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Author Topic: Spine  (Read 9064 times)

Offline boneaddict

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Spine
« on: July 17, 2010, 09:50:08 AM »
I hate this stuff....   I feel that I am right on the verge of being too much spine for one arrow and not enough for the other.  I am shooting GTs straditional carbon 5575 and ?7595s?.    I am shooting a longbow, so there isn't much tuning to do to the bow.  Its at 70 pounds at 32 inches I think is what Ernie had it at.  My arrows are coming off and then nose diving to the right bare shafted.  Even my practice arrows seem to be slamming the paper a little sideways, leaving a rip to the left.(this is with my 5575s)  Any pointers.  This will be the first year I will hunt with this bow.    

Offline Hunterman

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Re: Spine
« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2010, 09:59:13 AM »
Sounds like your arrows are a bit long for that bow..

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Offline Button Nubbs

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Re: Spine
« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2010, 10:01:41 AM »
I don't know much about trad equipment but when I bare shaft tuned my compound I was hitting low right also, I moved my rest up and left and it took care of it.maybe you can move your rest but like I said I know nothing about trad bows
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Offline boneaddict

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Re: Spine
« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2010, 10:12:59 AM »
Paper tuning, its tail high and to the left.   My concern with it is that I think alot of it could be the fletchings coming off the riser as I am sure there is contact, but with trad equipment, you don't shoot off of a rest so to speak.  I shoot max length arrows as that is my draw length.  If I reemmber papertuning, I think I should lower my knock a bit.  Is that correct?  I know it won't do much good if my spine is off.  I shoot the lesser spine on my other trad bow which has even more draw weight than this one. :dunno:

Offline boneaddict

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Re: Spine
« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2010, 10:31:43 AM »
Here is my chart.  I think the first thing I need to do is try some stiffer arrows I guess, maybe the 7595s and see if they are acting better than my 5575s.   In my one bow, the lesser spined ones shot way better than the stiffer arrows, so I hesitated going to them for this bow.

My bow is 70 pounds at 28 inch draw so at 32 its probably more......  I guess I'd be in the trad category with 32 inch at 70+

Offline boneaddict

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Re: Spine
« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2010, 10:32:24 AM »
6 is a 7595

Offline STIKNSTRINGBOW

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Re: Spine
« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2010, 10:56:24 AM »
You raise or lower your nock point to cure porpoise action, as in arow hits up or down.
if the nock point on your string is too high, the shaft will fly and land nock high.
If you start with the nock low, the shaft flies nock low and hits nock low. If the nock point is too low, the shaft will bounce off the shelf of rest and give the impression that the nock is high. Therefore, always start with the nock too high.
For a right-handed shooter, an arrow to the right denotes a staff that is spined too weak. In the event that the full length shaft is to the left of center for a right handed shooter (opposite for a lefty), denotes a shaft that is spined too stiff,
you want to "bare-shaft week, After fletching, shoot your finished arrow into the target’s center at a distance of 20 yds. You should discover that your slightly weak bare shaft is no longer weak and is hitting the center of the target. This validates the reason to tune for a weak bare shaft. The application of cresting paint/wraps and fletching stiffens the spine of the shaft, thus moving it to the left for a right handed shooter. Had the bare shaft been tuned to hit center, the completed arrow would have been slightly stiff and incapable of allowing the shooter to obtain the best accuracy.  :twocents:

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Offline STIKNSTRINGBOW

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Re: Spine
« Reply #7 on: July 17, 2010, 10:58:24 AM »
But then I shoot wood   :dunno:
The mountains are calling and I must go."
- John Muir
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Offline NWWABOWHNTR

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Re: Spine
« Reply #8 on: July 17, 2010, 11:00:33 AM »
Stu's dynamic spine calculator says the 55-75's are too weak.  WHat grain tip are you using?
"Don't argue with an idiot. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience."

Offline NWWABOWHNTR

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Re: Spine
« Reply #9 on: July 17, 2010, 11:02:59 AM »
the bow is 70@28?  WIth you drawing it out to 32 that puts the draw weight between 82 and 86 #'s.....
"Don't argue with an idiot. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience."

Offline STIKNSTRINGBOW

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Re: Spine
« Reply #10 on: July 17, 2010, 11:06:46 AM »
the bow is 70@28?  WIth you drawing it out to 32 that puts the draw weight between 82 and 86 #'s.....
:yeah:
The mountains are calling and I must go."
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Offline STIKNSTRINGBOW

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Re: Spine
« Reply #11 on: July 17, 2010, 11:09:19 AM »
I just re-read origional post 70# @ 32"  :dunno:
The mountains are calling and I must go."
- John Muir
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Offline rasbo

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Re: Spine
« Reply #12 on: July 17, 2010, 11:17:44 AM »
how high above level is your nock???start with 1/2 inch high...but you might try putting a piece of leather on the plate or try a few toothpicks to see if that changes your left to right...if it does I think you need a stronger spine

Offline boneaddict

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Re: Spine
« Reply #13 on: July 17, 2010, 12:33:40 PM »
I was thinking it was at 32 Sticknstring but he deonoted on it at 28 I believe.  Its lighter than my other bow.

Offline STIKNSTRINGBOW

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Re: Spine
« Reply #14 on: July 17, 2010, 12:59:05 PM »
You gain somewhere in the neighborhood of 3 # per inch of draw after 28, so if it is 70 @ 28" you are pulling closer to 80+...
But in my experience a bare shaft that is tail high and to the left, would be nock high and too stiff.....
I would get a handfull of mixed arrows, shoot them all, and see what spine is on the ones that hit the target best (center of group)
Also, what weight head/tip is on these arrows ?
is it the same weight you plan on hunting with ?
The mountains are calling and I must go."
- John Muir
"I go to nature to be soothed and healed, and to have my senses put in order."
- John Burroughs
NASP Certified Basic Archery Instructor
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