Author Topic: Glass Bedding (Read 11826 times)

dscubame · « **on:** January 30, 2011, 08:56:01 PM »

Who has glass bedded their rifle? Any suggestions or tips? I understand it is rather simplistic and one should do it themselves rather than pay a gunsmith the $200.

Whitelightning · « **Reply #1 on:** January 30, 2011, 09:10:36 PM »

Bedding is really very easy. I use acraglas gel there are many other brands also. I like acraglas gel because it is not RUNNY so I don't have to worry about ruining my stock. The kit comes with everything you need including die so you can make the Epoxy gel match your stock. The included instructions are easy to follow (make sure you follow them). I have bedded well over a dozen rifles with this product with impressive results.
This is the forward mount I did not color the acraglas on this one.

The rear was a little tricky had to make a wall for the forward portion of the inlet, this is why I really like the gel it makes things like this easy.

Jamieb · « **Reply #2 on:** January 30, 2011, 10:50:35 PM »

I don't mess with doing the tang or bottom metal anymore, just 1 1/2" in front of the recoil lug back to the mag well.
One layer of electrical tape on the sides and bottom of lug two on the front.
Use plenty of release agent. I use putty as a dam and everything else is in the acraglass kit.

I bed and lighten the trigger on every new rifle before I mount a scope.

dscubame · « **Reply #3 on:** January 31, 2011, 08:43:11 AM »

Thanks for the information and taking the time to post the pictures. This sounds like a great summer project for my rem 30-06. Thanks.

jaymark6655 · « **Reply #4 on:** January 31, 2011, 08:50:22 AM »

If it is one of those plastic rem stock it wont stick.

JackOfAllTrades · « **Reply #5 on:** January 31, 2011, 09:00:25 AM »

I've never come across anyting that AcraGlass won't stick to.. If you think it won't, then just rough up the surface or drill some shallow holes to create an interferance fit.

I've posted it before, so you could search for previous posts for glass and pillar bedding.

http://www.scorehi.com/pillar%20installation.htm

-Seve

Jason · « **Reply #6 on:** January 31, 2011, 09:18:24 AM »

I just did my Rem 788, I used a premium Devcon Epoxy and white lithium grease for the release agent.
This was my first time bedding an action, at first I was really nervous, but it was really easy.

high country · « **Reply #7 on:** January 31, 2011, 10:08:53 AM »

I have used bondo, jb weld, acra glass, marine tex....all with good results. I use Johnson paste wax for release. Pull the trigger and clay up ever depression. Pull it while green and trim with an exacto knife to get nice tight lines. Metal body filler bondo is good for a hurry job, as it can be ready to shoot in a couple hours, jb and marine tex are tougher, but I have never broken metal filler.

huntandjeep · « **Reply #8 on:** January 31, 2011, 08:03:36 PM »

Can you glass bed synthetic stocks and hogue stocks or just wood

Whitelightning · « **Reply #9 on:** January 31, 2011, 08:16:02 PM »

Quote from: huntandjeep on January 31, 2011, 08:03:36 PM

Can you glass bed synthetic stocks and hogue stocks or just wood

I have bedded several Bell&Carlson composite stocks, just clean it and ruff it up with some 80gr paper.

JackOfAllTrades · « **Reply #10 on:** January 31, 2011, 08:16:55 PM »

You can certainly glass and pillar bed composite stocks just as well as wood.

-Steve

high country · « **Reply #11 on:** January 31, 2011, 08:45:25 PM »

One thing to watch is full length bedding

on super flexi stocks like the winchester cheapo, the fore end flex will bust a skim coat. The best luck I have had is to make positive locking voids in the action area and bed just the action. Float the forend and be for killing with it.

Craig · « **Reply #12 on:** January 31, 2011, 09:30:25 PM »

What does glass bedding actually do? If your barrel is free floating do you need to glass bedding to?

Jamieb · « **Reply #13 on:** January 31, 2011, 10:01:09 PM »

Bedding under the action is so theres good even contact and gets rid of any stressing of the action. The other thing is most action to stock fits are pretty sloppy, especially the recoil lug to lug recess, filling the voids stop's the barreled action from moving in the stock under recoil, improving consistency (accuracy)

huntandjeep · « **Reply #14 on:** February 01, 2011, 07:21:30 PM »

Whats the difference between glass bedding and full length pillar bedded. The Hogue on my 7mm is full length pillar bedded . Which ones better. Are Weatherby synthetics pillar bedded?

Jamieb · « **Reply #15 on:** February 01, 2011, 08:35:50 PM »

http://www.brownprecision.com/StockBedding.htm

Jamieb · « **Reply #16 on:** February 01, 2011, 08:41:41 PM »

This link will give you a pretty good idea of what pillars are.
http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/pillar.html

Schwag173 · « **Reply #17 on:** February 02, 2011, 12:21:57 AM »

Whitelightning and Jackofalltrades is right on. I'll also add this: Johnson wax is cheap and works just as well as the release agent provided in the Acraglas kits. I make it a practice of smearing a light coat of wax on EVERYTHING I don't want the acraglas to stick to (within 6 inches of the area I'm putting the acraglas). You can clean the wax off later and it's a proactive step that helps defeat Murphy's Law.

huntandjeep · « **Reply #18 on:** February 02, 2011, 07:48:18 PM »

thanks jaimeb

JackOfAllTrades · « **Reply #19 on:** February 03, 2011, 10:22:23 AM »

Quote from: huntandjeep on February 01, 2011, 07:21:30 PM

Whats the difference between glass bedding and full length pillar bedded. The Hogue on my 7mm is full length pillar bedded .

I think you've got a play on words for two different processes.

If you'll look at the link in my previous post, (photo below), The pillars are actually sleaves for the action/floorplate mounting screws that go through the stock.

Full length glass bedding is something most shooters don't do anymore. There was a belief long ago that if you glass bedded the action and the stock for the full length of the stock, any portion of the barrel out that far, that a more rigid mating of action/barrel/stock would lead to better acuracy. It's been proven in most cases that a free floated barrel, with only the action and a small portion of the area just forward of the chamber/aft end of the barrel, will get more consistent accuracy allowing the barrel to flex as it gets warmer without any pressure from the stock that also flexes with temperature. Especially wood stocks when they get cold. You don't want any pressure on the barrel 'in most scenarios'.

To combine Pillar bedding with glass bedding of the action and free-floating the barrel for the length of the stock fore-end has become the standard for anyone trying to get the most uniform and consistent fit that leads to repeatable accuracy. The objective is to create a very tight fit of the action within the stock, and with the pillars, (usually metal/alloy), to allow for repeatable torque-down of the action mounting screws that does not compress the stock material. For best results, the pillars should be encased/interferance fit with the bedding material that is bonded with the stock. The length of the pillars should be trimmed to the breadth of the action surfaces when mounted in the stock. The length of the screws should be about 10% shorter to allow for screw stretch as they are torqued down. You don't want the screws to bottom out.

Edit; Sorry, there is reference to 'full length pillar bedded', where as, for 'partial length pillar bedded', some smiths would only install partial lengh inserts in the hole of the stock where the screws go through. Full length, would be tubes that touch both the action and floor plate.

-Steve

huntandjeep · « **Reply #20 on:** February 03, 2011, 07:51:05 PM »

thanks for the explenation.

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Author Topic: Glass Bedding (Read 11826 times)

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