With Eyes Closed

[total_intent2kill]

So I didnt want to take over the other guys thread with my next question. . .so here I am. . . I am new to bow hunting and my husband is a great help but I think I want to expand the knowledge I have access too. I just learned some good tips on how to practice for not "Punching The Release".
My question is this. . .I have a problem with closing my eyes when I pull the trigger. I do it almost everytime (I have only shot a few times). Any recomendations for tips to not do that? Or is it simple just dont close um. Just wondering what worked for other people (if of course you had this issue).
Also it seems when I do release the string my bow almost "jolts" forward. . .Why does it do that?

I think I am really showing how green I am at this so please bear with me as I try to learn. I really want to learn to hunt bow, do to it seems that hunting would be on such a different level (more of a balanced playing feild if you will, between me and the animal) compared to hunting with my .308.

Thank you ahead of time.

[bonneylakebowman]

try shooting at a blank target bail with no aiming point on it and focus on your form and fallow through on the shot.  Do this for a week and you should be good to go.  I tried this and it worked great for me.

[bloodhound]

get a big target and stand close, aim, then pull your face away and release. slowly get your string closer to your face every time till you can have the string against your face and nose without closing your eyes. im assuming that your doing it because your scared of the bow and having the string next to your face. the more you shoot the more comfortable you will be with what the bow is doing. so practice practice practice!!!!!

[Button Nubbs]

As far as the bow jolting forward, you might be on the right track there, not sure what you mean by jolting though. You want the bow to jump out of your hand upon release. You don't want to grab the bow as soon as you pull the "trigger", this is what a wrist sling is for.

[total_intent2kill]

As far as the bow jolting forward, you might be on the right track there, not sure what you mean by jolting though. You want the bow to jump out of your hand upon release. You don't want to grab the bow as soon as you pull the "trigger", this is what a wrist sling is for.

What I mean by jolt is it feels like my arm is well this is going to take a second:

When I hold the bow up (if I am corret) I am not suposed to "grip" it I am needing to let it "rest" for lack of a better word on the flat part of my palm. When I do that, and I release my string it seems like. . .well hehe. . .now it kinda makes sense. It seems like it is flying out of my hands but if I have not pressure on it (from pulling back) then duh. 

Thank you that makes sense now! LOL!

[total_intent2kill]

get a big target and stand close, aim, then pull your face away and release. slowly get your string closer to your face every time till you can have the string against your face and nose without closing your eyes. im assuming that your doing it because your scared of the bow and having the string next to your face. the more you shoot the more comfortable you will be with what the bow is doing. so practice practice practice!!!!!

I will try that. I think that may help. I am not sure what it is that seems to make me close them but. . I do. I know that I wont get hurt by the bow (unles I "bow" in my arm). I dont know why I close my eyes. But that is a good idea I will try that. Thank you! 

[halflife65]

Just concentrate on the shot and not whether or not your eyes are closed.  Maybe close your eyes and just shoot at a target without worrying about aiming.  A couple of shots and you'll realize you can't/won't get hurt and the reflexive eye closing might be easier to deal with.

Admittedly, I did one really, really dumb thing when I did this (I was concentrating on shooting form not so much a problem with my eyes closing - but same difference).  It was in the middle of winter and I was in the garage.  I didn't elevate the target to a natural aiming point so had to point down hill a little at it to do the close my eyes trick.  I pulled the trigger and it sounded like a .22 went off.  I missed over the top of the target (from about 3 feet) but, fortunately, the arrow hit a 2X6 I had leaning against the wall instead of sticking in the sheetrock.  It's probably a good thing my eyes were closed because the nock shot off.  My wife came out to find out what happened just as I was trying to unscrew the arrow from the field tip that was stuck in the board.  Yeah, don't do that.  Scared the sh*t out of me.  Plus I had to make up some BS excuse so my wife wouldn't ground me from shooting the bow in the garage.

Probably shouldn't have told you that...but I thought it was funny in a "Hey, hold my beer! I'm going for the Darwin Award!" kind of way.

[total_intent2kill]

LOL! That was funny and you are right if it were me I would have told you to go out and shoot in the snow. 

[BLKBEARKLR]

one thing that I had my wife do, is aim above the target walk your point of aim down and let go when it is there. If you are concentrating on the point of aim like that, you will hardly close your eyes. And I agree you need a wrist sling.

Joe

[bloodhound]

im kinda curious what kind of bow you have, a picture of your setup would be nice. there may be some things you can do to your bow to make it so it doesnt want to shock out of your hand.

[total_intent2kill]

Sorry will post pictures soon have to figure this out first. . .. . first timer on the pictures.

[total_intent2kill]

So its a Diamond Razor Edge, which is my starter bow. Once I get the hang of it I am hoping to buy a Hoyt. But we will see.

[total_intent2kill]

True Fire Release. And Truglo Sights

[bloodhound]

you could change to a 7 in s coil stabilizer, put on some limsavers, and a string stop add on, those who help a ton and make your bow alot quieter. the stabilizer and limbsavers would be only like 40 bucks and the string stopper would be around 70 or so think 

[total_intent2kill]

Thanks for the info! I will look into that stuff and start saving up my spending money!!

[bloodhound]

stabilizer is 25, limbsavers are 20, and the string stop/ string decelerator is 40 bucks 85 plus tax, and it should make the bow much nicer to shoot.

[Button Nubbs]

Since you didn't ask here's my if you get a string stopper and string scilencers do not waste your $ on a vibration reducing stabilizer such as the limbsaver. It won't do anything to help. There are 2 different worlds of stabilizers. 1) the vibration reduction kind 2) the stabilizing kind. Unless you bow is an absolute rattletrap the vibration reduction kind is worthless. Look at b-stinger stokerized smooth stability stabilizers ect. They will actually make your bow hold better on target and fight torque resulting in better more consistent shooting. Yes they are more expensive but will help you tremendously. As long as you open your eyes.

[total_intent2kill]

Here is a silly question. . . my husband set my bow up so sorry that it is really dumb. What is the weird coil thing on my bow? And what does it do? Is that not a stablizer? I kinda thought it was. . . or maybe is that not the right kind? Just wondering. . . now that you started I am going to pick you brains. . .hope you dont mind.

[bloodhound]

yah thats the stabilizer, it reduces shock in the bow. the one you have is really short and limbsaver make the same one in a much longer version that will help stabilize your bow more and reduce shock more. so it doesnt feel like it wants to jump out of your hand as much.

[bloodhound]

Since you didn't ask here's my if you get a string stopper and string scilencers do not waste your $ on a vibration reducing stabilizer such as the limbsaver. It won't do anything to help. There are 2 different worlds of stabilizers. 1) the vibration reduction kind 2) the stabilizing kind. Unless you bow is an absolute rattletrap the vibration reduction kind is worthless. Look at b-stinger stokerized smooth stability stabilizers ect. They will actually make your bow hold better on target and fight torque resulting in better more consistent shooting. Yes they are more expensive but will help you tremendously. As long as you open your eyes.

she was complaining about it having to much shock in her hand thats why i recommended going to 7in limbsaver stabilizer

[total_intent2kill]

yah thats the stabilizer, it reduces shock in the bow. the one you have is really short and limbsaver make the same one in a much longer version that will help stabilize your bow more and reduce shock more. so it doesnt feel like it wants to jump out of your hand as much.

Okay thank you for clarifing!

[total_intent2kill]

Are the wisker biskets any good? I am not sure if I am likeing it. . . what do you recomend bloodhound?

[Button Nubbs]

it is a stabilizer. theres really no "right and wrong" kind. just good and bad. j/k here is a link to the one i use. it may be a little extreme for some but put 100 shots through your bow with one of these and i guarentee you wont go back to the vibration reduction kind.

http://www.smoothstability.com/HuntingStabs.htm

the wisker bisuit is a great beginner rest but you will soon want to go to a fall away. yes archery is expensive!

[Button Nubbs]

Since you didn't ask here's my if you get a string stopper and string scilencers do not waste your $ on a vibration reducing stabilizer such as the limbsaver. It won't do anything to help. There are 2 different worlds of stabilizers. 1) the vibration reduction kind 2) the stabilizing kind. Unless you bow is an absolute rattletrap the vibration reduction kind is worthless. Look at b-stinger stokerized smooth stability stabilizers ect. They will actually make your bow hold better on target and fight torque resulting in better more consistent shooting. Yes they are more expensive but will help you tremendously. As long as you open your eyes.

she was complaining about it having to much shock in her hand thats why i recommended going to 7in limbsaver stabilizer

i figured she meant jumping out of her hand not shocking her hand.

[Button Nubbs]

Are the wisker biskets any good? I am not sure if I am likeing it. . . what do you recomend bloodhound?

QAD!

[bloodhound]

drop away rest by far, hands down, no substitute. ive shot wisker biskets and out past 40 yards they tend to loose accuracy faster then any other rest out there. they are terrible for learning with because if you torque your bow at release they are least forgiving rest out there. you have to have perfect form to shoot them consistently well. they destroy your fletchings and youll have to have your arrows fixed often.  switching to a drop away will fix tons of problems fo a newbee and youll feel much more confident when shooting. and unless your hunting in a tree stand there is no reason for you to have a wisker bisket.

[total_intent2kill]

it is a stabilizer. theres really no "right and wrong" kind. just good and bad. j/k here is a link to the one i use. it may be a little extreme for some but put 100 shots through your bow with one of these and i guarentee you wont go back to the vibration reduction kind.

http://www.smoothstability.com/HuntingStabs.htm

the wisker bisuit is a great beginner rest but you will soon want to go to a fall away. yes archery is expensive!

Yeah I already knew that archery is expensive. . . My husband "hunts" archery. . .he is more of a muzzy hunter I think though but you would have to ask him. He is also pretty new at the archery thing but he is comfortable hunting with his bow. . . I am most deff. not.

I really like the opinions on the diffrences between the two rests. . .With me just because I am just learning I go by looks and I dont like the wisker whatever. . .its ugly. But! I will be using it for awhile unitl I am a pro on some hunting show! LOL! 

[total_intent2kill]

Humm. . . .maybe I will switch sooner than I thought!

[DBZona]

Are the wisker biskets any good? I am not sure if I am likeing it. . . what do you recomend bloodhound?

NO!  Didn't I already tell you this?   Especially in the winter, they are loud!

[bloodhound]

heres my bow with whats on it, im purely a wetside archery hunter. my quiver is on my pack to make my bow lighter and more maneuverable.

[Button Nubbs]

Good lookin bow. crx? 32 or 35?

[bloodhound]

32!!

[bloodhound]

its by far the quietest bow i have ever shot or heard. super smooth and absolutely shock free. i'm super happy with it. it was between that and the z7 and i just don't like how the z7 is so top heavy and how the grip feels. but the mathews is a great bow nothin against it just personal preference

[Button Nubbs]

It ok you can let the mathews hate out I'm a hoyt guy too!

[bloodhound]

get serious get hoyt!!

[Todd_ID]

Some good advice thrown out here for you.  My thoughts on it are that what you have is way better than most of us started with years ago, and it'll work for you just fine until you decide you WANT to change something.  As for the hand shock that you're talking about, I think time and repetition will get you more in tune with what the shot sequence feels like, and you'll be better able to feel the small differences the guys are talking about when you do decide to try other equipment.  The wrist sling is there simply as a "feel good" aid to reassure yourself that you are not going to drop that expensive piece of equipment if you don't put a death grip on it as the shot goes off; you can prove this to yourself by shooting 4 or 5 shots at 5 yards without holding on at all: let the bow jump out of your hand and let the wrist strap catch it.  That'll show you the extent of how bad it can get in a worst case scenario.  You'll find that it's a relatively tame experience, and you'll start gripping the bow more consistently with less hand-pressure-changes as the arrow is leaving, and that will lead to much better and more consistent shooting.

As for the eye closing, I would focus your first few practice sessions on that alone and not worrying about accuracy at all.  The blank bale practice the guys are talking about is pretty much essential in curing form problems like that.  You can try moving your anchor point a little so the string hits your face in a different spot if you need to, but I think your case is needing more repetitions rather than changes just to get used to the whole concept of the shot.

One thing about your practice sessions that might help a bunch is to try to develop a shot sequence that you repeat every shot exactly the same.  You'll have to think the words in your head the first 100 shots over a week, but your subconscious mind will pick it up to where you don't think about it any more.  A good sequence to start with would be: stance, grip, clip on release, finger off trigger, draw, anchor, settle in, finger on trigger, aim, slow squeeze.  Archery is all about doing a few things exactly the same every time.

Keep on asking questions: there's a ton of knowledge locked in this forum, and only questions can get it pried out.

[sebek556]

closing your eyes is typically shot anticipation, to ease this I trick I used to have soldiers do which seem to work well is distraction, if you have a mouth guard for sports or anything( they are like 5 bucks if not) put it in your mouth when shooting(bonus it also helps to work on controlling  breathing and breathing properly), so for bow application draw your bow, aim, then bite down hard on the mouth guard and slowly press trigger, the shot should suprise you. this does not work for everyone but did work on allot of the new soldiers I worked with for rifles.

[buckfvr]

Your bow is somewhere between reflex and parallel limb design, but closer to reflex. Reflex limbs energy at release is generated forward, thus resulting in the forward motion of the bow, or the juming out of your hand.  A parallel limb design, the energy is generated in the up and down directions, the limbs actually canceling each other out, and there for no jumping out of the hand, as there is no forward energy release. 

No amount of vibration dampening products will change your bows inherent  design nuances.  Going to a parallel limb design will give you the dead in the hand shot.  Vibration dampening products are made to screw into your stabilizer mounting hole, as are actual stabilizers.  One dampens vibration for say,  a  hunting bow.  The stabilizer actually changes the balance of a bow and  depending on design, deaden the shot.  If noise and vibration is your concern,  Id us Limbsaver products, and I do on my hunting bows....for other types of shooting, I use true stabilizers, or hybrids, actual products with vibration dampening qualities and added weight.   As with most things in archery/bow hunting, it usually breaks down to individual preference and experience.  Try as much stuff as you can, but decide for yourself what you like....alot of opinions here, and thats all mine is too.  Good luck,  R

[JLS]

I put a Norway String Tamer on my Mathews Q2.  It made a huge difference in getting rid of hand shock (which there was very little before, none now).  Cost me about $40 including shipping.

[muley210]

Try shooting with both eyes open.

[total_intent2kill]

Wow Muley210 I dont know what I would do with out your help!  Thank you all for the advise.
I am hoping to go shooting with my hubby soon. . .and I will let you know how it turns out. We were going to shoot with DBzona last weekend but plans fell through. . . But Thank you again alot! If I have any other questions I will be sure to ask!