dampener

[calib]

if you where having problems paper tuning and found out your dampener was the problem  would you remove it and keep it off if that made your tuning rite?

[Old Dog]

What do you mean by "dampener"?  More info needed.

[carpsniperg2]

you have to make the bow shoot right first off. then after it is shooting right i would find a way to fix any vibration or noise the bow was making. but it depends on the dampener you are talking about as well. is it a string stop? in string leeches? in the bow? stabilizer?

[calib]

the string stopper   the rod that has a rubber boot on the end  thats what i mean by dampener

what are the effects of this being off

[carpsniperg2]

maybe a little more noise and vibration. sometimes having them off can increase arrow speeds a bit as well.

[halflife65]

I have one on my bow now, but I shot my previous bow without one.  It probably makes a little difference, but not enough to worry about if you're bow shoots better without it.  I'd have no problem taking it off if the bow shot better without it.  Whatever it takes to get the bow shooting as well as it possibly can.

I saw something in another post where someone was talking about his string stop being off center a little (the string wasn't hitting right in the middle) and he was getting some weird twang.  He centered it properly and got the length correct and the problem was solved.  Have you checked where the string is hitting it and if it is set at the right length?

[carpsniperg2]

and also you might play with it a little push it in a bit more or move it closer to the string the standard is about a busniess card gap between the string and the stop. i have seen some weird things from people that push them in to far. maybe that is what is happening to your setup. might check it out.

[calib]

we did play around with depth and seating.   the rod that the rubber boot is on is about 3/16" too long so we would have had to of cut it. we tried a different stoper and set it to rite depth and still tore paper so when ever we shot it with out the stopper at all it shot good holes so the stopper is off now

[carpsniperg2]

i think it for the best. what i use to do before i got a string stop, is get a little stabilizer like the doinker 1" and screw it into the back of the bow. i have used this to even out my bow and also helps with vibration if you are picking up some you might try it. i think they are like 30.00

[konrad]

My Truth had no string stopper from the factory.
I shot it without for a full year before experimenting with stoppers. I found I got better accuracy at extended range, a quieter shot and zero wrist slap even when I had poor grip position.

I was also able to remove my string leeches.

I fabricated my device from parts purchased elsewhere including the Norway Industries rubber stopper.

Paper tuning is all well and fine. The proof of the pudding is in the eating. How does it shoot your broadheads?

[adam.WI]

we did play around with depth and seating.   the rod that the rubber boot is on is about 3/16" too long so we would have had to of cut it. we tried a different stoper and set it to rite depth and still tore paper so when ever we shot it with out the stopper at all it shot good holes so the stopper is off now

Did you move your rest while it was on?

[calib]

yeah we moved the rest. it just seemed like it liked it more with the stopper off.
shooting it last night it shot like poop, so i put the stopper back on and was shooting better than without. i dont understand i shot real good last summer this whole summer hasnt been as easy to shoot so good
i almost want a new bow sooner than later

[konrad]

You know, a whole year away from archery allows us to forget some of the basics like grip position on the base of the thumb and a relaxed (read that NO hold on the handle) grip on the riser handle and allowing the bow to recoil naturally.

Many people tend to grab the bow on the shot and that alone can cause major grief as the timing and tension of the grip can never be exactly duplicated..
It is too bad the shop you are dealing with does not have a Hooter Shooter to eliminate the human factor.

Another thing to try (cheaper) is to have another archer shoot your rig and see if he or she produces the same tears.

This whole thing assumes:
Axle to axle length is correct
Brace height is correct
Tiller is correct
Arrow spine is correct
Nock point is at 90 degrees or a tad higher
Center shot is close (look down from the top limb with an arrow nocked and see if the shaft is lined up right to left compared to the back of the bow…the face of the limbs toward the target)

[calib]

yeah i know it has been a year since last season but i have been shooting all summer   i shoot with an open hand   i had someone else shoot it at the shop paper tuning spine is good axis 400's on a 60lb 27" draw. i paper tuned tuday with everything on the bow and broadheads and it shoots better now, but i think after this season it is on to a different bow