Author Topic: My bow all of a sudden sucks. (Read 12602 times)

MIKEXRAY · « **on:** June 23, 2008, 08:05:51 PM »

Took my bow to sportsmans warehouse and got a new string last week and added sts and a stabilizer. The bow has been shooting great (best ever) for a week and now today it all went to crap. My arrow is fish tailing bad, back end goes small right @ 20 yards, hard left @ 30 then straightens out by target. Shot a broad head and it does three revolutions getting bigger circles all the way to the target. Barely hits my three bale target at top right corner. Misses center by 3 ft. Took it back to sportsman this afternoon and all over the place during paper tuning. They gave up and said they didn't know. My bow is a five year old hoyt and always shot field tips and broad heads like a dart. Any ideas ? I'm sick over this, should of just left it alone. I'm going to go back tomorrow and leave it with them demand it gets fixed.

jackelope · « **Reply #1 on:** June 23, 2008, 08:10:00 PM »

i was shooting the blazer vanes off of my arrows because my fall away rest was wore out and the vanes were hitting the rest on the way out because it wasn't falling away fast enough. got a new trophy taker pronghorn and have shot about 200 arrows and no issues. maybe your arrow is hitting the rest on the way out?

bankwalker · « **Reply #2 on:** June 23, 2008, 08:13:44 PM »

make them check the string length...i bet they have the wrong length string on there. and make sure the rest and nock are level.

i had nock point put a new string on my parker last season and they put one on that was to long. and my bow shot wierd for a couple days, then i realized what happened and had them fix it.

usually a couple twist in the string will make a difference. i know i had my string on my black ice come off the other day. and it took about 6 trys before i finaly gor the twist right and now it shoots great again.

MuleySniper · « **Reply #3 on:** June 23, 2008, 08:15:34 PM »

How many pounds are you shooting and what is your arrow weight? When I got my new Mathews, I was having the same problem. Me and one of the guys at Rainier Archery spent like an hour trying all sorts of stuff. We then realized my arrows were to light. Went up a size in carbons and bingo.
MS

MIKEXRAY · « **Reply #4 on:** June 23, 2008, 08:22:12 PM »

Shooting the same rest, arrows, and poundage. Just got a new string, added stabilizer and sts. Every thing looks ok, nothing rubbing that I can see. Shooting 64# and using same ics 400 arrows. All of a sudden today arrows wobble bad. Banwalker what do you mean twist the string? I've never heard of having to twist the string. My string was 6 years old and only a little frayed so I replaced it. My broad head shot is fricken laughable. Cork screws all the way and gets bigger as it goes. I'll take it back tomorrow and have them check string length ETC. Must be something to do with string.

jackelope · « **Reply #5 on:** June 23, 2008, 08:27:43 PM »

i'm a total newbie but shouldn't you be shooting 340's at 64# ??

it is not making sense to me that the string is your problem, only because it was shooting fine a couple days ago with the same string twisted the same way, etc.

any new noise at the shot it is making?

put some paint or nail polish on your vanes and shoot it, then look at your bow/rest/etc and see if it transferred any paint from contact.

bowhuntin · « **Reply #6 on:** June 23, 2008, 08:27:53 PM »

I think muleysniper may be correct. You might have the wrong spined arrow for your set up. Or something to do with your rest, maybe your nock moved?

I would suggest taking it to a proshop other than sportsmens warehouse. Rainer Archery is a good one and so is Northwest. Both are in Puyallup. Northwest(Skookum) is off of shaw road and Rainer moved out to Graham, but are right off of Meridian, both are hoyt dealers and very knowledgeable. Not to bad of a drive to either probably take you thirty minutes from federal way.

Timberstalker · « **Reply #7 on:** June 23, 2008, 09:01:58 PM »

timing or string length is where I would start. Hard for me to tell with out knowing if it is 1 cam or two cam bow. Also could be that the new Nock point/ D loop is too high or low. That is where I would Start. I haveworked on hundreds of bows and that is where I would look.

archery288 · « **Reply #8 on:** June 23, 2008, 09:16:12 PM »

First off look the whole bow over and inspect the limbs. I have seen a few times where a limb will get weak and splinter a hair and cause the bow to be out of whack because it's not completely equal. Then check your nock point and then check your axle to axle on both sides, and then your brace height and then your tiller... Do all that before you start adjusting stuff! Then if one of those is out of whack, fix it and try shooting again and if it continues start looking at your rest and make sure your bow is paper tuned still... Sometimes after a little string stretch things can change and get a little out of whack. If none of those are the case I'd take it to your nearest pro shop and have them take a look at it...

DeKuma · « **Reply #9 on:** June 23, 2008, 09:19:03 PM »

400's are the minimum for your Hoyt. I shot 340s with the same bow as I told you before.
I would say you cam timing is off a little or you are getting contact on your rest. Put baby powder on your rest and shoot and se if the arrow is striking and wiping it off. I am having some of the saem issues as you, but not near as bad. I am getting contact with my ret and FOBs, causing a spiraling to the target. Small, but noticeable.

I would strongly suggest taking it to the Nock Point or other pro shop. Nothing against the guys at sportsmans, but I have had much better luck with the Nock.

If you can find a way to get in there tomorrow around 4, I can also be there to help you work through it. Bill should have you up and running again in no time. They are a Hoyt Pro dealer so he knows Hoyts in and out.

archery288 · « **Reply #10 on:** June 23, 2008, 09:21:59 PM »

400 spine shafts will work at the poundage just depending upon arrow length. My arrows are 27" long and are 400's and I shoot 66 lbs out of my Guardian and they are perfect bullet holes all day long!

One thing about the broadheads.......... Every bow is different and it is ever so crucial that your form is perfect because they fly completely different than a field tip. Some bows may shoot the broadhead in the same spot and others may be a foot or two off at even 20 yards! I have taken 4 different broadheads and shot them out of my bow at the same time on the exact same arrow setup and one will be a foot to the left and one a foot to the right another one low and one in the middle. I then pick the one that is the most accruate and keep stepping back to longer yardages and see if it continues to be accurate... Haven't ever had any problems with the G5 Montec broadhead - best broadhead I have ever used and definetly the most accurate!! Just my

(and not saying you have bad form by any means, just saying the facts)

DeKuma · « **Reply #11 on:** June 23, 2008, 09:27:09 PM »

I have considered going to 400s, from the 340 but worry about weight.

Did you also get these results with field points? Erradict flight and spirals? The Magnatec I had would shoot this way only when it was out of time or getting contact, though I never had any issues with the only broadheads I shot out of it............

archery288 · « **Reply #12 on:** June 23, 2008, 09:39:36 PM »

Nope never had any problems with the field tips! Thats why I suggested paper tuning and making sure your dead on there. I am one of the most anal people out there when it comes to everything being dead on with a bow. Especially my bow - I make sure the timing is absolutely 100% perfect, every measurement is done correctly and exactly on the money and then I make sure that it shoots a perfect hole and I know it will be on with a broadhead. And it hasn't proven me wrong yet that all my hard work and attentivenss pays off!

MIKEXRAY · « **Reply #13 on:** June 24, 2008, 06:02:11 AM »

Thanks fo all of your ideas. From what I read here and online it does seem like a spine weight arrow issue but I've been shooting darts for five years with my 400s. I decided to go back to sportsmans this am and look it over again a little slower. I did try different arrows 340s and the dude shot my bow and we could never even get close to paper tune. Ass end of arrow kicking left hard. Some arrows seemed a little better but never papered worth beans. My broadheads ( thunderhead 125 ) always flew same as field tips. If I don't get any results will take it to a shop this afternoon. Thanks for the advice. One good point is don't wait until the saturday befow elk season to change a string or do maintenance, I'd be pissed if the season opened today. Thanks again.

DeKuma · « **Reply #14 on:** June 24, 2008, 06:19:36 AM »

It is my understanding that a spine issue will affect the entire arrow, not just cause the tail to kick one way or the other. Sounds more like timing or contact.........?

I shoot 340s at 66# out of my Bengal, and I shot 340 at 62# out of my Hoyt. Have never shot 400s, though that is what the spine charts say I should be shooting for my DL or 28". I went to 340s to get more GPI in my arrows.

bucklucky · « **Reply #15 on:** June 24, 2008, 07:14:50 AM »

Take it to a PRO SHOP. They will know what to do.

archery288 · « **Reply #16 on:** June 24, 2008, 07:47:20 AM »

I can see your point with going for the GPI with a 340. That is why I shoot A/C superslims out of a 400 spine... They weigh 9.7 GPI. Once those are gone I'll go with the Full Metal Jacket for weight.

DeKuma · « **Reply #17 on:** June 24, 2008, 07:59:00 AM »

might have to give those a try. I am in the market for new arrows anyway.

MIKEXRAY · « **Reply #18 on:** June 26, 2008, 03:09:25 PM »

I didn't go back to Sportsmans, just took it out to Rainer archery today since I was headed that way anyway. Seemed like they could figure it out. Left it for a couple of days to get tuned. Whole situation sucked big time, will be nice to get it back shooting darts again. Should of taken it to a Pro shop in the first place ! Sportsman was just so close and I didn't think changing the string and cables would screw it up. live and learn

DeKuma · « **Reply #19 on:** June 27, 2008, 07:57:25 AM »

Pro Shops are not always convenient, that is for sure, but they make up for it in knowledge and skills.

I love Sportsmans, but not so much for working on my bow, for that, I always take it to the Por shop I bought it from, the Nock Point, in this case. I have always left happy, and if I find something not right later, Bill has always been right on top of it to make sure I am happy.

Let us know how it goes!

MIKEXRAY · « **Reply #20 on:** June 27, 2008, 04:13:49 PM »

Ranier Archery called and said my bow was ready. He said one of my cables was shorter than the other end ? Said they evened them up & paper tuned right up. Going in Saturday am to shoot and tune to me. I learned my lesson on this one and will deal with Pro shop only from now on. Dude at Sportsman gave up and said take it else where, all he did was move rest & try other arrows. Couldn't go beyond that for technical. I never realized replacing strings could screw things up so bad. Ranier said getting pretty busy so don't wait ! Thanks for the advice, I was pissed when I opened post. Mike

DeKuma · « **Reply #21 on:** June 27, 2008, 08:27:46 PM »

Glad it sounds like it is squared away.
Let us know how it shoots tomorrow.

MIKEXRAY · « **Reply #22 on:** June 30, 2008, 01:06:39 PM »

Picked up my bow from ranier, paper shot it while there and was very surprised how much shooting form plays into a good shot. I had no idea ! If I gripped my bow handle to tight or not good follow through my paper shots sucked. Joe the pro punched perfect holes each time, I had to really work at getting it right. Shot it at home and dialing in, shooting straight again. They pretty much worked the whole thing over, cable length, nock point, etc. Got to hot after an hour and groups opened up so i quit until tonight.

DeKuma · « **Reply #23 on:** June 30, 2008, 01:18:43 PM »

Good deal!
I hear ya on the form. I used to shoot open handed, but found I was having issues. My Pro Shop had me put just the very tips of my fingers on the front of the riser and that has helped my consistency.

I agree on the heat. I bought a fletching jig and vane/wraps on Sat. Fletched up some arrows and was going to tune and shoot yesterday. The arrows required no tuning as they shot perfect right off the bat. Glad too, after about a half hour out there it was too damn hot to keep shooting. Will wait until tonight when the sun sets a little to shoot some more.

Just got a half dozen Beman Realtree MFX to try out. Need to go pick up some points to fit them though. Think they are 9/32nds. Trying them in 400 spine as opposed to the 340 I usually shoot.

bucklucky · « **Reply #24 on:** June 30, 2008, 11:32:58 PM »

Glad to hear you went to a pro shop, and they got it fixed up for ya!

ICEMAN · « **Reply #25 on:** July 01, 2008, 10:31:03 PM »

I am not even a bowhunter, and enjoyed this thread. Interesting.

MIKEXRAY · « **Reply #26 on:** July 02, 2008, 05:44:56 AM »

Shooting good groups & arrows shooting straight. Probably going to get some better arrows Like DeKuma. My ICS are .006 and I was looking at a lot of sets .001 tolerance. Also Joe said better broadheads nowadays, he suggested shorter heads for better broadhead flights. Mine do get a little drift, not as tight as fields. ( thunder 100s). Thanks again for all the help, will always go to a pro shop from now on.

DeKuma · « **Reply #27 on:** July 02, 2008, 07:13:24 AM »

I am not all that sure that for bowhunting you need to go to .001. .006 should be okay, .003 even better, but the cost jump to go to .001 does not seem worth it for the average archer. Unless you are competing and are really good, you would most likely never know the difference between them.

As for arrows, I like the new Beman MFX. Shot them yesterday for the first time. This is the result of shots 1 and 2.

strutnrut · « **Reply #28 on:** July 19, 2008, 10:27:50 PM »

Check your flecthing it may be hitting your shelf just sprinkle some powder on there and your nock point. I shot recurve for awhile had the same problem went to a heavier broad head that fixed the problem shot a doe at 35yds broad heads would be alot cheaper than arrows :

PA BEN · « **Reply #29 on:** July 20, 2008, 08:02:26 AM »

timing or string length. New strings well stretch and throw off your timing. Check cam timing, nock point with rest, and tiller. New strings well shoot good until they stretch. Also as you shoot you get stronger and your form and or anchor point can change also.

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