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Author Topic: BROADHEAD QUESTION  (Read 7217 times)

Offline akirkland

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BROADHEAD QUESTION
« on: July 08, 2011, 09:57:02 PM »
I'm just curious as to what kind of broadheads you guys are running these days. I shoot a 08 Bowtech Guardian with a 28.5 draw length set at 65 pounds. I've always had good luck with the BEMAN ICS Hunter 340's with 2 inch blazers. So I'm gonna stick with them. Ive used Muzzys and Thunderheads in the past. Ive taken deer with both broadheads but i know there are better products out there. Laugh if ya want but i really liked the Muzzys. Problem is... out of a pack of 6, every one of them weighed 3 to 6 grains shy of the 100gr. they should have weighed. So what do you guys think? I would appreciate any suggestions, info or ideas regarding this subject. Thanks!

Offline Kain

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #1 on: July 08, 2011, 10:10:14 PM »
I am using the shuttle T-lock just becuase SOOO many guys recommend them and I really dont have the time and money to try a bunch of different heads.  I have not stuck an animal but they do fly nice.

Offline JPhelps

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #2 on: July 08, 2011, 10:37:16 PM »
I shoot 100 gr. slick tricks and they work well. 
The price is right and they are tough as nails. 

Offline Sliverslinger

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #3 on: July 08, 2011, 10:39:05 PM »
This is one of those things that could go on forever. Everyone has a particular broadhead and a reason why it is better than others. I think there are a ton of them out there that will do the job and it seems like everything is a tradeoff... Slicktricks, Muzzys, Grizztricks, Copperheads, Montecs, Strikers, Shuttle T's, they all have great qualities. In my opinion the very best broadheads available are the Silver Flames but I certainly don't have the money to shoot them. I've been using G5 Montecs for a while and I think they are a very solid and dependable head. I'm going to try G5 Strikers this year because I think they are quite a bit sharper, though a little less durable than the Montecs, and they have a slightly bigger cutting diameter. I've also considered trying the Slick Tricks and Grizztricks. Really, it boils down to which one your confident in and can place your arrow right in the boiler room. I think the cheapies no-name brand broadheads at Wal-mart would do the the job if placed in the right spot. However, confidence in your equipment is a big factor so let that be your guide in choosing. Best of luck this year!
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Offline RadSav

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #4 on: July 08, 2011, 11:08:09 PM »
There are more Crappy broadheads out there today than ever before.  So your question is really quite a good one.  Muzzy and NAP Thunderheads are popular for a reason - they are a well made product at a very affordable price.  NAP and the four blade Muzzy use a good quality stainless for reasonably sharp blades.  Starting this year Slick Trick will finally be adding a quality stainless blade to their design.  With the new Rage owners I expect that we will see the return of Rocky Mountain.  Whether they will return with the usual Rocky Mountain quality we will have to see.

If not for the shape of the Shuttle-T blade they might never work or become popular.  Of all the blades I have tested to date they are head and shoulders above everyone else in the "Dull" blade category.  Does make them safe to handle as you never need to worry about cutting yourself.

The problem in getting a good answer about a broadhead is most archers have never killed anything and yet commit themselves to passing advise as if they actually have expanded knowledge on the subject.  Others that have seen some success have not experienced enough to fully understand what a good broadhead does or does not.  Figuring instead to grade a broadhead based on whether they recovered the animal and how big the hole is.  An animal shot through the lungs that was recovered two miles away with a five inch hole in it's side is praised to have been shot by "The Worlds Greatest Broadhead Ever!"

In Oregon I stopped to help a guy who was flagging me down out in the woods.  He had no arrows in his quiver and was extremely excited.  He went on and on about how fantastic the broadheads were that he was shooting. "They are absolutely the best"  he exclaimed,  "I have never hit anything in five years with my bow and this year I hit that cow eight times out of eight shots!" 

After he slowed down a bit I asked where the cow was and if he needed any help packing her out.  He said the last time he had seen her she was going over that ridge about a quarter mile from our position.  Three hours later I finally put her out of her misery with a Savora tipped arrow at 80 yards.  You would have thought I might have been able to get closer than that since she had eight of the greatest broadheads in the world in her.

My point is - Some heads are popular for a reason.  They work!  Look for sharpness, flight characteristics and durability.  Beware of experts that claim one thing about a broadhead, but have never seen an animal drop within 20 yards of being shot.  And if you can not cut a piece of paper with it when you take it out of the package don't expect it to do any better with hair, hide and artery walls.

I have never seen an elk wear a cinder block jacket or hide behind a 50 gallon drum.  But, I have seen a well designed broadhead with good sharp blades take the life out of a bull faster than you can say, "Wholly Crap I hit him!"

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Offline Button Nubbs

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #5 on: July 08, 2011, 11:09:45 PM »
#1 magnus stingers or buzzcuts.

#2 shuttle-t
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Offline JLS

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #6 on: July 08, 2011, 11:46:40 PM »
I think if you stick with Magnus, Slick Trick, VPA Terminators or Montecs you really can't go wrong.

One thing to consider is the better quality heads will also spin better and fly better from your bow.
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Offline STIKNSTRINGBOW

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #7 on: July 08, 2011, 11:49:55 PM »
There are way too many options, lots of good ones, I suggest the best you can afford.
In my early Archery days, I heard a lot of hype about all kinds of broadheads, but almost all my friends were using 125gr Thunderheads.
I personnally killed 4 deer and an Elk with them, and they performed almost flawlessly, even used one twice, first on a deer, then an Elk (after replacing blades)
after taking up a recurve, I have used several different glue on broadheads, successfully on both deer and Elk,
from Bear "Geenheads" to Zwicky, as has been stated, good steel, SHARP, and as solid as possible, and SHARP !!, did I mention SHARP ?
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Offline BowBender87

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #8 on: July 09, 2011, 12:41:23 AM »
Up until this year ive shot the G5 montec 100grain.  Ive taken 5 elk with them but have never been impressed with the blood trails.  The only reason ive been able to find the elk ive shot is theyve fallen within sight or ive had to do some hands and knees tracking. This year im switching to the muzzy 4 blade.  They are a much sharper broadhead out of the package, i just hope they are as strong as the montecs.  But regardless of how sharp the blades are...they wont help unless you put em in the pump house.   :twocents:

Offline RadSav

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #9 on: July 09, 2011, 01:34:55 AM »
Up until this year ive shot the G5 montec 100grain.  Ive taken 5 elk with them but have never been impressed with the blood trails.  The only reason ive been able to find the elk ive shot is theyve fallen within sight or ive had to do some hands and knees tracking. This year im switching to the muzzy 4 blade.  They are a much sharper broadhead out of the package, i just hope they are as strong as the montecs.  But regardless of how sharp the blades are...they wont help unless you put em in the pump house.   :twocents:

Good choice!  You should find them plenty durable enough for animals.  The best blade in the Muzzy line without question.  Huge improvement over the three blade models.

I should have a new digital camera for the Leitz metalurgical microscope in a month or so.  Currently I can only take 35mm or Polaroid.  I'll post pictures of blade edges before and after shots through a contant source of resistance like ethafoam or laminated cardboard.  The results will change the way you look at broadhead blades forever.
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Offline GreatWhiteHunter

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #10 on: July 09, 2011, 09:15:54 AM »
Thunderhead 125's. For 3 or 4 years now. I've had killer performance. I tried them because they were on sale at GI Jews, and really liked them. I put one through a does two front shoulders, and it was a full pass through. And was in shootable condition afterwards.

Second choice shuttle T locks. A couple friends use them, and have nothin but good things to say. Even thought of switching this year to em myself. Ive shot a couple target shooting, and they seem to fly great when properly tuned.
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Offline MIKEXRAY

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #11 on: July 09, 2011, 08:50:12 PM »
I also shoot the Beman ics hunters with 2 inch blazers and I have been shooting the G5 Stryker's  in 100 gr.   The Strykers have the replaceable blades as I am not that adept at sharpening.  Mine hit the same as field points as far as impact out to 60 yards and my broadhead shots actually seem more stable throughout the flight.  I've only shot one animal, a mule deer  @ 20 yards. He dropped in sight about 30 yards away.  The blood coming out of his side looked like a garden hose on about half way, broadhead hit far leg bone & held together just fine.  I have only shot a couple of heads and am no expert but with the results I have shooting I'm not going to mess around searching for better.   Mike
« Last Edit: July 09, 2011, 09:31:06 PM by MIKEXRAY »

Offline Crunchy

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #12 on: July 09, 2011, 10:24:10 PM »
I am a slick trick 100 fan.  Been shooting those for the last few years.  I prefer a replaceable blade, with a chisel tip, rather than cut on contact.  I have killed elk with Muzzy and G5 strikers, but didnt like the performance of either. 

Offline Battle Ready

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #13 on: July 09, 2011, 10:26:32 PM »
Ive shot so many different types of broadheads that I feel like I know a of just a few that I feel comfortable taking a life with.

I primarily look at blade sharpness, not just out of the box, but a few days out of the box...that's why fresh blades are a must for me. Spend some time with a microscope and you will see what sharp is, and what polished metal is.

I shot the Shuttle T-loc, and I was called on its sharpness after a well placed shot turned into a much farther recovery than was needed. I was embarrassed that I didn't really look at the broadhead blades well because they came so highly recommended. My friends know I do my very best to make sure the kill is as swift as possible, and that I hold them just as accountable. It was hard eating my words. The next season I shot another deer, nearly identically in location to the deer last year..and it wobbled over within 10 yards...with an outstanding blood trail.....that deer was killed with the Savora Contender.

I don't know why its so important to have broadheads that shoot through cinder block, but I do know that I never heard my bowhunting idols brag about being able to shoot the bricks or barrels...but went on and on about how sharp they got their blades. Ive seen more than one picture of Fred bear with band aids on his finger tips...lol. I myself sport a few scars from sharp blades and a little carelessness.

So, find the broadhead that flys well for your set up...first question your set up..and make sure its all tunes very well. Then question yourself...is it you or you bow...then look at the broadhead if its not flying well. BUT SHARPNESS IS NUMBER ONE...Stay away from any broadhead thats dull, no matter how strong it is. The one thing that is real...critters die much faster when arteries are cut, not so fast when a hole is punched through.

Good luck with finding the broadhead thats best for you..keep em sharp.

Offline BOWHUNTER45

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #14 on: July 09, 2011, 11:02:57 PM »
I have shot Wasp for many years and I will never change ....give the 100gr wasp boss 3 blade a try and watch animals die ...if you hit them right I guarantee Ray charles will follow the blood trail .... :tup: Like someone said above ...most of the animals I have shot died right before my eyes ...... 8)

Offline RadSav

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #15 on: July 10, 2011, 12:22:09 AM »
I have shot Wasp for many years and I will never change ....give the 100gr wasp boss 3 blade a try and watch animals die ...if you hit them right I guarantee Ray charles will follow the blood trail .... :tup: Like someone said above ...most of the animals I have shot died right before my eyes ...... 8)

Had a long talk with the new owners of WASP at the ATA this past year.  Sure hope they can make it.  Their marketing is great, but I got the feeling they've gotten more than they bargained for.  I was in the market to buy WASP too.  However, they didn't want to deal and felt it was worth much, much more than it was worth.  Not sure what these guys paid though I would venture "A LOT"!  Especially since their prices increased almost 100% in 2011.

Maleski like so many others had to switch blade manufacturers a few years before he passed away.  He was an extremely smart man and went to Techni-Edge USA.  Those were some dang good blades for stainless.  Now Techni has sold and is expected to stop producing short run blades (less than 1,000,000 per run).  If that happens I'm not certain those guys will make the right decision.  They are really, really nice folks so I hope they do.  Told them I would run them on the old Savora machine we just finished rebuilding.  Though they did not seem comfortable with that.  Guess I can't blame them as we will re-launch Savora soon.

As I said, Really nice folks!  And a great product.  Keep your fingers crossed they can keep up the Maleski quality.  If not!  Say a prayer or two that they will sell to me - Cheap!  I'd love to have those blade dies.
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Offline Recurve-Elk

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #16 on: July 10, 2011, 01:46:04 PM »
I use magnus basic 2 blades for my recurve.  Can't remember what I use in my compound, but it was three blade with the chisel type tip.  I think they were wasps.

Offline colockumelk

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #17 on: July 10, 2011, 02:15:13 PM »
I use the Slick Trick 125g magnums.  This is one tough blade. On youtube Ive seen them shoot steel barrels and cinder blocks with no damage to the head whatsoever and little damage to the blades. This is because the blades and the head are made of Steel, not Aluminum.  As far as blade sharpness goes these .035" thick steel blades are razor sharp.  I've cut myself more than once.  These are scary sharp.  As far as a wound channel these four bladed 1 1/8" blades make a 33% larger wound channel than a 3 blade broadhead and make just as large of a hole as a 2 blade expandable broadhead.  And out of my well tuned bow broad head tuning took little time.  (Once I figured out the tuning process :)  ) 

So basically with the Slick Trick you have a head that will punch through bone with no problem, with super sharp blades that cut a HUGE wound channel that fly like field tips.  Can't go wrong with these heads.  Of course there's a TON of really great broadheads on the market.  So really you can't go wrong if you buy a Muzzy, G5, Slick Trick, Magnus, Shuttle T, Wasp, etc.  If your bow is well tuned it should do well. 
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Offline dreamunelk

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #18 on: July 10, 2011, 02:19:54 PM »
I have always used thunderhead 100s or 125s.  Never a problem with a good shot.  Don't see any reason to change.  Getting into traditional and plan on using Zwickey Eskimos as I have talked to several people who have killed multiple critters with them and they all say they get the job done.

Offline akirkland

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #19 on: July 11, 2011, 08:17:25 PM »
Thanks for all the info guys. I sure do appreciate it. Probably gonna stick to what has worked for me in the past.

Offline BOWHUNTER45

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #20 on: July 11, 2011, 08:29:30 PM »
I have shot Wasp for many years and I will never change ....give the 100gr wasp boss 3 blade a try and watch animals die ...if you hit them right I guarantee Ray charles will follow the blood trail .... :tup: Like someone said above ...most of the animals I have shot died right before my eyes ...... 8)

Had a long talk with the new owners of WASP at the ATA this past year.  Sure hope they can make it.  Their marketing is great, but I got the feeling they've gotten more than they bargained for.  I was in the market to buy WASP too.  However, they didn't want to deal and felt it was worth much, much more than it was worth.  Not sure what these guys paid though I would venture "A LOT"!  Especially since their prices increased almost 100% in 2011.

Maleski like so many others had to switch blade manufacturers a few years before he passed away.  He was an extremely smart man and went to Techni-Edge USA.  Those were some dang good blades for stainless.  Now Techni has sold and is expected to stop producing short run blades (less than 1,000,000 per run).  If that happens I'm not certain those guys will make the right decision.  They are really, really nice folks so I hope they do.  Told them I would run them on the old Savora machine we just finished rebuilding.  Though they did not seem comfortable with that.  Guess I can't blame them as we will re-launch Savora soon.

As I said, Really nice folks!  And a great product.  Keep your fingers crossed they can keep up the Maleski quality.  If not!  Say a prayer or two that they will sell to me - Cheap!  I'd love to have those blade dies.
All I can say is this .. 30yrs of solid bowhunting and I never ever had a blade break .. bent and twisted yes...but after it was to late for the critter ...I used to shoot the 75 gr wasp ... tiny little hole but will flat out put the hurt on something ..its all about shot placement for sure but I have shot so many animals dead center threw the shoulders and party over quick ... where with those mechanicals FORGET IT ....When you blow a 100 gr wasp threw a elks shoulders at 65 yrds like butter that is making a statement O.K and I have done it a few times with the same results .. BACKSTRAP !!!!!

Offline firedog

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #21 on: July 12, 2011, 08:23:37 AM »
Slick Trick 125 grain, I switched to 125's alst year when I went to Axis nano 300's from 340's to change my FOC. I am shooting an 08 Guardian also. Mine scales out at about 72lbs with a 30" draw.  I was shooting 100 grain heads, both montec and Slick trick with 340 spined axis nanos and they were a little soft for my liking. The stiffer arrows shoot better for me. Lots of great BH's out there, tune your bow and your arrows and start practicing and see what works for you.
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Offline hoyt5199

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #22 on: July 12, 2011, 08:55:56 AM »
I have shot many types of broad heads through out the years and my opinion on the best one is the G5 Montecs. They fly true with field tips and they are tough. Shot 2 deer with them so far and both only ran about 40 yds.

Offline bullcanyon

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #23 on: July 12, 2011, 09:11:48 AM »
Like has been mentioned. Most of what you see are opinions. Some guys have actually seen results first hand. Most just use what the cool guys at the shop shoot. You wont see a lot of difference in lethality on a clean shot from just about any head out there. I don't think any head that is razor sharp and placed in the right spot kills an animal deader than another one. Its going to be more about what bh you can get to drive tacks out of YOUR set up.
I personally shoot slick tricks 125gn. I don't think they are better than say a montec. But they are on the same page for much less. I've killed two bulls with slicks and they did their job. Not any better or worse than another head placed in the same spot. But they allowed me to hit my spot. Other heads like muzzy bh would not fly well for my set up.

I get a kick out of guys boasting that what they have is the holy grail of what's out there.  Ill guarantee you they aren't killing elk any deader than the next guy. Best bow hunter I know runs muzzy bh and has dropped more elk than most people even shoot at. They just work for him. Didn't for me but might for you.
Ill let ya shoot some tricks into foam to see if they'll fly for ya;) save ya some money in the experimenting process you will be going through.

Offline akirkland

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #24 on: July 12, 2011, 09:21:02 AM »
I will be up this week :tup:

Offline colockumelk

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #25 on: July 13, 2011, 10:19:03 AM »
Thanks for all the info guys. I sure do appreciate it. Probably gonna stick to what has worked for me in the past.

 :yeah:  If it aint broke don't fix it.
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Offline GoldTip

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #26 on: July 13, 2011, 10:32:03 AM »
I've shot quite a few animals, deer/elk,bear with the thunderhead 125gr and had good results with them, but always wanted a cut on contact head, and am horrible at sharpening anything.  About 4 years ago I switched to the steel Sonic COC 125gr replaceable head and have never looked back.  2 elk, half a dozen deer have fallen with excellent blood trails, even with a couple not so excellent hits.  A little difficult to get put together properly, but a very solid head even when hitting heavy bone.  Fly great and are plenty sharp out of the box.
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Offline rebal69972

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #27 on: July 13, 2011, 03:39:06 PM »
i shoot 90 grain 4 blade muzzy's and have had very good luck with them over the years many many deer and turkeys have fallen to them. i have been concerened about such a light weight head on elk and bear but they worked really well for w/t. its mostly shot placement.
my wife uses montec g5's she hasn't killed anything yet but they came very highly recommended for her lighter weight bow. but i feel like asking which broadhead is better is like asking about which bullet is better. every bow shoots alittle different and you have to find out which 1 shoot better out of your set up the only deference is broadheads are alittle more expensive to try out. but once you find what works for you and your set up stick with it. 
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Offline ribka

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Re: BROADHEAD QUESTION
« Reply #28 on: July 16, 2011, 04:48:59 PM »
Any good coc head like muzzy Phantoms, magnus stingers, zwikies. Thunderheads, snuffer and muzzies have been around a long time and are proven. All are high quality, sharp, durable and fly well.

Here is a coc recovered from far side shoulder from cow elk last year. Busted thru near and far side ribs then into the shoulder. Elk ribs are pretty tough as you know. Still sharp and elk died after running a short distance.

 


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That "lake taste" in freshwater fish by Sandberm
[Today at 09:17:33 AM]


Bear Scratch on Tree by Okanagan
[Today at 09:16:44 AM]


Game trails to nowhere? by Okanagan
[Today at 08:52:50 AM]


90's Yamaha no telltale? by Crunchy
[Today at 08:40:12 AM]


Sauk Unit Youth Elk Tips by Practical Approach
[Today at 08:17:14 AM]


E scouting for bears by hunter399
[Today at 08:04:13 AM]


RDS Scope ring height by blackpowderhunter
[Today at 06:05:07 AM]


Rimrock Bull: Modern by bowguy
[Today at 05:59:49 AM]


No trespassing, hunting, fishing signs posted along Skykomish river by Night goat
[Today at 04:28:57 AM]


Archery elk gear, 2025. by blackveltbowhunter
[Yesterday at 09:36:02 PM]


Grayback Youth Hunt by Big6bull
[Yesterday at 08:20:59 PM]


Pocket Carry by fly-by
[Yesterday at 06:35:19 PM]


Early Huckleberry Bull Moose tag drawn! by HillHound
[Yesterday at 05:36:47 PM]


SWAKANE EWE by vandeman17
[Yesterday at 02:55:45 PM]


49 degrees north late Moose tag by Buzzsaw461
[Yesterday at 02:44:10 PM]


Video highlighting and discussing WDFW corruption by Boss .300 winmag
[Yesterday at 01:42:41 PM]


Tease 'l' by kellama2001
[Yesterday at 01:23:41 PM]


What barrel length 24”, 26” or 28” by Call em in
[Yesterday at 12:47:43 PM]


PROOF RESEARCH CLOSEOUT by BigJs Outdoor Store
[Yesterday at 12:35:23 PM]

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