Arrows, What do you use

[adam.WI]

I've been shooting the same carbon express 300 for about 8  years now. Some new ones mixed in here and there. I don't know for a fact but I'm assuming carbons are like aluminum arrows where you can shoot them out where they are no longer to there original specs. In the past few weeks my groups have opened up @ 40yards, I'm still holding tight groups at 20 but if I move out it is crazy.  I haven't changed anything and have never had this problem before so I figured I can give it a try. Those arrows need to be replaced anyways.
So any how I was curious what everyone else uses.

[Matt]

There has been a lot of debate over the past few years about shooting the spine out of your arrows.  I can see it.  The arrow flexes a lot at the shot as well as everytime it hits the target.  The can start to weaken.  No matter what you believe the fact is that if the arrow doesn't group then it doesn't play.  New or old it has to hit where you are aiming.

[Todd_ID]

Maybe measure your axle to axle length.  String stretch can cause your grouping problems, too, and that'd show up by either a longer than normal draw length or longer axle to axle measurements.  1/8" makes a difference in axle to axle.  But, yes, 8 years is a lot of shots for an arrow to recover from.  Try your newer arrows vs. your older arrows, and that'll show you whether or not it's shot out arrows causing your problem.

[adam.WI]

Maybe measure your axle to axle length.  String stretch can cause your grouping problems, too, and that'd show up by either a longer than normal draw length or longer axle to axle measurements.  1/8" makes a difference in axle to axle.  But, yes, 8 years is a lot of shots for an arrow to recover from.  Try your newer arrows vs. your older arrows, and that'll show you whether or not it's shot out arrows causing your problem.

New and old are all mixed in so I don't know which are old and which are new.  As far as measurements the bow is to spec, that is the first thing I check when a setup isn't doing what I want it to, I was just curious what other guys are using for arrows.

[Lowedog]

CX Maxima 250's for my Destroyer 340 @ 60lbs.  I have nothing but good to say about the CX Maxima arrows.

[Drifterat]

Beman MFX Team Real Tree 400 is what arrow I shoot now.

Beman stopped making these and I only have 9 left to get me through hunting season.

Next year I'll be shooting Easton ST Axis 400 in black.

[D-Rock425]

Gold tip 5575 for me.  I think its the best hunting arrow for the money

[croix]

Easton FMJ 400

I am thinking about switching to the 340, but not until after this season.

[Button Nubbs]

Easton st epic 34O camo for me. Fairly cheap, fly as good as my old cx maxima hunters and are way more durable. I won't be switching any time soon.

[halflife65]

Easton Axis nFused 340s. 

If you end up with the Easton arrows, get the black ones if you plan on shooting them into 3d targets.  I had a heck of a time getting the painted ones (camo) out.  I don't know why they are camo, anyway.  My fletching isn't...

[SCRUBS]

340 Beman C2, thinking about trying either GT XT ,or Easton Axis next year, both in 340 spine.

[adam.WI]

i'm thinking i will try the a/c/c. i used to shoot them for field so i figure i will give them a try. any body tried the prohunters

[bow4elk]

I should Easton aluminum, Gold Tip carbons, and cedar (traditional).

[let.it.fly]

carbon express mayhems, nice arrows for sure

[SCRUBS]

I should Easton aluminum, Gold Tip carbons, and cedar (traditional).

Very cool, don`t see that very often, even with the traditional guys i have known.

[alanger]

Cabelas carbon hunter 55-70

[SCRUBS]

Cabelas carbon hunter 55-70

Don`t know if you already know, but Cabelas is having a sale on those right now.

[pips4bucks]

Currently Carbon Express Maxima Hunter 350s w/ weight forward.  First year using these arrows.  They shoot like heat seeking missles. 

Have used Gold Tip XT hunters and XT pro hunters 7595s for the past 6 years with good results.

[coachcw]

fmj 300, carbon express 350 , and easton 2419

[starr]

Gold tip 5575 for me.  I think its the best hunting arrow for the money

again im new to the archery thing but these are what i got set up with at wholesale sports and within my first year i robin hooded one. i attribute my misses to learning how not the arrows. the arrows are on point.

[SpokaneSlayer]

I use Easton ST Epic 500's.  They shoot well and won't break the bank.

[BigD]

Gold tip XT hunter for me.

[yajsab]

Easton FMJ 340 on my elk rig.  Did a great job of stopping the critter.

[Snapshot]

Fir, spruce or cedar.

[Ray]

Cedar, Carbon Express Heritage, Tonkin Cane Bamboo, or Hexshafts. I have to say that the Hexshafts are growing on me.

[DoubleJ]

Carbon Express Wolverine Hunter 6070.  Called CE and was told they are exactly the same as the Carbon Express Piledriver hunter 350, just sold under the Wolverine name for Wal Mart.  $5 an arrow during the season and $2 an arrow when they go on clearance at the end of the season.

[400out]

165 Gr nosler accubonds  come on guys rifle hunting is the only way 

[bowhunterforever]

Beman ics hunters 340

[D-Rock425]

Gold tip 5575

[carpsniperg2]

goldtip xt 5575's are my stand by.

[Ihuntelk2]

Easton Axis, or the full metal jackets...

[Sneaky]

Beman ICS hunter 340's

[blackveltbowhunter]

Easton FMJ 340s

[Charlie]

Easton Axis nFused 340s.

+1

[spookgus]

Goldtip 7595

[carpsniperg2]

goldtip xt 5575's are my stand by.

Carpsniper, do you have problems with the components?  I quit using my goldtips because no hotmelt would hold my inserts (I don't like epoxies), and nocks didn't want to stay on... have you had the same problems?   And if so, have you found a solution?

no not at all. i do not use hotmelt on carbon arrows just my wood and alum arrows. i just  use goat tuff glues on all my carbons. from my trad bows to my compounds that cook them out, about as fast as any bow out there. i have never had a problem with them staying in.

[konrad]

Assuming your shooting technique has not degraded and after verifying your bow’s specs have not changed (i.e. axle-to-axle, brace height, draw weight and length) number all of your shafts with a Sharpie pen. Then, shoot your groups and make note of where the various numbers strike. An enlarged group may actually be two groups over-lapping.

Another check would be to weigh each of those completed arrows. Different weights have different flight times. Even though all of your arrows may be of the same brand, model and spine, manufacturing techniques and specifications may have changed over the years resulting in different shaft weights.

Information I received from Easton Technical says they have yet to receive a set of arrows that has had the spine "shot out of them"; however, carbon composite shafts should be checked very regularly for damage by twisting and flex/rolling. This is particularly true after impacting with hard objects.

I personally use alloy shafts (Easton X-7 and Platinum Plus XX75's). I have always figured if the difference between success and failure was a camo shaft, I was doing something else horribly wrong.

Good luck and be sure to report back with what you’ve found.
K