder. Barrel jump used to be really bad on it, but I have settled that down, so I'm not sure what else to do short of selling it. 

[jackelope]

does the barrel float free of the stock?

maybe you could put it in a vise like a leadsled  and make sure it is the rifle and not you...no offense, but maybe you are flinching. are you heating the barrel too much?

miles...my buddy hunts with a m77 in 7mm and its a tackdriver. bad experience?

[Ray]

It wouldn't happen to be a Ruger M77 MkII would it??

Heard that some rugers are good and some are bad..

Anyway... I'd make sure you're shooting with a barrel that is not too hot first. Taking time between shot groups to feel the barrel and see if it is too warm. If you're still experiencing trouble try iron sights to rule out a scope. If you don't have them then triple check the scope mounting and that nothing is moving around.

I have a rifle that jumps around the warmer the barrel gets. When it get's warm then I put it down and shoot my other guns until it cools off.

[bobcat]

Almost all non-custom rifles could benefit by a bedding job. If you're getting 3 inch and bigger groups at 100 yards, there's definitely something wrong. If it's not you, not the ammo, and not the scope, then I would also say bedding would be the first thing to try. I've got a Weatherby Vanguard that I want to get bedded as soon as I have some extra money. I don't want to mess with it myself, although I know doing a bedding job isn't all that complicated, but I'm just going to pay a gunsmith to do it and get it done right the first time. This rifle will put two shots almost touching, then two more shots almost touching about 1 1/2 inches away from the first two. This inconsistency is what leads me to believe it's a bedding problem. My Browning A bolt shoots great and has never needed anything, and I've never heard of an A bolt requiring a bedding job in order to get it to shoot. Some rifles do come from the factory correctly bedded, but most do not.

[Slenk]

Almost all rifles will improve with a bedding job.
And it is not rocket sience to do.
And I see no need to pay for another to do it for you.
Just make sure you have you release agent on all area you do not want bedding to stick. Use plumber's putty or some other clay type in areas that you need filled . Anyone that has a little ability can do this.
Here is a good artical on it.
http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html
The only difference is that Savage rifles HAVE to have the tang area free floated.
Slenk

[Antlershed]

It is a Remington 700 BDL in stainless. My Ruger in .270 shoots pretty darn good. I am also wondering if it is a scope issue, or if it is just me (not ruling it out). The scope is a simmons, and I'm wondering if they are built well enough to handle that kind of shock from a .300. It is possible I am pulling it, but I shoot my other rifles pretty well. I did notice when I switched from shooting my .300 to my .223 I was anticipating the recoil, but of course it wasnt there since I had switched guns. What can help this? Shoot it more often? I always try and make sure the barrel isn't getting too hot. All my shots stay within the 6-8" circle in the middle of the target. When I shoot, I make sure I am exhaling and gently squeeze the trigger.

[high country]

I would try a "known good" scope. I have a rifle that shoots extremely good groups, I put a new scope on it and it became a pos.....twas the scope (swarovski  )

[Ray]

If the BDL has iron sights then shoot a group with those. I thought the BDL model had the iron sights...

I would imagine you should be able to get 2-3 inch groups from that rifle and caliber at 100 yards. Otherwise I would free float the barrel or at least let a gunsmith look at it..

It sounds to me like you may be part of the problem from a shooter's standpoint if you are flinching like that. One practice I used to use and break that habit was to have someone else load (or not load) the rifle or pistol behind me and hand it to me. I would then shoot normally. If I continued to anticipate the recoil when the gun was unloaded it told me to continue working on it.

[ICEMAN]

Antlershed, eliminate the chance you are yanking the trigger first. Have someone else load your gun while you are not looking, have them mix it up with a live round, then maybe a spent shell, then live, whatever..... your will know you are yanking the trigger on the already fired shell. very obvious. Also, have someone else shoot the gun to see if the same issue happens with them...

[ZEN]

Soak it up man.  This is range/shooting protocol 101.  Lots of good advice around here. 

To stray from redundancy I'll spin it another way.  Clearly you have at least 2 rifles.  If you've got a 22 what I recommend becomes even more valuable...by being inexpensive.  Thereby more time can be spent shooting, (dry firing has its place but shooting gives you visual proof of progress). 

Back to the point.  I recommend you develope, ( or redevelope),  a pattern.  That pattern should begin from the point you lay your hands on the gun until after the shot is fired, ie, find your shot in the scope after it's fired, finger off of trigger maybe re-engage your safety.  Simulate the decision to shoot again - or not.  Range rules probably don't allow you to take your rifle from your shoulder to a rest and then to shoot so start from the rifle lying there at rest. 

Simplify the steps it takes to set up a shot.  Move slowly for a while.  Pick up the gun and train your hands into the same grip every time.  Do that at home with out even shooting.  Line up your scope to your eye at the same point in the sequence every time.  You should be taking deep but quiet blood-oxygenating breaths as you set up and be aware of any controls that are required to get off a shot. 

Be aware of any steps that can overlap.  Try to make a sleek and efficient sequence of machanical control and breathing that isn't dramatic in any ways that require adjustments/animal spooking movements.  The point is that you'll be confident.  Oxygenated.  Focused, phisically and visually.  Limited stress for the good old fashioned trigger squuueeeeeze.  The only variable should be the "felt" recoil.  The rest, give or take makes and models, is the same...every time. 

Get it to where your sequence will allow you to take an animal that gives you 5-10 seconds to shoot before they disappear on you forever.  If you look through the scope longer than 10-15 seconds and the reticle doesn't land where you want it run the whole thing again until you can get a GOOD SHOT off in less time.  Oxygen and a good base is essential.  If there's lots of O2 in your blood holding for a good shot is easier.  There are no sand bags in the field.  Be adaptable but consistant.  Practice for variables.  If the mechanics are the same the rest is only a subtle variable

The 300 isn't too much gun but it hits and can be expensive to shoot.  Run it cheap on the 22 as a part of th erange visit when ever you go.  Then shoo the big guns..  Just spend lots of time at the range where you get used to all of the big bangs.  You already do I think.  Sit near the biggest gun for a while.  Shoot lots of 300's until you own it.  (Have you tested that 300 to see what ammo it likes?  Loads can be such an issue.  I'm lucky to have one rifle that likes the cheaper stuff just fine bu tlots don't).

[Antlershed]

Wow, thanks for all the advice. I have tried a few different arounds in it. Remington Express Core-Lokt (it seems to like it but I'm worried about bullet performance), Federal Vital Shok Nosler Accubond, and the Federal Vital Shok Barnes Triple Shock X-Bullet. I'm not sure what else to try in it. I have killed deer with the Rem Express ammo in both my .300 and my .270, but I would like to step up to a better bullet.

[high country]

have you messed with the action screws, it is possible to bind the action if you torque them incorrectly. also the scope rings/bases should have some attenition.


when was the last time you cleaned the rifle.......well.

[Antlershed]

have you messed with the action screws, it is possible to bind the action if you torque them incorrectly. also the scope rings/bases should have some attenition.


when was the last time you cleaned the rifle.......well.

I had to take the action out of the stock in order to adjust the trigger, maybe I messed them up then, but it didn't shoot well before that. I've cleaned it well numerous times. This has been an ongoing issue for quite some time.

[Coasthunterjay]

So if you have a regular wooden stock can you float your barrel yourself and with out using a resin bedding? Is it as easy as sanding the Inside of the stock(forward end) untill you could put a dollar bill between the stock and the barrel? Or is it harder than that?

[jackelope]

Is it as easy as sanding the Inside of the stock(forward end) untill you could put a dollar bill between the stock and the barrel?

pert near.

[Antlershed]

Bringing this back up cause I am still messing with the rifle. Is it correct that you want to torque down the front action screw first and then tighten the rear one?

[high country]

yes. snug up the front screw first, then the rear. the rear should not be too super tight.

[DHB]

You should tighten them alternately until just snug and then tighten the front real snug and the back almost. On rifles with a middle screw it should just be in there, not tight!!
In other words don't sock down the front and the rear still be way loose.

[MountainWalk]

you using weaver mounts with the cross bolt ,, or a good solid dovetail mount?...my dang m70 270 sm  from wal mart came with weaver styles.. it shot good ,, for while,,,, i was getting pissed,, then i looked at all my other rifles and noticed i put good mounts on all of them..... i took the weaver base,, and seen where the alum.. was peening and shearing away...put the luepold bases on.. not a problem since.

[Antlershed]

Leupold rings and bases. The rear is the "clamp" style.