Skinning a Bear and Field Care Info for Mounts & Rugs.

[Michelle_Nelson]

Bear Rug Incision

The First diagram below will show you where to make your incisions when skinning out your bear for a Rug.  Start your incision at the anus and run it up to the top of the chest, keeping it centered.  Make a second incision from the back of the pad on the front foot across the chest to the back of the pad on the other front foot.  Your third incision should be made from the back of the pad on the rear leg through the anus to the back of the pad on the other rear foot.

Life - Size and Rug Skinning Method

The Ventral or Case Incision should be used if you are undecided on what kind of a mount you want.  Start your incision at the back of the pad on the rear leg.  Continue the incision to the back of the pad on the opposite foot.  Cut about 2 inches below the anus, make sure NOT to cut through the anus.

Life - Size Skinning Method

The Dorsal Incision should only be used if you plan on having a Life-Size Mount done.  Start at the base of the tail and run your incision up the bears back and end at the base of the skull, keeping your incision centered.

1/2 or 3/4 Mount Skinning Method

If you would like to have a 1/2 or 3/4 Mount done I would recommend skinning your Bear out using the Ventral Incision.  See Diagram #2 above.

Shoulder Mount Skinning Method

If you plan to have a shoulder mount done with your bear than go ahead and remove the front paws off your bear, at the wrist.  Than make an incision approximately 6" behind the front shoulder around the circumference of the animal.  The Diagram below will give you an idea where to make your incisions.  Remember to always leave plenty of skin!  Your taxidermist can always remove it later.  Better to have to much than not enough.  We can't add what isn't their to begin with!




Skinning. . . . . . .

Once you have made your incisions and begin the skinning process you will have to sever the paws off the carcass at the wrist and ankle joint leaving them in the hide.  This will help free up the skin.  When you get to the head go ahead and sever the head at the base of the skull leaving it in the hide as well.  You don't have to remove the skull or paws out of the skin if you are going to get the hide right to the freezer or to your taxidermist.  Be careful when you get around the genital area.  If you remove them or cut through them you will lack this detail on a Life Size mount.  If you decide to have a rug done these can be removed later.

Field Care. . . . . . .

It is important, once the Bear is down, get it skinned out.  Bear will hold their body heat for a long time especially if it's large and carrying a lot of fat.  Once the bear is skinned out, get it to a freezer or to a taxidermist as soon as possible.  You will want to keep the hide as cool and dry as possible.  Don't put the hide in a plastic bag.  Place it in a burlap bag, it will allow air to circulate and keep flies and other insects off your trophy.  It will also allow heat and fluids to escape.

  Heat and moisture are a hides worst enemy.  They promote bacteria growth that will cause the hair to slip (hair falling out), sometimes in large patches.  Once this has started it doesn't stop until all the hair has fallen out of the infected area.  If it is hot outside you will need to work as quickly as you can.  If it is below 40 degrees you will have a little more time to work.

DO NOT. . .

*  Leave the cape / Skin in a walk in cooler for longer than 48 hours.

*  Get the cape / skin wet. 

*  Lay the Skin in the sun, keep it in the shade.

*  Drag the animal behind a 4-wheeler when bringing it out of the woods.  This can damage the hair and cause bald spots.

*  Ride the animal / hide around in the back of your truck all day showing it off to friends and family.  Take pictures and get the animal in the freezer or to the taxidermist



Freezing. . . . . . .

If you decide to freeze the hide don't roll the hide......FOLD IT!  It will help the hide thaw out more evenly and quicker.  Also don't put the skull in the middle of the hide when folding.  It can take up to 3 days for a bear skull to freeze all the way buried in the hide.  When you put the hide in the freezer place it on a plastic bag NOT in it, to prevent it from sticking to the freezer.  After the animal is frozen than place it inside a couple plastic bags. 


Salting the Hide. . . . . . .

For extended trips in the field and out of state, especially during warm weather it may be necessary to salt a hide in order to preserve it for mounting or tanning. I do not normally suggest this unless you are proficient in properly skinning the cape from the skull, splitting the lips, eyes, nose, and ears, and removing the flesh and fat.

I buy my salt at the local feed store in 50# bags.  It is called Feed, Feeder,or Stock Salt.  This is a fine grain salt like table salt.  Make sure it is Non-Iodized.  DO NOT use rock salt.

Lay the skin out flat and apply the salt liberally. On an average bear hide I will use a whole 50 pound bag of salt. There is no such thing as too much salt. Let the salt stand on the skin for 24 hours, then shake it off and salt it again. You shouldn't have to use as much salt the second time, but be sure that the entire skin is covered. Let it stand for another day and then shake the skin off and let it air dry. Large hides should be rolled before they are completely dry otherwise they are difficult to transport.

Consult with your taxidermist on how to complete these tasks and then you can properly salt a skin.

[Skyvalhunter]

Good info Michelle thanks for reposting

[seth30]

I am goint to print this, lamanate it and place it in my hunting backpack.  Thank you for this

[Michelle_Nelson]

Good info Michelle thanks for reposting

If you go into the "Taxidermy Forum" there is a Sticky Thread called "Field Care and Skinning instructions".  If you click on that it will bring up a list of field care guides.

•Caping and Field Care for a Shoulder Mount
•Skinning a Bear and Field Care Info for Mounts & Rugs
•Bird Field Care for Mounting & Taxidermy Required Info
•Fish Field Care Information (Skin Mounts & Reproductions)
•Taxidermist Required Information

[blacktailer]

Best sketches I have Seen Michelle.  A great reminder for all. 

[jaredpost]

You say don't get it wet. What would you recommend if you shoot a bear and it either runs through some water or you have to drag it through some a creek or river to get it out? Any proper way to dry it so nothing gets damaged?

[Michelle_Nelson]

Jared you can only do so much.  Stuff happens.  It rains, animals die in creeks, etc.  Take a couple try towels with you to put in your truck.  Just dry it off best you can.

[Michelle_Nelson]

Tip:  To avoid repair charges on a Bear Rug.

Avoid starting your incisions on the side of the foot.  Each incision should start at the "back" of the foot. 

[huntnnw]

I have sank 3 bears in a run off creek to keep them from the heat and sun, all three have been rugged.

[Michelle_Nelson]

 

[DoubleJ]

For a trade of a hide for shop credit, which is the easiest method that would be acceptable to a taxidermist?

[Michelle_Nelson]

Ventral or Rug Incision.

[NW-GSP]

thanks for the info, I hope to be bringing you a bear, If I can ever find one .

[saylean]

This should be sticky'ed.

[jrebel]

I know this can vary, but what is the average cost now days for the different taxidermy of a bear.  Shoulder mount ?  Rug?  etc.  This could help people on the sight decide what skinning method they will use is the field.

Thanks

Johnny